sound when key turned to On or Start
sound when key turned to On or Start
Sounds like a small electric motor about to start up. Lights turn on and all before the sound is off but the music will not start until after it stops.
Obviously this is something to do with the electronics. Is something going to break soon? Noise started a week ago at most.
Thanks in advance
Obviously this is something to do with the electronics. Is something going to break soon? Noise started a week ago at most.
Thanks in advance
Sounds like a small electric motor about to start up. Lights turn on and all before the sound is off but the music will not start until after it stops.
Obviously this is something to do with the electronics. Is something going to break soon? Noise started a week ago at most.
Thanks in advance
Obviously this is something to do with the electronics. Is something going to break soon? Noise started a week ago at most.
Thanks in advance
I tried for a sec while i was outside. I could hear it when I was outside of the car with the hood down. I heard it loud and clear inside. My shift ends soon and I will pop the hood and have someone turn the key.
Not doing it no. Maybe because the engine is hot?? No cd able to be played with this headunit. I will wait until the car is cold, check again and update. If the noise is gone then I am confused and happy.
I just went outside and listened under the hood. Sounds like its below the brake fluid behind the firewall or in this black plastic housing. I took a vid on my phone but no idea how to upload it.
Peculiar. I recommend removing the AUDIO fuse that is under the hood and re-testing.
1. Do you ahve a OEM radio or aftermarket?
2. You have a 02, correct? So that means it's NOT the IACV
3. Any aftermarket HID, relays, etc?
1. Do you ahve a OEM radio or aftermarket?
2. You have a 02, correct? So that means it's NOT the IACV
3. Any aftermarket HID, relays, etc?
I will try removing the fuse tomorrow. To dark and cold to do that now
1. Aftermarket
2. Correct
3. All stock
This is the video I just took.
My girl is in the car and turns the key back and forth 3 times. It only happens ONCE when turning the key.
1. Aftermarket
2. Correct
3. All stock
This is the video I just took.
My girl is in the car and turns the key back and forth 3 times. It only happens ONCE when turning the key.
Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 26, 2013 at 06:47 AM.
She doesn't crank the car right?
And it makes the noise 3 times in the video, ONCE PER KEY "ON" cycle, correct?
That's effffed up man. Pull the Fuse that supplies power to your aftermarket deck and recheck. I'm trying to brainstorm what it could be. seems like it's on the engine side of the firewall?
And it makes the noise 3 times in the video, ONCE PER KEY "ON" cycle, correct?
That's effffed up man. Pull the Fuse that supplies power to your aftermarket deck and recheck. I'm trying to brainstorm what it could be. seems like it's on the engine side of the firewall?
Both things you said were CORRECT.
Honestly man, I feel like it is on the other side of the firewall but it is hard to tell. I felt for vibration to get a better idea of where it was coming from. Can you tell me real quick how to figure out which fuse? First time for everything.
Honestly man, I feel like it is on the other side of the firewall but it is hard to tell. I felt for vibration to get a better idea of where it was coming from. Can you tell me real quick how to figure out which fuse? First time for everything.
Behind the battery toward the firewall, there is a narrow fuse panel. It's labled, I am not 100% sure but I think there is one labled AUDIO, it's on the row closest to the Engine as I recall, and that fuse runs the marker lights and the head unit. Pull it out and retest. You'll know right away if you ahve the right fuse, simply by checking the head unit (if it turns on).
If the noise goes away 90% chance it's something really, really wacky with your aftermarket head unit.
I have some random other ideas but nothing that really makes sense. ABS actuator, Brake booster diaphragm (if it has some sort of solonoid actuated component, unlikely), Throttle body motor 'sweep' (don't think our cars do this but not sure), or it could be a relay that is on it's way out, but if this were the case, you'd be able to pinpoint it more directly.
If your Audio Fuse test makes no difference:
You do IIRC have a couple relays by the fuse panel that is INSIDE the car. Lay your head underneath by your pedals, and have a listen, if you lay your head there, eyes facing up and left ear to the Head unit, Right ear to the Fuse panel, and turn the key on, you'll be able to say which direction it's coming from for certain, that will help too.
If the noise goes away 90% chance it's something really, really wacky with your aftermarket head unit.
I have some random other ideas but nothing that really makes sense. ABS actuator, Brake booster diaphragm (if it has some sort of solonoid actuated component, unlikely), Throttle body motor 'sweep' (don't think our cars do this but not sure), or it could be a relay that is on it's way out, but if this were the case, you'd be able to pinpoint it more directly.
If your Audio Fuse test makes no difference:
You do IIRC have a couple relays by the fuse panel that is INSIDE the car. Lay your head underneath by your pedals, and have a listen, if you lay your head there, eyes facing up and left ear to the Head unit, Right ear to the Fuse panel, and turn the key on, you'll be able to say which direction it's coming from for certain, that will help too.
Perfect. This is on the to-do list for tomorrow. Your ABS theory is not impossible. If you recall my other thread about the ABS wire being rubbed down to the copper and my light is currently on. It is weird if its the headunit years after install.
Will update tomorrow. Thanks again.
OK man. I pulled the AUDIO fuse and nothing changed. Since you (Tuner) mentioned ABS I pulled 2 ABS fuses also. The fuse that made the noise go away was FL40A ABS MTR. So something to do with the ABS motor. Keep in mind, my ABS light is on and the front passenger wire was rubbed down and pinched and I covered it with electrical tape for now.
