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I have to admit that I am at a loss to figure this out. If you checked the continuity of the wire between the ECU and the coil and found it to be good, why would you want to run a replacement wire?
But more to the point, you need to figure out if the coil is getting the signal to fire. And for that matter, is the fuel injector getting its signal? Theoritically you need an oscilloscope for this, but maybe you can see the reading on a voltmeter jumping around.
Yes, I did check the continuity and it's fine. Maybe the wire is tripped somewhere and touches another wire. The coil is not getting signal.
Yes, I did check the continuity and it's fine. Maybe the wire is tripped somewhere and touches another wire. The coil is not getting signal.
Continuity doesn't mean anything, necessarily. That only means there's low enough resistance for a small amount of power to travel. Even measuring the actual resistance may not tell you jack.
Running new wire is the only way to know for sure.
I repaired a light socket and had continuity with near zero resistance, but almost no power crossed it. I no longer trust those tests haha.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; May 10, 2012 at 09:00 PM.
Yes, I did check the continuity and it's fine. Maybe the wire is tripped somewhere and touches another wire. The coil is not getting signal.
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Continuity doesn't mean anything, necessarily. That only means there's low enough resistance for a small amount of power to travel. Even measuring the actual resistance may not tell you jack.
Running new wire is the only way to know for sure.
I repaired a light socket and had continuity with near zero resistance, but almost no power crossed it. I no longer trust those tests haha.
Continuity can also be back feed through the harness. Check every wire in that bundle of harness the tsb talks about. Cause even small cracks or tears can cause a short or open to ground which can make seem like there is continuity, other than that find a known good ecm and test it.
Continuity can also be back feed through the harness. Check every wire in that bundle of harness the tsb talks about. Cause even small cracks or tears can cause a short or open to ground which can make seem like there is continuity, other than that find a known good ecm and test it.
I would, but where am i going to find exactly same ECM.
I would, but where am i going to find exactly same ECM.
Just talked to my master tech here at my nissan shop and he says the only way you can fix that code is by replace the factory plugs and factory coils. He stressed to replace them all otherwise its just gonna jump from cylinder to cylinder. I'm sorry that its the coils of all things. But he is a 10 year vet here and I trust his word, you should too. Good luck.
Just talked to my master tech here at my nissan shop and he says the only way you can fix that code is by replace the factory plugs and factory coils. He stressed to replace them all otherwise its just gonna jump from cylinder to cylinder. I'm sorry that its the coils of all things. But he is a 10 year vet here and I trust his word, you should too. Good luck.
Originally Posted by KillaKarebear
Continuity can also be back feed through the harness. Check every wire in that bundle of harness the tsb talks about. Cause even small cracks or tears can cause a short or open to ground which can make seem like there is continuity, other than that find a known good ecm and test it.
Just talked to my master tech here at my nissan shop and he says the only way you can fix that code is by replace the factory plugs and factory coils. He stressed to replace them all otherwise its just gonna jump from cylinder to cylinder. I'm sorry that its the coils of all things. But he is a 10 year vet here and I trust his word, you should too. Good luck.
There is factory coils there and the plugs are NGK. I do not believe there is a problem with either one of those.
There is factory coils there and the plugs are NGK. I do not believe there is a problem with either one of those.
Tested coils resistance dont work in this case. the coil is good but the transistor in the coil that receive the signal is bad. So your coils is good and bad at the same time.
Tested coils resistance dont work in this case. the coil is good but the transistor in the coil that receive the signal is bad. So your coils is good and bad at the same time.
How come the "bad" coil works just fine if swapped to another cylinder?
How come the "bad" coil works just fine if swapped to another cylinder?
Like I said it is but its not, it is the transistor is bad in it but replacing them will only fix the p1320 code. For the misfire code check your #4 injector with a know good one. I have a feeling that might be your problem. Maxima injectors have always been know to foul up. Sorry for the confusion early if i didn't make myself clear. And sorry for the late reply been very busy.
Like I said it is but its not, it is the transistor is bad in it but replacing them will only fix the p1320 code. For the misfire code check your #4 injector with a know good one. I have a feeling that might be your problem. Maxima injectors have always been know to foul up. Sorry for the confusion early if i didn't make myself clear. And sorry for the late reply been very busy.
No worries about the late response. Injector should be fine I think. I have checked all of the coils and I still have the P1320 code. I am looking into the ECU now. So we will see
No worries about the late response. Injector should be fine I think. I have checked all of the coils and I still have the P1320 code. I am looking into the ECU now. So we will see
Just keep in mind that the only known way to fix a p1320 code is to replace all the coils cuz the transistor in one or more of them is bad. There is no way to test which one is bad till you get a new OEM coil and start swapping your coils with it.
You can't rely on OHM reading from an injector cuz a bad one will still test good sometimes. If the new ECU don't fix it your misfire and the coil is good than its your injector. If you need a injector you can get one off any 99-01 Maxima(you might be able to get one off a older one but most 4th and 5th gens should have the same injectors but you should verify first).
KillaKarebear - I think what he's saying is that if he removes the #4 coil (which you say probably has a bad transistor) and swaps that coil with the one from, say, #2, he still gets the same cylinder 4 misfire, which tells him (and me) that it doesn't have to do with the coils, unless multiple are bad, but, in that case, it should cause a P0300 random/multiple misfire and/or multiple cylinder misfire codes (in the scenario described P0302, P0304).
