and 10w in the summer

 

Aside from the 'faulty' piston rings, are these what people are referring to:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supertech-Va...item45fc61a865
will they fit the vq35de for Maxima because when I choose the 2003 Maxima from the make/model selection, it says not compatible?

 

no, what you are looking at are valve stem seals. Those also go bad when they dry out and leak oil into cylinders. Those usually fail if you overheat your motor.

What we are talking about in this thread are piston rings. Much bigger job to do than valve seals.

 

If you really really worried about it.....just buy a used newer VQ35 engine and put it in your Maxima. Would be cheaper than a complete teardown install of piston rings and assembly and re-install the motor. Install and removal of engine is about $1000...without even disassembling it.

 

Thanks I know that the main discussion was about rings but someone mentioned earlier that Nissan had either used bad rings or valve seals, I wanted to know if these are what he was speaking of. I got a motor torn apart right now. 2003 and ring gaps are not 180 degrees from each other. Maybe that's a contributing factor.
I got hr pistons 10.6CR and need some new rings, will any ring do because on ebay theres a cheap *** set for like $42.

 

Courtesy sells the set of 6 rings for $120 or so. Do you really want a critical engine component purchased off eBay for the lowest possible price?

My oil-burning '02 6MT had decent compression and leak-down numbers, but my non-oil-burning '05 6MT puts down a lot more power, even with the 300 lb handicap. So there's that to consider when living with an oil consumption problem. *shrug*

I haven't seen a direct comparison of an oil- and non-oil-burning VQ35 to see if the difference is proved by numbers, but if oil is escaping between the piston and cylinder wall, how can the compression not lower, as well?

 

Dont forget oil gets sucked through the PCV system/rear valve cover as well. Remove your VIAS or Block Plate and you'll see a nice puddle in there!

 

Someone here said its cheaper to replace with used vq35 engine.
What latest model uses the same engine? I don't want to do it yet, but incase engine will give me some other problems later, I might just buy used wrecked car and use the engine.

 

so i have figured out the 02 max/i35 oil burn off issue haven't had an issue since after replacing egr system, pcv, and a leak down test that came out normal...... i dont know if anyone has posted it yet didn't read all post. but quickly found out after replacing exhaust system it was the catalytic converter. just to verify i have not had any issues with my 02 maxima or 02 i35..

 

Little late to this post, new to the forum.

I have 155k on my 02 Max. It was burning 1 quart every 500-1k. Also have valve tap

Decided to mix some Seafoam with engine oil, 1.5oz for every quart and ran for about 1K, repeated process 4 times. Then did regular oil change.

Valve tap has quieted and Max goes through about a pint every 3-4k.

 

DO NOT TRY A THICKER OIL

this will mask any underlying problems you have, you should never have to do such a thing.

I have a 2002 as well and it was losing the same amount as yours 1-1.5qts

I noticed my PCV valve had no rubber gasket on it, this caused a vacuum leak which caused oil burning. Once I replaced my rear valve cover with a 6th gen cover, and replaced the PCV, I now lose 0 oil. (nissan stopped selling the gasket with the PCV for a few years, you had to purchase separate!!!!!!) I wonder how many oil burners this created.....

I have also had my oil cooler gasket replaced and oil pressure sensor (takes 6 mins for both)

I can almost guarantee you are losing oil from one of those locations. Rear valve cover being the worst. If this is not the case, it can be your oil pan or upper oil pan leaking. I am going to replace these seals soon although there is no longer a leak/burn

In my honest opinion, I have done a lot of research and I do not believe it is caused by bad rings. you would have smoke. I had a very very severe leak/burn, now I lose no oil.

I hope to save you lots of money, please check what I listed before paying a mechanic hundreds of dollars

btw, Im running 5w-20 through my engine.. and I'm not burning or leaking..
Your engine should do the same. A thicker oil will not help in the long run and may cause damage due to lack of lubrication.

 

What in the ef is going on here, plane crash is actually making a small measure of sense, except for still thinking a crankcase leak is the same as a vacuum leak, man, you are too stubborn and thick headed to learn

 

I have a 3.5 and it too burns oil. I put in about a half a quart every month. My question is, will the CEL or oil light go off on the dashboard if the oil is too low? So far it hasn't but that's because I check and refill it regularly.

 

By the time the oil light comes on it's usually too late. Damage has been done. Keep checking the oil level.

 

Cool thanks, I definitely will keep checking it regularly as I have been. Was just curious if the light would actually come on if it got too low.

 

the pcv is connected directly to the IM, if there is no gasket on the valve, it actually is a true vacuum leak. The IM gets unmetered air from the opening

 

Plane crash - 1pt

 

I just checked the manual and it says the following,

"The oil pressure warning light is not designed
to indicate a low oil level. Use the
dipstick to check the oil level."

 

Number 1 cause of loss of oil pressure is???
Running the engine out of oil. Keep checking the level