Will update tomorrow. Thanks again.
OK man. I pulled the AUDIO fuse and nothing changed. Since you (Tuner) mentioned ABS I pulled 2 ABS fuses also. The fuse that made the noise go away was FL40A ABS MTR. So something to do with the ABS motor. Keep in mind, my ABS light is on and the front passenger wire was rubbed down and pinched and I covered it with electrical tape for now.
Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 26, 2013 at 06:48 AM.
Each time the car is turned "on" the ABS sensors and modules do a check. It's a very odd noise, but at least you know that it's likely the module. Unfortunately I know little to nothing about the specifics of hte ABS actuator and it's electronic controls.
If I get a shot I can have a look at mine and see if there's anything I can recommend to further isolate it.
If I get a shot I can have a look at mine and see if there's anything I can recommend to further isolate it.
I just looked and basically, I'd say you've got the right idea. If you want to get Preventative about it you could start looking around or a ABS module (get the whole thing) from the wreckers or something, then if something smokes you've got a backup ready and won't have to shell out an exorbanant amount of cash to fix it.
I tried to just listen to see if mine makes any noise at all, and I couldn't hear it because of the darned IACV actuating. Someone with a 5.5 will have to check and see if there's makes a noise that is notable, but obviously much much quieter.
And I'd dig through the FSM to see how that module comes apart, if the motor/electrical side can simply be removed without having to bleed brakes or whatever, then I'd pop it apart and try to clean it, or replace it with one from the wreckers. If you have to bleed the brakes though I'd just leave it until it smokes.
I tried to just listen to see if mine makes any noise at all, and I couldn't hear it because of the darned IACV actuating. Someone with a 5.5 will have to check and see if there's makes a noise that is notable, but obviously much much quieter.
And I'd dig through the FSM to see how that module comes apart, if the motor/electrical side can simply be removed without having to bleed brakes or whatever, then I'd pop it apart and try to clean it, or replace it with one from the wreckers. If you have to bleed the brakes though I'd just leave it until it smokes.
Ok. I will downlpad the FSM and check that out and hopefully nothing happe s for a really long time. With a daughter due in 3 weeks, a car issue is the last thing I want to think of.
So I checked out the FSM. It states "the ABS actuator and electric unit are NOT disassemble." It also states that "a mechanical noise may be heard during the self-test." Or while driving a mechanical test may be heard. Both of those are NORMAL.
So I checked out the FSM. It states "the ABS actuator and electric unit are NOT disassemble." It also states that "a mechanical noise may be heard during the self-test." Or while driving a mechanical test may be heard. Both of those are NORMAL.
Last edited by NmexMAX; Mar 26, 2013 at 06:46 AM.
yeah a noise should be normal but not to that extent me no thinks. Hopefully someone else with a 5.5 can check how loud it is. IMO, you shouldn't be able to hear it while sitting int the car with the doors and windows closed.
any more word on this? I have had a bad sensor for 2-3 years that I just replaced and now am getting this sound. the ABS light also comes on right away now when switching the key on while before I replaced the sensor the light did not come on until after the car got up to about 5 mph. it is definitely the ABS pump, cycles when the key is first switched on and then is quiet. would be good to know what makes the system decide to do this
I have never looked into it beyond a TSB that stated a noise was normal on startup in some of the cars. I have had no ill effects except for an annoying sound....with that said I have had a bad ABS sensor for a few months.
Mine does this too, all started when I killed an ABS sensor. Still does it because I haven't replaced it yet.
Check the ABS code, find someone locally that can do that, I use the Cipher. Tells you which wheel.
And I'm assuming you have an ABS light?
Check the ABS code, find someone locally that can do that, I use the Cipher. Tells you which wheel.
And I'm assuming you have an ABS light?
Been hearing it for 6 years now.
. Would my previous symptoms (ABS light not on until rolling 5mph, no pump noise) indicate that all the sensors were fine but something was wrong with the readings such as inductor ring readings mismatch between the front and rear or side to side? Or that a sensor was checking out ok but providing bad readings? Im going to sell this car and even though I personally prefer no ABS, I expect it will make things a bit difficult in resalenot sure why did they decided to make it impossible to pull ABS codes like in previous model years, but I dont like it
I dont get why I didnt hear it before I replaced the bad sensor and now I do? Maybe I hosed myself and replaced a good sensor with a bad one
. Would my previous symptoms (ABS light not on until rolling 5mph, no pump noise) indicate that all the sensors were fine but something was wrong with the readings such as inductor ring readings mismatch between the front and rear or side to side? Or that a sensor was checking out ok but providing bad readings? Im going to sell this car and even though I personally prefer no ABS, I expect it will make things a bit difficult in resale
not sure why did they decided to make it impossible to pull ABS codes like in previous model years, but I dont like it
. Would my previous symptoms (ABS light not on until rolling 5mph, no pump noise) indicate that all the sensors were fine but something was wrong with the readings such as inductor ring readings mismatch between the front and rear or side to side? Or that a sensor was checking out ok but providing bad readings? Im going to sell this car and even though I personally prefer no ABS, I expect it will make things a bit difficult in resalenot sure why did they decided to make it impossible to pull ABS codes like in previous model years, but I dont like it
Because once my sensor died, it was basically ABS light on since I turned the vehicle on, and I'd get that noise at every start-up, (Still do).
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