I think what we're looking at here is an injector issue on number 4, a harness issue, or a troubled ECM. I think the OP is on the right track.
I would pull the rail and make sure that all the injectors are firing like they should. Get a container big enough to catch any and all fuel, pull the rail off with the injectors still connected, disconnect all the coils, and crank the engine. If you can use separate containers for each of the injectors that would be best. Otherwise, this is a two man operation, as one of you will have to watch the injectors to make sure each one fires. That will tell you pretty clearly if #4's injector is really spraying fuel or not. Just a thought.
KillaKarebear - I think what he's saying is that if he removes the #4 coil (which you say probably has a bad transistor) and swaps that coil with the one from, say, #2, he still gets the same cylinder 4 misfire, which tells him (and me) that it doesn't have to do with the coils, unless multiple are bad, but, in that case, it should cause a P0300 random/multiple misfire and/or multiple cylinder misfire codes (in the scenario described P0302, P0304).
I think what we're looking at here is an injector issue on number 4, a harness issue, or a troubled ECM. I think the OP is on the right track.
I would pull the rail and make sure that all the injectors are firing like they should. Get a container big enough to catch any and all fuel, pull the rail off with the injectors still connected, disconnect all the coils, and crank the engine. If you can use separate containers for each of the injectors that would be best. Otherwise, this is a two man operation, as one of you will have to watch the injectors to make sure each one fires. That will tell you pretty clearly if #4's injector is really spraying fuel or not. Just a thought.
-Nathan
That is exactly what I am trying to say. I have another 5th gen that I use as daily driver (no codes, runs like new). I took all coils from the daily and swapped it into the project one. Guess what.. still P1320 and P0304. I have checked spark plugs, coils, signal wire many times. They all check out fine. The problem is most likely the ECU. That's what I am looking into right now. If that does not solve it I will look into the injector again.
No worries mate. Though, I do recommend the injector test first since it's easier. As a matter of fact, it may be that the injector is operating properly but is clogged. Might be easier to do, and will definitely be the cheaper fix if that's what it ends up being. Keep us posted.
KillaKarebear - I think what he's saying is that if he removes the #4 coil (which you say probably has a bad transistor) and swaps that coil with the one from, say, #2, he still gets the same cylinder 4 misfire, which tells him (and me) that it doesn't have to do with the coils, unless multiple are bad, but, in that case, it should cause a P0300 random/multiple misfire and/or multiple cylinder misfire codes (in the scenario described P0302, P0304).
I think what we're looking at here is an injector issue on number 4, a harness issue, or a troubled ECM. I think the OP is on the right track.
I would pull the rail and make sure that all the injectors are firing like they should. Get a container big enough to catch any and all fuel, pull the rail off with the injectors still connected, disconnect all the coils, and crank the engine. If you can use separate containers for each of the injectors that would be best. Otherwise, this is a two man operation, as one of you will have to watch the injectors to make sure each one fires. That will tell you pretty clearly if #4's injector is really spraying fuel or not. Just a thought.
-Nathan
Swapping the coil is only for the misfire code. Like a I said before the only known way to fix the p1320 code is to replace all the coils unless its the ECU. But if he has changed them with the daily driver than i would think its the ECU too. But as far as the misfire goes I still think it's an injector. It's really the only component left. I also agree with Nathan on how to find the injector that is acting up(if any at all). I would use Gatorade bottles on each injector. I would also compare it to the other injectors and watch on the spray pattern on make sure they all act the same.
Swapping the coil is only for the misfire code. Like a I said before the only known way to fix the p1320 code is to replace all the coils unless its the ECU. But if he has changed them with the daily driver than i would think its the ECU too. But as far as the misfire goes I still think it's an injector. It's really the only component left. I also agree with Nathan on how to find the injector that is acting up(if any at all). I would use Gatorade bottles on each injector. I would also compare it to the other injectors and watch on the spray pattern on make sure they all act the same.
Definitely right. The spray pattern can tell you if there is any kind of clog or obstruction inside the injector that could be causing a problem.
I'm assuming bad ECUs must be very rare aside from the 4th gen IACV thing. You never want to think it is until you have to haha
Ain't that the truth. I'm starting to think that my P0300 misfire is due to a bad ECU, since nothing else has worked, but I've been avoiding it like the plague.
I'm assuming bad ECUs must be very rare aside from the 4th gen IACV thing. You never want to think it is until you have to haha
Not really. I fixed it for cheap just took a while. Put all parts I pulled out back on the car including ECU for 30 mins. Now I need to take the car in for detail.
Ain't that the truth. I'm starting to think that my P0300 misfire is due to a bad ECU, since nothing else has worked, but I've been avoiding it like the plague.
-Nathan
If your plugs are new, coils too, continuity checks fine on the wires and your injectors are good, then chances are your ECU is gone. Look on ebay. They got everything on there.
Havin the same problem replaced ECU and nothing going to swap engine harnesses now
Double check everything after you swapped the ECU. I still had the same issue after the swap in turned out I forgot a bad coil in that cylinder after so much swapping. Check plug, coil, signal wire and injector before you get new harness.
That is my problem. ECU is good, wire checks out good, coil is good, plug is good and still no signal and therefore no spark on cylinder 4. I am getting really frustrated with this car
I have a 96 Nissan Maxima with the exact same problem no spark on cylinder 4 to the coil somebody's gotta help us
