Ok, I am stumped on this one. I have had loose steering for a while especially when turning the wheel right so decided to rebuild the front end.


ES LCA bushings
ES sway bar bushings
Kyb gr2 struts
Moog ball joints
Moog Inner and outer tie rods
Moog Top hat/ bearing
Moog Endlinks
DIY subframe collars
Switched driver and passenger side tires.

Went and got it aligned to find the steering feel exactly the same, very frustrating. I didn't suspect the rack and still don't because when stationary and turning the wheel to the right, I have play in that motion and it feels loose, while turning to the left feels better. I am assuming if it's the rack both motions will feel the same.

I will try putting the winters on the front and see if that helps but don't suspect it will. I am really at a loss now and very unhappy since all that effort and money didn't change the problem.

 

you didn't install new hubs...that's your problem....have a press? yes, then R&R them yourself.

 

ANY HUMMING OR GRINDING WHILE ROLLING? = BEARINGS/HUBS

 

No noises when rolling, however I do remember if I step on it in the snow while turning I used to hear some grinding noises from what I believe is the right side...

The more I think about it the more the hub makes sense, but can a hub wear out causing that looseness vs just the bearing wearing out?

I seem to have accidentally nicked one the the ABS sensors anyway when doing the job so I am thinking of grabbing a knuckle with sensor from the wrecker and changing the bearing / hub and just bolt on the new parts.

Are the knuckles all the same for the 2000 to 2003 years? I know I would still need to grab a 6 speed for a compatible ABS system.

 

you can have a bad hub bearing without a grinding sound. If your bad hub has simply worn down the ball bearings it will just be loose with minimum grinding sound. If your bad hub has a broken ball bearing you will have a loose hub and grinding, especially when turning.

If 1 of your two hubs fails, you will have a continuous loose feeling in the steering wheel...mainly b/c what is trying to hold the wheel in place with a bad hub would be your strut, lower ball joint, and steering tie rod...nothing holding the wheel FIRMLY in it's place.

to check your hubs, lift the front end then push and pull on the top of the tire...if you have ANY play your hub is bad! If you decide to replace it use a ONE PIECE HUB BEARING that comes sealed from the manufacturer, it is also a good idea to get a new hub. Yes, you MUST remove the entire spindle to install a new hub bearing and hub.

 

Thanks 00Lightsout, this makes sense. Will test for it tomorrow when I am working on the car.

I will try to get a whole knuckle with sensor from the wrecker and press in a new bearing and new hub then as that would make the most sense.

Do you know if the knuckle's and hubs are different between 5th gen years or manual/auto? I know the manual has a different ABS sensor

 

cool!! I'll check back tomorrow for your posts. Sounds like you know exactly what you are doing

 

Here is another easy way to check for wheel bearing problems:
Raise the wheel, grab the strut spring with your bare hand while spinning the wheel with the other. If you feel any roughness/grinding at the spring, your bearing is shot. For the sake of it, do the same with the other wheel to feel the difference.

 

While you're at it check your strut mount bearings

 

Sorry for the delay reporting back , between rain and those horrible rear strut top hat bolts it took me a while to do this test.

Anyway I couldn't feel any play in the hubs, nor any vibration while rotating the tires and holding the spring. The strut mount bearings are new.

My plan of action now is to have a friend turn the steering while I am under the car and see how everything is moving and "drive" the front wheels while off the ground at higher speed while holding the spring for vibration.

Will update once it's done.