I just bought a 2000 gle with the check engine light on. The dealer has had to coils replaced, new plugs and wires. The Nissan dealer told him there is nothing wrong. Some times it comes on and somethimes it dosn't. Just wonding if there are any simple checks or things to look for when I pick it up tommorrow.

 

get codes and post here! there are no plug wires in our cars!

 

Nope. You're screwed...

 

If you're getting it from a dealer, I would make them scan the code as soon as the MIL comes back on and at least inform you of the code it's reporting. An intermittent MIL may not be a problem now, but it would VERY beneficial to know what sort of trouble the ECU is detecting, even if it doesn't detect it all the time. This is a sign that a particular part could be coming to the end of it's road.

-Nathan

 

I will get ahold of a scanner but I was told there were no codes. I have a Ford Escape that has a similar issue with the air bag light no codes and the dealer said it is a ghost light.

 

Well, the ECU will usually keep an internal log of all the codes it has reported until they are cleared by an external source. Sometimes, the only way to get that info and clear the code history is through a much more advanced monitor like Nissan Consult or the like.

But at the same time, I have a Cornwell handheld scanner that will pick up ghost codes. I have a P0300 (Misfire) code that is sometimes a ghost (MIL comes on or blinks, then goes off before I'm even around the next block), and my scanner picks it up and labels it as a separate condition code (Non-MIL illuminating or "Ghost"). So it might still be in there for you to find without expensive equipment.

-Nathan

 

Thanks alot for the info. I will check it out tommorrow as soon as I get it. What scanner model do you have? I have been looking into an inexpensive scanner.

 

It's a Cornwell OWC9575. It's an older Cornwell that I've had for a couple years now, but it still does very well, and at only $140 new, I was surprised at how well it worked. Still works just the same as when it was new, no trouble with it at all. There are quite a few more options in that price range nowadays though.

Check out Matco, Cornwell, Innova, and Blue Point. Units like Actron and Equus are ok, and inexpensive, so you can usually get more features and versatility with either of those, but you get guaranteed quality with any of the first four. I've never used Actron or Equus, so I can't speak on how durable they are, run data refresh rates, etc., but if you're on a budget, they might be good bang for your buck. Especially if you just want one for personal use, and aren't planning on putting it through the rigors of everyday full-service shop use.

-Nathan

 

I have been looking at cornwell and blue point for a little wile. I hate my matco guy so I think they are out. Thanks for the info.

 

Here's a killer deal if you are interested:

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3120-Di...056635&sr=1-19

That's an excellent scanner, and that price is stupid good for it. I'm considering getting one myself now that I've found it. Lol. Might be willing to sell you my Cornwell scanner for cheap if I pick that one up if you want it. Haha.

-Nathan

 

I now have the car and it has a P1320 code( ignition engine speed input circut malfunction). It also has the TCS OFF and SLIP lights on. I saw the receipts and the spark plugs, coils and two injectors were replaced.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2000/ec.pdf

Go to page 369, and read through from there. If it's not the ignition coil, it could be the crankshaft position sensor, so you might check that as well. But that link will give you just about all the info you need to sort that out. Keep us updated.

-Nathan

 

There's actually two crankshaft position sensors.

 

You paid the dealer to replace all the coils and all the pugs and 2 injectors?

 

No they were replaced before I bought it. It didn't fix the problem so they didn't want to stick anymore money into it. All the repairs were done by a Nissan delear. That kinda suprised me that they would just throw parts at it and just let it go that way. I know if I would do that were I work and let it go out the door unfixed I would get my *** chewed.

 

Well, as a shop manager I can tell you that if a customer requests that certain work be done, then you just do that work even if it doesn't necessarily solve the actual issue. The most you can do is make a professional recommendation as to what might fix the problem, but if the customer decides they don't want to spend any more money on it, then there's not much more you can do except let it go out the door.

-Nathan

 

I am doing the tests in the manual but I can't seem to find the condensor to test it. Does anyone know where it is located?

 

I believe its in the taped up wires that are just above the valve cover( closest to the radiator)

 

Ok I just have part of test 15 left on page EC-379 and I am done. I tested terminals 21, 22, 23, 30, 31, 32 to ground and power. Oddly terminals 21, 22, 23, and 32 had continuity to ground at varying resistances. 30 and 31 were good. None had short to power. I didn't get to check the terminals to the coil terminal 1. I then plugged the ecm connector back in and the lights went out. Does anyone have a clue to where my short could be and why would the lights go out now? Any ideas would be great.

 

do you mean the lights went out that now when you turn the key you are getting nothing ? or that the check engine light is out ?

 

The check engine light is off when the car is started.

 

weird could have been anything you touched i know there was a tsb on 02 sensors coming up and 1 of the fixes was that the connector wasnt keeping it tight enough on the ecu but they didnt list the 1320 code as coming up for that cant seem to find that tsb now . but id wait and see if the code came back .

 

Bad news. I got to drive it three times then the light came back on. I guess I will finish the last test tommorrow am then start looking for a place where I can have a short to ground.

 

Dissregard yesterdays tests. I thought the pin diagram in the manual was for the connector but it was for the ecm. I did all the tests over today. The all haave resistance to each end. There is no resistance to positive. When I left the connectors unhooked there was no resistance to ground but when they were hooked up there was resistance to ground (1.2 to 1.6ohms). The manual dosn't say if they are supose to be hooked up or not. I also wonder why the check engine light goes off a couple times after the connector is disconnected and hooked back up again? All the tests check out ok. I don't have any idea what to check now. Anybody have any ideas???

 

Nice.Im saving this just in case.

Thank you!

 

so you said the dealer replaced all of the coil packs? and do they have a grey dot on them ?

 

I printed off the whole section starting at page 369 to 386 and did all the tests. I even unhooked the crank sensor and it did take longer to start so the sensor shold be good. The dealer did replace the coils. I just ran outside and looked. I don't see a grey dot. Where should the dot be? Thank you guys for your help!!

 

The dot would be right on top of the coil . its possible one of the new ones they put in is no good did you test the coils themselves ? how is the car running ? any hesitation?

 

I tested them and they all tested good. The car seems to run good. It starts as soon as you hit they key and you can squeal the tires. I don't see any dots. What is the reason for the dots?

 

The dot on them means they are the new style oem ones that are supposedly better than the ones that were originally on the car and when i say oem i mean bought from nissan a lot of people have bought coils that were not from nissan and had the 1320 code still on . im sure eventually the code for which one it is will rear its ugly head lol . my gfs car had same code and took about 2 weeks after for it to show up but hers was pretty bad when it happened bad loss of power and ses actually flashing like crazy . car ran fine when it was cool but when it got hot that coil pack would act up .

 

Thats funny because they were bought from Nissan and the dealer put on almost 4000 after he had it there and had them installed. I will do some more checking and see what happens.

 

I am super confused now. I went through and rechecked everything again and everything checks out good. I used a mechanics stehescope to check the injectors when the car was running and they all sounded the same. Now I went and hooked up the code reader and cleared the code and started it right away and drove it and the light never came on and the code didn't show up. My question is could I have a bad ECU and why does it work when cleared and started right away, but when i clear it and let it sit and go and start it the light comes on. I am totaly lost now.

 

where are you located?

 

Wisconsin.
I forgot to say that I put 93 in it and I went from 28 mpg's on 87 to 25 mpg's on 93. That dosn't seem right to me.

 

no it doesnt it should have gone up . how many tanks with the premium ?
. i re-read the earlier posts do you still have the slip light tcs lights on ?

 

Just one full tank of premium so far. Yes the tcs and slip light are on when the engine light is on. When I clear the code and run the car all three lights are off.