Alright, I have gotten to the bottom of my IACV/low idle/now high idle issue. I pulled the ECU out today and well, you can see the pics below. My question is, who have you used to do this transistor replacement? I know many of you have sent your ECU out to have it repaired, so who do you recommend and what does it cost? Also, can someone tell me how to post pics here? Whenever I try, it asks me for a web address. I put these pics on my skydrive so I could get an address link and it still wouldn't take them! What is the secret? :->

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx...ML1b0URPB1zMiY

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx...BgoBT7jizi_jv8


Thanks,
Jason

 

try these ppl

http://www.avproecm.com/


looks like they have a short turnaround

 

Thanks, Amave. Have you used them personally? I am hoping some one can refer me from their own experience with a company.

Jason

 

ouch....that's some damage!

 

The place that Amave recommended looks really good, and they even say on their website that in the Maxima the damage can be extensive. Mine seems to be. You can't see it from these pics, but two of the traces are burned as well. Getting this repair for $190 is a steal in my mind. I'm gonna call this place tomorrow just to make sure I understand their offering, and with any luck, send it to them Tuesday.

 

Oh, I can see the burned off traces. I work in the electronics industry, so I am familiar with the shorting-out of components. And that IC certainly looks like it did a number on that board.


you know...depending on how adept at soldering you are, if that IC is through-hole, it wouldn't be too hard to replace the IC and jumper the burned traces.

I'm not sure about any relearning or calibration the ECU would go through after the IC replacement and trace repair, but if you wanted to save a couple hundred bucks....

That being said, a couple hundred bucks sounds about right for that work. Standard repairs at my company run 250 flat-rate.

 

There was a previous good post regarding this:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-seconds.html

 

Fortunately no i have not ( knock on wood ) but if i ever had to get mine fixed i would send my ECU to them .

Just be sure to repair the main problem ( IACV replacement or coolant bypass ) before fixing the ECU.


yeah the price is a steal. It includes shipping and no coding of keys needed

 

Yeah, I did change out the IACV a couple of days ago. Then I got worried that if the board was fried that it might adversely affect the new IACV, so I took it back out and ohm tested it. 22 ohms, just like it should be, so no problem there.

 

Has anyone done the coolant bypass that Darkrock describes in the New ECU, fried in seconds.... post? I'm about to send out my ECU, and just wonder if I should do this as a preventative measure. His post is below:


"**Posted on the "coolant bypass thread"---->Just completed it today and I live in a fairly cold clime in N. IL and will report if any issues. But I view this as additional insurance against coolant contacting IACV. I have found corrosion at the pin base of at least 2 IACVs that have faulted and possibly a third to not closing TSP before starting.
Procedure: Purchased 5/16" brass split hose mender with the claw backs. Disconnected each hose from each side of the IACV/TB and joined each to the brass mender and clamped with existing. Capped each IACV port with 3/8" ID black chair tips and these aren't as snug as I would have liked but not certain I even need any but it looks more finished. Fired up with no issues. Maybe $3.00 with Cook County tax and might have saved me real money if done sooner. Ignorance isn't bliss! It's expensive!"

 

yeah it makes sense to do this to prevent any future IACV issues

 

The purpose of having the coolant in the IACV is to warm the air coming in. The warmer the air, the better the gasoline vaporizes in it. It is only needed with cold air. If you don't live where in an area that has harsh winters, you'll never have a problem if you do the bypass. Even if you do live up north, the worst problem would be that the engine would stumble when accelerating from a stop until the engine warms up.

 

Yes I have done the coolant bypass. Not sure if I followed anyone's instructions, but I just connected the IN to the IACV to the OUT of the IACV with a home depot metal barbed hose connector. No problems. Live in NYC and Philly. In the winter, still ran fine with no issues or slow starts.

 

Yeah, I think I'm going to do the bypass - BEFORE I put the ECU back in. It goes out today to AVProEcu in Florida. Talked to the guy Nick who answered the phone; nice guy. He said about 90% of his business is coming from forum groups. I told him he should advertise on our forum! They have been in business for a long time, and he sounds knowledgeable, so I'm excited to get it done.

I will take pics and post a thread about doing the bypass, and the results. Maybe pics of the fixed board too so people can see their work.

 

thats so cool!

definitely take pics, and yeah i have read about them repairing ECU's and i haven't heard anything negative about them as of yet.


The great thing is they have quick turnaround ( i think i read on their site it only take a few hours from when they get the damaged ECU, fix it, then ship it out and you can start the car as soon as you get it ( no need to get keys coded from the Nissan dealer ) .

So while you wait for the ECU may as well replace the IACV, do the coolant bypass so you never have the same problem again and plug in the ECU and do the idle relearn ( may not even need to do the relearn )

 

So my ECU fried with the p0505 code so I'm guessing it's the IACV. Anyways should I change the coolant bypass (I'm not sure what this is to be honest) while I'm changing the IACV? Is it also worth trying to start the car with only the IACV changed or will the old ECU damage the new IACV?

 

car wont run right even with new IACV, you have to fix the ECU for it to run