mastere954

iTrader: (17)

Hey all. I'm in the process of replacing the passenger axle on my 2001 AE. I know the axle is attached to that bearing with 3 12mm bolts on it. My issue is that I was able to get the bottom two bolts out but no way on the top on. I removed a big piece of heat shield off the factory y-pipe. And still and can't get to it. I've searched and can't come up with anything besides "have to take off the 3 bolts on tr bearing". Is there any certain way to take off the top one?? I could remove the factory y-pipe and get to it. But never heard of anyone doing so to change the axle. Help please!!
Thanks in advance

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

I'm pretty sure it is the same process as the 4th gen. If so, all three bolts can be removed with basic tools, if you don't have the arm of a gorilla. I've used a gear wrench and might have used a 1/4 ratchet with an extension on one of the bolts. It's been a while. If you do have a huge arm or one of the bolts is seized/stripped, you can remove the bracket from the block so it drops with the axle. Those bolts aren't too bad to get to either.

essential1

iTrader: (5)

The top one is tricky if you've never done it before. Use a ratcheting wrench. Don't go from underneath, go from the side of the car. (face the hub) Reach in and feel for the bolt, get the ratchet wrench on there and pull up. If you don't have enough leverage, use the trick where you attach another wrench to the end to gain some more leverage.

Worse comes to worse, just take off the entire thing. It's just 2 bolts (14mm if i remember correctly) attached to the block.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

All of this.

Of course Essential can step in he knows this procedure back to front

mastere954

iTrader: (17)

Yea I felt the bolt by going in from the side. My problem was no leverage because of the o2 sensor. I know that had I a aftermarket y-pipe It would be soooooo much easier. I'll give it a shot again and check back. Thank!

essential1

iTrader: (5)

Don't remind me. lol

Professor

iTrader: (4)

Its not to difficult if ya do it from the side, i done it 3 times on mine already, getting ready for 2 more axles again...........

mastere954

iTrader: (17)

Reason for changing is the outer boot has two very small rips. Like pencil tip small. Anyone ever considered using some of that new q-bond stuff on the boot if it's such small rips??

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

The boots move constantly in and out and up and down and around. No sealant is going to work.

When I did my 4th gen way back in the day, I just pulled the whole bracket down and then swapped the hanger bracket over on the bench (driveway, whatevs), that's what you're trying to do?

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

agreed...that maxima nerd helped me turn my hr ordeal into a 2 minute completed job

essential1

iTrader: (5)

Speaking of which... Did you text me the other day? I loaded up a new ROM onto my phone and lost half of my numbers. I think it was you...

mastere954

iTrader: (17)

Ive seen guys use that q-bond on rubber gaskets and o-rings that are constantly tampered with. And it holds pretty dam good I understand te movement of the boot but logically at least to me, the only issue would be the stretching when turning the wheel. The replacement axle I have is a gsg I got for dirt cheap. I don't like gsg so I rather keep the factory. I'm going to try out that q-bond being the rips are so small. The minute I see grease on the wheel. Ill change it. I'll update with how the q-bond works for whoever might be in the same predicament.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

you dirty sumbish lol yea...shot you a pic of the teg