shaks

iTrader: (15)

it seems like second bushing is bad as well - you'll have to do both...

i remember when i did mine it took around 5 hours for control arms/sway bar bushings/subframe connectors - was taking my time with beer and air tools))

shaks

iTrader: (15)

and i went the ES way - after that my front is rock solid and quite soft to some point (compared to cracked bushings on aftermarket LCA)

spiritman

Yep, I decided to go ES. I can't believe I can get it quicker from Autozone than I can with Amazon Prime.

shaks

iTrader: (15)

i got mine directly from ES, their shipping is killing, on the other side Moog gives you free shipping after 75 (?) in cars or something similar.
Autozone has lots of ES parts for domestic cars in stock...

I saw your post about taking it to the shop. in my area - NYC shops charge around 60 for both lca to replace bushings with your parts, but I did mine on my own)) used impact gun sockets and a press in the shop I worked

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

I got them from this place http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...an+Maxima+2003 shipping was fast if i remember.

spiritman

I just got back from Autozone. I'll have them on Wednesday. Not bad for $54.49 after tax.

grksoccerkid91

iTrader: (4)

glad i read this! i'm taking my bent control arm out tomorrow (got all the bolts out minus that same nut!) guess i'm going to put my dremel to work! now i have to debate whether to just get new control arms or bushings. we'll see. let me know how this goes for you!

spiritman

If I had a bent control arm, I would replace that and go with Moog BJ and ES bushings.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

If your LCA is actually bent, then you're going to want a new one. And if you're buying a new one, then it will come with BJ's attached, and bushings already pressed in. At which point, replacing bushings and BJ's with Moog and ES parts is a whole lot of overkill for minimal upgrade value.

spiritman

I stand corrected.

Berto210

If your rear control arm bushing is shot, then you might as well do the whole control arm. New ones come with the rear bushings and the front bushings.

I have had luck with replacing the front bushing only, so hopefully that will hold me over for sometime so I can save some $$$.

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

Just replace the original bushings with the ES bushings.

spiritman

I'm picking up my Moog BJ today from Oreilly.

Sneaky Green

I got the whole front suspension deal from RCP imports but i have heard that thier parts are sub par. So i was thinking of replacing the ball joints,sway bar end links, tie rods with moog and the control arm bushings with energy suspension before I install it. Is this a bad idea?

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

I'd be more concerned about the LCA fitment than the bushings and BJ's.

It's just a LCA... it's not like you're installing coilovers. New bushings and new ball-joints will likely serve you better than whatever is old and on the car right now. Trowing away perfectly fine components seems silly. Keep your LCA and install new parts, or replace the LCA entirely... which will come with new parts.

IDK how many different ways to say this. It seems like reasonable advice.

inyoface

had the same probelm with my 97 bought energy suspension LCA bushings feels way better.and u will need a press so best thing is just go to a machine shop is get'em pressed out and u can put the ES ones urself...no pressing but greasing lol.change ur ball joints while ur at it.I replaced everything including hub assembly and bearing.Gud lUck to every1

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

Any simple way to tell if the LCA is bent though? I have the same situation as OP.

grksoccerkid91

iTrader: (4)

Well see, I plowed into an altima that cut me off, which is why mine is bent lol. Right now I'm in between oem lca/tie rods or the fcp import kit which is their "cheaper" set, but for 140 you get everything. I'll be on ksport c/os and making quite a bit of power so I don't want to cheap out

Sneaky Green

LCA Fitment? What do you mean its just plug and play right?

spiritman

I can't get the connecting rod of the sway bar link to align properly with the hole. Is it because the wheel is off and there's nothing to force it up?







This is the last piece I have to do and I'm trying to get it wrapped up.

markjc

The opposite wheel is still connected to the sway bar which is pushing your side up. What you can do is pry down the sway bar to get the link in. Or you can unbolt the sway link on the other side so the bar can swing freely. Or.. just lift up both sides of the car lol.

spiritman

I'll lift up the other side.

I thought it was going to go back in as easily as it came out.

markjc

Yeah jack it up little by little and watch the link to see if it will slip in, you may not have to actually get it up that high.

spiritman

It worked! Jacking up the drivers side evened it right out!

T_Behr904

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Man you should of put hardened flat washers on atleast the lower end link connection reason being oval slot round stud may have movement and noise

spiritman

I just drove it around and all the noise was gone. I'm not saying it won't come back, but we'll see. I figure Moog didn't put any in there so I should be okay.

luvlexus101

iTrader: (6)

Happened to me before with the oval opening. Tighten it down enough and it stays tight.

spiritman

Torqued them down to 40 ft lbs.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I've done (2) 4th gens with ES LCA bushing kits and both were relatively easy as hell if you know what you're doing....The new 4th Gen I just acquired will get the ES LCA bushing kit for as well.....Stating that the 5th Gen LCA isn't that different than the 4th, 3rd or 2nd Gen LCA's other than the balljoint design is pressed in rather than bolted on! None of the ES LCA bushings required a press to install......

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

LOL @The Office

Good job, OP.

spiritman

Thanks! Where would we be without internet forums? You guys helped me when I was stuck. Changing those few components made a world of difference.

7speed

Well looks like my high pressure power steering hose leak (got fixed today) is causing me to need new LCA's.

Courtesy is talking about $430 each side. Does that sound reasonable? Also, would it be cool just to do 1 side. My passenger side is the one make noise sometimes and the one that they actually showed me where the rubber is going to ish.

02whitemaximase

iTrader: (38)

that price is way wrong. check the part again.

02whitemaximase

iTrader: (38)

check this site and click on section 54500. 135 each side.

http://nissanpartsasap.com/nissanpar...&illust_seq=01

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

Lower control arm from courtesyparts. $145.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/54500-l...2-p-46281.html

02whitemaximase

iTrader: (38)

Courtesy is a thing of the past now. New site with better prices.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

7speed lives in Dallas, so he probably meant that price was a quote for parts & installation at Courtesy Nissan.

Still a lot of money, though. You'd think it would be a two hour job at a Nissan shop. Maybe that includes an alignment and a blow job?

02whitemaximase

iTrader: (38)

Well it just may be worth it if you don't go in with a "loaded gun"

spiritman

That is exactly what happened to me. The passenger side was all tore up. Bad sway bar link, the bushing was mush, and the ball joint had a split in it. I got that side good now. I'll probably do the drivers side this weekend.