i have other codes but have figured out with a little help that everything "could" be stemming from a p0011. it was the first code to show up. i have no idea on where to start since everything i read is all over the place.

what i really need help on is a starting point. preferably the easiest and cheapest first.

 

Did you do the timing chain job recently? If so, you skipped a tooth or two/advanced cam in bank 1.

You need to go and redo the timing chain again.

 

From the FSM:

P0011 (Bank 1) or P0021 (Bank 2)

Harness or connectors (Intake valve timing control solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.)
Intake valve timing control solenoid valve
Crankshaft position sensor (POS)
Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft

 

have not done the timing chain job yet. the p0011 cropped up before i had the timing chain rattle.

 

i will start by checking all the connectors and testing the circuits.

after that i will figure out how to check the actual solenoids.

 

Simple. When the engine is cold, check the resistance between the 2 terminals of the solenoid.
You should get 7-7.5 ohms @ 20C. If its off, you got bad solenoids.

To check if the harness supplies the signal to the solenoid, turn the ignition ON but DO NOT run the engine, ground the - of the volt meter and + to one of the harness terminals, should supply 12V.

Can also be a bad camshaft sensor.

 

I ALSO HAVE THAT P0011 CODE ON MY MAX. ITS THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR. IT MAKES UR CAR HAVE HARD STARTS. CHANGE IT THEN GET BACK TO ME.

 

COURTESYPARTS.COM HAS THEM IN STOCK

 

i had both p0011 and p0021 after my engine restore incident, i purchased and installed both Bank1 and Bank2 sensors, and after quite a few ecu resets i'm still getting Bank1 code.

 

Rear up how to check if the VTC solenoid is faulty, if not you skipped a tooth in bank 1. You will need to redo the main timing chain.

 

bank 1 reads 7.7 ohms and 12.2v
bank 2 reads 7.7-7.8 ohms and 12.3v

so i am assuming that the solenoids are ok.

tested all the harnesses. everything there checks out.

did not check resistance of the actual sensor yet because i am still trying to track down its reference values.

 

found the values lol.. it seems any reading other than zero or infinite. i will get back out there later and pull the sensor again and run the checks.

anyone know where i can get a replacement "lower" wiring harness for bank 1? mine doesnt like to release easily like bank 2 does. i think something inside it is damaged.

 

Man your on the right track.i hav'nt seen too many people have to do timing chains but sensors plenty just take your time go thru the FSM and all the testing procedures.and i would'nt listen to those saying you need a timing chain and that guy SAK is full of it dont even bother with his advice.check the all motor section also for solutions.

 

Btw your chain caint just jump timing unless you have disassembled it and if so you have bigger issues

 

my timing chain is knocking on the housing somewhere. that i know. i have not and will not open it myself since its a pita to do so by yourself and with the engine still in the car.

im going to have my local dealership open that up, since i have a friend there, and see which guide failed and replace it. i need to have them look at my tranny too while it is out of the car.

my other issues are a p0420 (the p0011 could be the root cause of this), sometimes a p0430 (seems to be on and off), and a p0340, (same thing.. comes and goes)

also found out i have a hole in my exhaust pipe AND a hold in my muffler which could be causing the 420 and 430

if i can fix the p0011, it will solve quite a few of my symptoms tho, so that is all i am concentrating on right now. had to pick up my son from school so now the engine is too hot to mess with anything. so i have to wait till later if i still have enough light to mess with it or wait til tomorrow to test the resistance.

i think when i am done with all of this, and i actually fix it, i am going to do a full write up and include pics for each step. this seems to be a hard one to diagnose and fix, so i think it would help all those effected.

 

i prefer to do diagnostics before i shell out money on parts that might be fine. thanks but dont offer advice on purchasing to someone who asks for diagnostic help

 

I HAD THE SAME CODE P0011. I CHANGED THE SENSOR. NOW THE CODE IS GONE. PROBLEM SOLVED. FOR ME THAT IS. FOR U??? GO FIGURE. GOOD LUCK THO.

 

IM FULL OF WHAT? I HAD THE SAME CODE. CHANGED THE SENSOR. NOW IM GOOD. SO WHAT U TALKING ABOUT? IF THE SENSOR DOESNT DO THE JOB, HE CAN ALWAYS SELL IT. I LOVE THIS SITE BUT SOME OF U TALK OUT OF UR @$$. YALL MUST HAVE SCARED MONEY IN UR WALLETS. LOL

 

You have a bad timing chain tensioner.
You'll thank me later

 

thats what my buddy at nissan thinks it is. he is going to order ever single parts and piece that is inside there just in case. whatever he doesnt need to use, he will just send back. the whole job is only going to cost me about $400, instead of the 2k they would normally charge.

 

for some people $80 is a lot to gamble with. i would rather take the time to diagnose things myself. any money i can save is precious.

 

that may have worked for you. it might not work for everyone who has this problem. which is why people like me prefer to diagnose a problem before administering treatment. this isn't HOUSE M.D.

 

$400 VS $80. UMMM OK. IF IM WRONG, ILL STAND CORRECTED. I CANT WAIT TO C WHAT THE OUTCOME IS.

 

$400 to pull the engine out, open up the timing chain housing, replace any damaged parts, put it back together and put the engine back in the car.

$80 for a sensor that might be fine.

you are comparing the cost of 2 separate jobs in an argument for 1 job.

the $400 jobs NEEDS to be done. i can't question that one.

the $80 sensor may not need to be replaced.

so as you can see i am looking at almost $500 leaving my pocket. as a disabled person on a limited fixed income, not having to spend $80 on a sensor means something to me.

 

not sure if this is correct.. i get resistance between pins 1 and 2, but nothing between 1-3 and 2-3 on either sensor, and the same thing on both crankshaft sensors. probably what the recall was all about. im gonna have to give the dealership a call and see if my car ever had the recall done.

 

I recently had the code P0420. I had my local shop diagnose the issue and he said the Bank #1 Cat Converter had to be replaced. He showed me that CAT and the inside of it was destroyed. The CAT was replaced last Saturday. On Wednesday, my check engine light came on. I went to Advanced Auto Parts to have them run the code and here it is: P0011.

 

OK KOOL. I UNDERSTAND. GOOD LUCK. HOPE EVERYTHING WORKS OUT FOR U.

 

Take out the sensor and thoroughly clean it with brake/parts cleaner. Spray a little cleaner into the oil passages.

Reassemble and be amazed :| Either it fixes it or it doesn't :P

 

after all my testing, a friend of mine opted to buy the sensor for me. love that guy

put it in, and the engine does NOT stay running. starts, and then struggles to keep going.. touch the gas and the rpms go up to about 1500 or so, then drops to 2-300 and bounces up and down.

disconnect the sensor and crank takes about 3 secs but will run fine.

i am at my wits end for this one.

 

THAT SOUNDS LIKE THE SAME THING THAT HAPPENED WHEN I NEEDED A NEW MAF. HMMM. NOT SAYING U NEED A NEW MAF THO. JUST SAYING.