Problem started Friday morning when I came out from work and car would not start.

SYMPTOMS: When I turn the key, all dash lights come on, none of the interior lights are dimming and clock has not reset. There is not a clicking sound.

Someone jumped it and off I went. Drove about 35 minutes to a buddies house and turned car off. Came back out about an hour later, car started up and we drove to New Jersey (~3 hours). Car sat for a few hours, then I drove it about 2 miles to a bar and back.

Saturday morning it would not start again. Same symptoms as before. Got a jump and drove it back to buddies house (~3 hours). Come outside about an hour later and car won't start.

Went to strip club (not relevant...LOL)

Notice battery terminals are a little corroded, so I dump some coke on it to clean it off.

Sunday morning jump car again and drive back home (~45 minutes). Stop at Advance Auto and get a battery/starter test. All tests pass. When I go to start it after tests, it hesitates, but starts up. Take it home and let it sit in driveway hooked up to my battery tender for about 6 hours. Go back outside and car starts up and I think all is well.

Monday morning my mom says she started up right up and turned it off. I go outside around 12pm and it won't start. Also notice it's low on water. I top it off and put it back on the battery tender. Around 2pm it starts right up so I think all is well. Around 5pm I remove battery tender and attempt to start with no luck. Now I know it has the proper water levels, fully charged, corrosion free/tight posts.

Here's the weird thing. On my last attempt, I messed around with the force I was using to start it and on about the 7th try, it started up. What could possibly be the problem????

 

Does it crank over normal, slow, or does it make any noises when the engine is turning? If it starts normal (when it does start), I'm willing to bet it's the starter solenoid.

 

WHEN it does start, its' business as usual. Starts up quick and no weird noises at all.

MEMORY JOG. a few times over the course of the last year, I guess, when cranking the car, it would start about 90% then shut off. But once I tried cranking it again, it cranked right up on those instances. Never really thought anything of it

 

It's either the starter, or you have a bad connection on one of the battery or starter wires (either loose connection or broken/corroded wire).

 

How does one narrow it down? And doesn't the Advance Auto test rule out the starter being bad?

 

Just put the new battery and get it over with! If jump start works, it means it is the battery or the connection to the battery. Don't let somebody else sell you starter or alternator (assuming you are not getting BATT+BRAKE red light on the dash during running).

Even if the battery is only three year old, just a get a new one. It costs $50-$75. Even if lasts less than three years, it is still insignificant amount compared to everything else that you put in the car.

My rule:- When I need a jump start, a new battery gets put in. As a matter of fact, I drive straight to the store and keep the car running while picking up the new battery. No exception to this rule.

- Vikas

 

That was the approach I was taking when I took it to Advance Auto. But once the vehicle passed the Battery/Starter test, I did not feel that the battery was the issue. I don't have a problem buying a new battery, I just want to ensure that is actually the problem first.

I just came from outside and the car started right up. It has been sitting for over 12 hours since my last attempt. I then pulled out the voltmeter and took measurements.

Vehicle off: 12.9V
Vehicle running: 14.2V

I'm no ASC certified technician (which is why I'm asking here), but it "seems" to me that the battery is fine

 

Now you have to start digging deeper. Keep the voltmeter with you. See if you can rig it up so that you can monitor the voltage all the time. Check the drop during cranking. If your car is like mine, it probably starts instantly but you might still be able to see the voltage during the cranking. If you see under 9V, you may still have a weak battery. You can get it load tested. If you still have starting problem, then you have to find if you have leakage current. And if that is random i.e. not constant leakage, you will be in a big mess as far as diagnosis is concerned :-( Even tracking down constant leakage can be challenge. Before you hurl yourself to that task, you owe yourself to put a new battery. This experience talking! As a personal challenge, I manage to nurse the OEM battery from my 2000 Maxima for years. I even added water and managed to squeeze another year. But in retrospect, that was plainly stupid and unnecessary.

