About a month ago doing a tranny swap i was removing the bolt that holds the CPS in place,
The bolt broke and we didn't have the right angle drill to drill and tap it and we didn't want to drop the x member either.
So on the mounting tab of the CPS sensor itself we drilled another hole and drilled another hole next to the broken bolt so they would line up perfect.
The car has started like butter for the past three weeks without a problem and now im getting the dreaded CPS crank..pause..crank start issue.
It hasn't thrown a code but i bought a new sensor anyway and am going to put it in tomorrow.
What im asking is should it be ok to drill another hole on the mounting tab of the CPS and just tighten it up with the same bolt i have been using or should i wait and try to have someone get the old bolt out ?
It was fine for a month so not sure if the CPS was already on it's way out or what.

 

Is there any portion of the bolt sticking out? My mechanic showed me a trick one time for removing torqued off bolts. I torqued off the head of a starter bolt one time and flipped a sheit. Called him and said "oh no what do I do!?" he laughed and said come pick me up and ill get it out. Got em to the car he got over it and got it out with his fingers. I torqued this thing to over 100ft/lbs(by accident) and the head sheared off, it was IN THERE. How he did it? I dont know but he did it with his damn fingers lol so it is possible just find someone who knows the force well

 

I wish it was sticking out a little but it actually broke inside a little. I know what your saying because i snapped the bolt that held my SRI up and took a pair of needlenose and it came right out, Problem is the subframe is in the way of where the bolt was which makes it even harder, And the rad support is bad and im not touching it until i replace it, But i don't want to ruin a new sensor i spent 100 bucks on either

 

It SHOULD be fixed properly. that's the obvious answer.

I don't understand what your other fix was though. You drilled a hole into the housing just next to the broken bolt? How does this hold anything, did you thread it and install another bolt????

I don't really understand how you were able to get in right next to the broken bolt with a drill but weren't able to get at the broken bolt to extract it?

I am hoping something is just missing from your story cause I'm not getting this....

 

Sorry man i was on my phone trying to post this thread, What i did was when the bolt snapped i drilled and tapped a hole to the right of where the sub frame is because that's the only place i had the room to do so, In turn the bolt hole in the sensor didn't line up so i had to drill the mounting tab on the sensor so it would bolt up and fit flush and line up right with the timing ring.

 

Is the bolt that snapped off long enough that it sticks through to the other side of the bell housing? Maybe you can get it from the inside.

 

I wish man it bolts into the lower end of the motor.

 

IIRC, that CPS has a tab with a bolt hole. It isn't alligned by anything else. If this is the case, and you can't access the other bolt, can you turn the CPS sensor in a circular motion and mark a new hole, drill and tap and install a new bolt, say, 180 degrees from the old one?

This way you still use the normal CPS mount. And the orientation of the sensor doesn't matter as long as it's depth is correct.

 

I would drill and tap it. OR try to extract it some way then drilling more holes.

 

What size is the bolt? if its 6mm and up you could try the drill and use a torx bit hit in the hole and back it out just make sure you heat up the surrounding area first.

 

Tuner : Good thinking man but if you rotate the CPS 180 degrees the trans doesn't meet the sensor it starts to curve and that thing can't be off the slightest bit.

Cjandura : That's what im going to check on and try to do tomorrow, It's just looks tough with the subframe so incredibly close to the broken bolt.

 

Another option that has worked for me is if you have access to a stick welder sence its in alum use a 5/32 rod and tap it to the broken bolt then use it as a handle to loosen the piece.

 

^ you can do the same thing with a MIG welder and put a nut on it, then tack the inside of the nut to the broken bolt and unthread quickly (the heat will shock the bolt and cause it to break free, and come out even easier.)

 

Ill hopefully be doing this tomorrow so ill let you guys know how it turns out, Thanks again