If you plan on doing a turbo build in the future I would strongly recommend 3". Its up to you though. Not trying to disrespect the choice, but with a 3.5L engine 3" will get you more power. If you are boosting any PSI....I would get a 3" because it will flow better. Alot of people on here have had problems boosting with 2.5" exhausts getting over a certain power level. 3" really opens things up the 3.5L the thing flows LOTS of air....now if you had a 2.0L 4 cylinder we would not be recommending a 3" but a 3.5L V6 is a totally different beast. If you just want a acool exhaust and dont really care about power then get the 2.5" Anyway....gonna be nice.

 

Since your car is a lightly modded daily driver, the 2.5" exhaust shouldn't be a problem. The gains of going from a 2.5" vs. 3" would (probably) be minimal. Now when you get into headers, computer tuning, bop's, ssim's, Flux capacitor's, etc., then I can see the 3" being more beneficial, since there have been several proven gains.

 

Sound doesn't equal performance. True Story.

He can run a 2.5" boosted. Everyone doesn't have to get a 3" if they don't want to, just let the guy do what he wants for what he feels is applicable to what he's doing with the car.

 

Exactly, only thing I have aside from the exhaust right now would be an Injen CAI on the way from a member over on Nico, that's it other than regular maintenance.

To the guy mentioning 3" being better for boost, I already know this and I've stated it already as well (beyond around 9psi that is). I don't plan on boosting this car for at least another year, if I do it at all. This isn't a Honda and bigger isn't ALWAYS better. I'm beginning to lose faith in the integrity of this site lol

Thanks 904 and Maxima King, good to know not everyone is on the 3" bandwagon. Here is a statement straight from Greg Childs (BRM) on the subject:

"If you had a larger-displacement engine, or planned on more than 1 bar (14psi) of boost, then I'd say go 3". Otherwise, you're wasting money. weight, and ground clearance. It's that simple. Maxima guys seem to have this notion that their car is a large-displacement engine, and I'm not sure where they got that idea. I run 2.5" on a 400-hp KA-T, as well as my wife's RB25, and it performs amazingly well. We've been building these for 10+ years, and while 3" is great for monster boost and cars that need a lot of top-end, 2.5" is MORE than sufficient for a 3.5-liter engine (remember, that's substantially larger than stock).

It's a never-ending debate, but the added weight will negate the 2 or 3hp advantage of a 3" system (they don't think that far ahead)."


On that note, carry on! lol

 

No thanks to me lol, I said congrats on your exhaust, your cash your car, I like the 3" but 2.5 is cool also, Congrats since your another BRM customer cause Damn so many people im picking one up and nobody never did....

 

You too man lol, sorry.. was just looking at the second page.. I believe you were the first with a positive post. Thanks to all the guys not busting my ***** for not being cool enough to have 3"

You know who you are! Haha..

 

I wanna see!

 

Quick update, I placed my order on the 28th I believe, received it on the 4th, that's seven days.. one day faster than the eight day expectancy, and that's with a weekend and the holidays. Absolutely incredible business!

I am about to install here in a few minutes and I'm taking pics along the way.. should be posted up as well as a video later today! \m/

 

Awesome! Can't wait to see the results.

 

Enjoy, and also in for pics.

 

Ok so, here are some pics before installation.. but I'm a little uncertain what to do about the bung in the resonator piece. The OEM resonator doesn't have one at all

Here's the piece in question first:



Here are the rest:















Sorry for the enormous pictures..

EDIT: Fixed..

 

You could probably find a cap or bolt at home depot for the bung.

 

That bung could easily be closed off with a plug. I really like the fact that the bung is there though. It is a perfect place to move a rear heated o2 sensor if you ever get headers. Having that bung will help keep you from getting the infamous inefficient catalytic converter code when installing headers. Unfortunately there are two heated sensors and you have only one bung. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. That exhaust does look good though.

 

That's what I was thinking.. just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something. I guess it's a universal resonator? Anyone happen to know the size/thread?

 

I googled and it looks like the standard is 18mm x 1.5

http://racepartsolutions.com/products.asp?cat=107

 

The standard O2 Sensor Bung Plug is a 17MM Head and M-18 Thread Size, so as long as that is the same, then that's the correct size from what I recall.

EDIT: Yea what he said ^^^ same thing!

 

Greg said he has a plug for it and can ship it no charge, though I may just try to find one at Home Depot or Lowe's.. not a huge deal, he said that most systems are requested with a bung for a wideband o2 sensor so his guys assumed I wanted one too. It is convenient and I never really thought about it.