I have had a battery which was only couple years old and would randomly die on me. I spent too much time going through the entire current drain etc until I finally just put a new battery even though it was testing fine. Guess what, my problems were fixed! As a matter of fact, I started getting some random indicator lights on the dash this year. Did the same thing, replaced the three year old battery.

In the scheme of things, if it has given you couple years, the battery does not owe you anything. But you might be lucky and you could get the prorated refund on it :-)

When a cell dies within, battery has trouble holding the charge. You might see the 12V on it on no-load but will not be able to provide the necessary starting current.

 

UPDATE:

Yesterday I went outside and car started right up. Ran some errands, stopping at 3 different stores. Car started each time. I remembered I have the Scan Gauge II, so I hooked that up and noticed battery sits around 12V when car is powered off. Once started and idling around 700rpm, the battery is between 13.9 and 14.1V. I drove it to work last night and when I came out this morning, the car started right up. I watched the Scan Gauge II and while starting, it dropped to 10V briefly, but returned to the 13.9-14.1V range once started.

I still don't know what was the problem Friday-Sunday, but it hasn't happened again (YET). The only things I've done was clean the posts/terminals and fill the battery with water. I may just purchase an extra battery today and throw it in the trunk just to give me peace of mind if the problem decides to rear it's ugly head again. Thanks for the help so far guys.

 

Is it possible that when you needed jump, it was just a coincidence that jump was successful? If that is the case, then you might have problem with the starter relay or starter contacts. I do not know if Maxima has Denso starter. If so, those can be easily fixed by replacing their contacts which usually do wear out. Weak battery and starter not engaging can have similar symptoms but with the ScanGauge hooked up now, you will be able to differentiate.

A failing starter relay/contact would manifest itself as intermittent no-crank condition. Especially when you mentioned that just trying the key few times got it started for you. A weak battery would remain weak and would not have allowed the car to start later.

 

That's what I figured about the battery. If it was bad, it would have remained bad. So for arguments sake, let's take the battery out of the equation. How do I go about troubleshooting the starter relay/contact?

Thanks for your help so far.

 

Have you tried putting a full load on the battery? For instance; a/c or heat on high blast, high beams on, and radio? This does make a difference when you get a reading. Like it was said a above it could be a short or corroded cable!

As for the relay, you should have one to swap it over with.

As for the starter, mine went out on my Jeep XJ and I was hoping I can jump the connections to crank it over instead of pulling the darn thing out, but no luck...so much gunk build-up between oil and dirt since the oil filter was right above the starter! It was easier just to remove a few nuts, take it out, clean it up, and run it down to Advance Auto Parts so they can throw it on there tester. Make sure you get someone who knows what there doing! I guess my starter had a flat spot, I replaced the alternator and battery(yellow top optima) just two months prior to this incident. So lucky for me, I was able to kind of narrow it down from there.

Best of luck!

V/r,
awsgrayrd.

 

Just ran outside to perform load test. Prior to starting, battery was showing 12.9V. It didn't drop while starting this time. Once started, battery level was 13.8-14.0V. I turned on A/C full blast, high beams, radio and satellite radio. Readings stayed between 13.8-14.0V.

I guess it's going to be hard to narrow down a problem that is no longer presenting any symptoms. FML

 

The problem is highlighted.

None of htis means jack. This just means the alternator is putting out the proper VOLTAGE.

This says nothing about the Amperage, which is what's used to charge your battery.

Likewise a battery can read 13V, but once a draw (starting) is put on it, it will drop off drastically, sometimes to 3v or less.

You need that battery LOAD TESTED with a Carbon pile/AVR machine. By a shopt that has a clue what they're doing, not a parts store.

This AVR machine also properly tests the starter (with a knowledgable operator). And will point you toward bad connecitons/wires if applicable.

 

Thanks for your assistance. Guess I have to start calling around to see who has that machine and how much they'll charge to run the test. Also in reference to the highlighted portion of your response, I have it connected to my Scan Gauge II and watched it while starting it. It did not drop below 12V. Is that test also unreliable?

