kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

Please don't rip me a new one for this; but I am at a complete loss as to what my issue is. A could days ago I replaces the crank and cam sensors, the next day everything seemed fine, then yesterday, the car seemed to be sluggish. Hovers around 2500RPMs the whole time. Acceleration is slow compared to how it used to be. The car will go past 2500rpm however, I have to basically floor it and the acceleration at WOT is very slow as well; the car feels like it is struggling. I do have a P1800 code for VIAS solenoid and my MAF is original as far as I can tell. Car has roughly 140XXX miles on it.

Based on what I've read I think i've narrowed it down to MAF or VIAS. I attempted to do the BOP last night, but it was getting dark and I couldnt get the wire bundle moved to get to the bottom screw (if anyone has any tips on this I would greatly appreciate them).

Also, the car is a 2002 AT. The best way to sum everything up is the car feels hungry for air or fuel, something is restricted, and it feels like a 4 cylinder; not the 6 cylinder 250hp Max im used to.

Sorry for the wall of text, any and all input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks .orgers!!

Amave

possible the solenoid is stuck on your VIAS or the linkage is broken.

also since you said its an A/T, is it possible the trans. Torque converter might be messed up?

My wifes G20 had let her battery drain and it acted like it wouldnt accelerate, turns out the trans computer needs more than 12v for more than 5 seconds when started otherwise it goes into 3rd gear default limp mode.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

If in doubt, it's the maf.

Or at least the 1st thing to try. VIAS doesn't cause problems like that.

Amave

He can always disconnect the MAF and see how it runs, the ECU will use its predetermined MAF values to run, so if it runs better with the MAF unplugged, the MAF is bad

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

Wouldn't there be other symptoms? Trans shifts fantastic, no jerking or anything.

Amave

no, the only symptom of a bad battery is the trans. computer going into limp mode.

all other electrical devices are run off of the alternator from the get go, the ECU and trans. computer get juice from the battery when you turn the key on

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

So today on my way home the car stalled at a stoplight. Started back up just fine. This point towards a MAF?

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

Anyone have any thoughts?

soundquest

It absolutely is your MAF -- I just had to replace the MAF on my 2002 and I had the same symptoms. I did a 2000 20 2002 MAF swap as is seen in the forums in a nice DIY writeup (just search under MAF swap and you will find). THE CAR DRIVES LIKE ITS BRAND NEW NOW!. IT EVEN FIXED MY MESSED UP IDLE AIR LEARN PROCEDURE INABILITY AND NOW IDLES AT A PERFECT 650 RPM WITH NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (WAS STUCK AT 950 BEFORE AFTER A THROTTLE BODY CLEAN - WAS STUCK THERE FOR A YEAR WITH CHECK ENGINE LIGHT). So you must consider my experience and the experience of several others. Our MAFs suck! and the swap is the only way to go in my opinion. Especially since they are so cheap comparatively and the results so staggeringly awesome.

I too have a VIAS P1800 code (or at lease I did before the swap). Am going to keep driving to see if I can get the P1800 code to come back on. Who knows, perhaps the new MAF will fix that as well or render that error code a false positive in retrospect.

Please let us know where you stand currently on this.

soundquest

Please remember this is a 2002, a 5.5 gen Max, not a 5th gen Max, and as such, IT DOES NOT HAVE THE BROKEN VIAS LINKAGE ISSUE LIKE THE 5TH GEN HAS.

Finchum

either MAF or TPS in the throttle body. got a code?

kbcnd

iTrader: (2)

Replaced MAF and the dealer gave me a new solenoid (didn't have to pay). That solved one issue, however, about 2 months ago (shortly after my initial post) the car started bucking and stalling when accelerating from a stop. SES light came on the following day for codes of cam and crank position sensors. Replaced the sensors and all seemed fine for about 4 days, then it wouldn't go much past 2500 rpm and started stalling again. Took it back in, they said a sensor came loose and all was good...for about a week, then it started stalling again. Took it back down, said it was a faulty sensor and they replaced it under warranty. All has been well since till yesterday. Car stalled and I couldn't keep it running. Got it home and decided to take it back to the dealer in the am. Took it down (barely) and the SES light came on. The pulled the same codes for came and crank. They cleared it, it came back, cleared it again, and all was fine Friday night but they wanted to keep it for a cold start on Saturday am. All day Saturday they drive it. Cold, hot, comp hooked to it, it wouldn't replicate and it drove like new, still did tonight.

Sorry for the book... But here's my question...

Why does it keep acting up. They can't find the issue, can anyone shed light on this please? Thanks