Just wanted to double check. Thanks for the measurements guys! \m/

 

I would try Ace Hardware b4 I tried Lowe's or Home Depot....Home depot sucks when looking for automotive grade hardware....Ace supply's SS, cadium plated, allen head, 12 point, torxhead, buttonhead , etc.....sae and metric and the hardware department in huge ...I could almost built anything with all the **** they have.....Hell take the pretty resonator with you!! System look rather nice with plenty of adjustability;....... where are your U-bolts/ exhaust clamps?...Throw those cheap a$$ generic gaskets in a box for someother project.....You can reuse your Oem if you trim it (Dremmel) or go with SCE 3" 2 bolt flange copper gaskets available thru Summit, Jeg's....I guess that's a 3" cat? Nice system!

 

Got that exhaust installed yet?

 

Congrats on your BRM exhaust! Surprised more people havent gone with it, good quality for a decent price. Not to mention the super fast turnaround time! Mine came with the same 02 bung, which is nice considering how much it would cost to get one added down the road. What other mods do you have?

 

You sure this is a Cattman 3"? This guy must be catless and no resonator! My Cattman 3" sounds more refined than this video and not nearly as loud! Your 2.5" will be loud but more raspier not as deep! GL

 

Haven't installed yet, I had everything ready to go the other day and things came up and I had to drop the car and drive it right away so I put it off a little more, I guess once I find a plug for it I'll install. To the guy that said it will be loud a raspy, I sure hope not because I'm not going for loud and ricer.. I have faith in Greg's company that it'll not end up that way.

None right now, I plan on an Injen CAI, some suspension and tires/wheels.. small mods really. I'm going to focus more on suspension and appearance at first before I get into big mods power-wise. It is my DD after all

 

JWT is a better choice, Injen becomes restrictive at higher Rpm ....I had one never again!

 

I'll look into them, thanks for the heads-up!

 

How mig around is the resonator? 5" or 6"?

 

A CAI is restrictive up top but a super short SRI isn't??? That's backward smart guy.

 

The SRI works better for a 3.5, and the longer Injen intake works better for the 3.0 De-K.

 

True, but only because the 3.5 has a longer elbow and the injen makes up for that on the dek which has an almost non-existant elbow BUT even a 3.5 showed a considerable gain from a longer intake compared to a super short sri like the JWT popcharger especially up top.

Its a proven fact that a longer intake shows gains in the higher rpm range while a short sri would choke the engine up top.

 

It's also a dyno-proven fact that 3" > 2.5" even NA. Especially on the 3.5, but also the DEK. people used to hate the exhausts in general on the max, claiming catbacks would only equal 5hp. but gladly those days are gone and long forgotten.

 

That's funnny last Time I looked 4th, 5th and 6th gen Maximas actually came with SRI from the factory if you look inside your airbox and measure from your Mini-bellmouth/velocity stack to your TB it's about as long as a JWT popcharger! The only difference is the cool air ducting! 4 valves per cylinder engines usually make their power higher in the powerband than a 2 valve per cylinder engine....That's why the VG's intake tract was so freaking long cause it's a torque motor not a High winding 4 valver! Last time I looked the VQ30DE-K was a highwinding 4 valver....and had a factory installed SRI with a cool air duct system supplying air too an airbox

 

i never seen so much bashin on one thread , all because the op got a 2.5 , damn its still a upgrade its his car let him mod the car the way he wants too geez ....
It looks sweet btw ....

 

That's because people talk out of there *** and just look at peak numbers and disregard the powerband, torque curve, or the fact that gains are going to come from a proper tune. At the same time for what some people are doing with their car they will see minimal gains from 2.5" to 3" and that's what makes it not worth it to them.

Yea it came from the factory like that because all they cared about was economy and the low-mid range for the DD, they didn't make it to be driven in the higher rpms. Your theory is off btw, short rams don't improve top-end, they are better for low-end.

 

You're backwards.....short large dia. ports, intake tubes, etc are for Higher RPM hp.....Long skinny tubes are for torque

 

^^CMax03 is correct here

 

No where was the discussion about short LARGE diameter vs long SKINNY diameter, I was under the assumption we were speaking of the same diameter since the JWT and INJEN are essentially the same diameter.

But I see your point now and agree, you weren't clear before.

 

Wasn't this an original thread of the BRM Exhaust? How did it move it intakes?
Again OP-What is the diameter of the resonator? 5 or 6"s?

BTW CMax03 is correct on the intake.

 

Not sure man, weather has been sh!tty here (among other things stealing my time) and I don't have a garage so it's still sitting in my trunk, I can measure real quick though..

nishfish asked what other mods I had, that is where intakes came into play

 

Thanks!

 

CMax just took everyone to school

 

If same dia...piping is used....same thing! Short piping Higher peak hp, less air friction.....longer piping, increased low end torque, killing higher horsepower do to air friction....My injen made more hp and torque than stock b(on the Dyno) but became a restriction at higher rpm and you could hear my engine bog in it's 2nd to 3rd gear change (during 1/4 mi runs) run multiple exhaust set ups with the same intake samething until I swapped to a shorter intake and compared my wideband readings at initial WOT all the way to redline....2nd to 3rd gear change bog gone and all it does now is pull seamlessly........