Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

I've tried to read up on this, see if it is an issue that is becoming common. I have broken 3 studs in the last month! Broke one today while I was working on replacing the one I broke last Wednesday!

I know the first stud was broken by a slightly warped cross bar. The second was possibly due to the same issue, but I had been careful. The third stud I threaded by hand with the wheel off(was securing rotor to hub so to remove the brake caliper and bracket).

I blamed the cross bar after the second stud, once I realized it was bent. But after threading the one by hand and it jamming, I felt I needed to see if anyone else has run into this issue with the age of our cars.

This is the first time I've had to replace studs on any of my Maximas. Never even on my '89 turbo, and I've had her for fourteen years!

Anyone else have this issue? I'm thinking to just go ahead and replace them all. I'm just glad I bought an extra stud while I was at the dealer yeasterday. Studs are cheap, I hate buying new lug nuts......$3 a peice is getting expensive!!

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

I haven't had this issue specifically, but I'll offer how I maintain mine when they begin to bind a bit. Slowly run the correct size tap through each nut that feels like it may have excessive friction. You can also run a die over the studs when you have access to them as well.

Also, a cross threaded nut is usually the last suspect because the threads aren't as visible. It's easy to jumble the wheel nuts and put a nut with ugly thread on a perfectly good stud and cause cross threading on it as well. Maybe you had one bad nut and it 'infected' all three studs?

Blue Mesa

I broke a stud while tying to loosen one of my locking lug nuts. It apparently was cross threaded. Last person to take off the tires was discount tire co, who was installing a replacement set of locking wheel nuts (after having the tires balanced one of my original locking nuts fell off, they replaced the whole set for free). Needless to say, after having one set fall off, and a replacement set break a stud, I no longer do business with them.

That being said, I definitely do think the stock wheel studs are weak. Im by no means a big guy and I managed to twist the darn stud into two pieces, with one half stuck in the locking nut.

Mr. Brett

iTrader: (7)

Chris, do you by chance use an impact, or has anyone previously used an impact recently to re-install your lug nuts? I watched a shop cross-thread and strip THREE on one wheel on my friend's Honda Accord, because the moron using the impact had no idea how to start the lug nut by hand before zapping it with the impact.

I actually had to walk out into the shop, much to the owner's annoyance, and tell the kid to stop before he stripped out all five.

Not saying that you don't know how to operate an impact. But watching people *zap zap zap* lug nuts on and off like a daily driven car is a NASCAR. That has to be bad for the lug nuts over time.

NismoAce

iTrader: (6)

I know its a lot more work and money but Maybe its time just to get new wheel bearings and hubs. New studs are included with the hub!

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Mr. Brett: No, I don't use an impact. But I have had my wheels off and on a lot. in the past year doing tires, brakes, rotors, rotation, lowering, etc. There has been one shop that I've taken the car to that uses impact. They don't run the pressure high, as I can break them loose easily after they've done any work. But, I'll accept I may be over tightening.

I'm also thinking part of it may be the fact that the 350z rims are sooooo deep, you can't do anything but start them with a crossbar or extended socket. I assume even if I started the lug bolts properly, if I (or anyone else) had threaded them with the bar or socket at an angle, it could bugger the threads.

I like the suggestion of running tap/die over the studs and lug bolts to clean them up. I'm looking now at having to buy my 12th new lug bolt from Nissan....ugh.

I appreciate the suggestion, but I don't seem to need new bearings. Sounds like a lot of cost at the moment....just to replace studs that cost only $1.50 each and take two minutes replace. If I do end up having to get new bearings/replacing the hub.....be for sure I will pull and hold onto the new studs I've already installed!!


Thanks for all the input guys!

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

I have had 7 studs replaced in the past month. I have watched them start them by hand, gently drive them in with the impact gun and torque them appropriately. Next time they take them off, one or two are seized - what gives


I asked the shop to just replace them all but they talked me out of it - I don't think thy wanted to deal with it, but another one broke this weekend so I'm definitely going back...

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Yup, I've decided I am definately going to replace the rest of the old studs on the front next time wheels are off.

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

I would say the biggest detriment for studs/nuts are impact guns. Even with supposed 'controlled' torque settings or torque sticks, there is a great possibility to over-torque the nuts. Also, the speed at which an impact runs through the threads generates a lot of heat in the material which can cause degradation of the threads. The older the fasteners, the more corrosion and wear that adds friction which increases the heat even further. Everyone loves the sound of zipping on the wheel nuts like a pit crew member, but the safest way is to thread at a slow to moderate pace.

Amave

wth is happening here????


I have never had to replace any studs due to over tightening or seizing in the past 2 years i got my Maxima.

Sounds like you guys are either letting someone cross thread, over tighten or are using open ended lug nuts causing a seize issue on the studs.


FWIW i slather on anti-seize on my studs before putting on my lugnuts, maybe thats what is needed ?

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

especially at their age...

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Hmmmm.