 

Starter solenoid again, eh?
That problem can be so sporadic that testing methodology means nothing (other than ruling out the battery b/c no dimming or clicking).

 

Monitoring Battery voltage while cranking is part of testing properly, yup!~

You need to disconnect your fuel pump so the car won't start and crank for a few seconds to get an accurate reading during this test. This is one way to perform a Starter/Battery test without a AVR/Carbon Pile. You're using the starter to load the battery.

But amperage is unknown, and that's important.

 

not sure if this helps but i was having pretty much the same problem with my 2001 GLE and after 2 batteries and testng my starter twice at autozone and pepboys nothing was found or fixed the problem so i called my cousin who is a mechanic and i had 2 things wrong. one was on the positive battery cable where the fuse is there is a bolt that connects the wire to the terminal clamp that had corroded between the plates (the terminal was clean no corrosion). the second problem was the starter solenoid was bad and we tested starting until it failed, if it failed i was told to keep the ignition on and not let go while he tapped the starter with a hammer and sure enough it started up. after i replaced the starter 2 months ago i have not had a problem since...

Thanks
James

 

OP. I finally got hte time to re-read this thread.

sounds like The above poster may be right on the mark with your potential issue. You still need proper testing to arrive at the problem, but I think your alternator or the charge wire to the battery is bad, based soley off your 'story' so far.

A bad connection is likely because this issue is somewhat intermittent. But that doesn't rule out the alternator, starter, or battery. Testing is still required and highly recommended. The 5th gen alternator is pretty decent and not as prone to failure as the old 4th gen's were (notorious, those buggers were.)

 

On my 2000 GXE, battery, alternator and starter all died within a month of each other @ about 160K. First alternator started whining and BATT?BRAKE light came on briefly. Under load, alternator was barely able to keep the voltage above the battery voltage. That meant putting new alternator. After new alternator was put, battery was load tested and it was at about 60%. So it was replaced too. In few weeks, the starter was going weak and I thought new battery was bad. I have a sharp and trusted mechanic who diagnosis as failing starter and put a new one in.

By the way, my positive cable connection was completely corroded and needed to be replaced. When I tried to tighten the clamp, it disintegrated on me. I put a vice grip on it and drove to my mechanic who replaced the fancy connector.

 

^that's a case of one component in the system taking another out.

Snowball effect. Charging/Starting systems are famous for this. Root cause varies but could be something like a bad wire or terminal, etc, who knows. This is why proper diagnosis is so important. Especially when you're putting new components on, you want to know they'll survive.

 

Left my hazards on once by accident all day and came to my car maybe 16 hours later and got no power at all....jumped it,let it run maybe half hour no problems since then starting it......optima red battery by the way. Also my starter wasn't starting couple of times maybe once every few months this will happen for some weird reason even tho power is fine....couple taps with my bat on starter while friend tried starting did the trick....need a friend otherwise use feet lol

 

Google or youtube "Denso starter contact". This is extremely common problem on Toyota. I do not know for sure if Maxima has similar Denso starter. At least on Denso, one can get another 100K out of it by just replacing the contacts (and optionally the plunger). Other starters might not be built like that and when they go, one might replace the whole thing rather than repairing them.

 

Sorry folks, I was out of town. Thanks for all the replies. I'm starting to think there's something wrong with the starter. Saturday morning it wouldn't start. Scan Gauge showed battery at 12.9V. I turned the key a few times and it started on about the 4th or 5th attempt. So that leads me to believe the battery/alternator is not the problem. I could be wrong. I'll have to take it in this week to be looked at. But I'm sure it's not going to be replicated when I take it in and I'm gonna look like an idiot.....LOL

 

Sounds like a starter possibly. Can't say for sure without more conclusive info. But starters are the weakest link in our system.

 

It is NOT battery/alternator.

Verify that your neutral safety switch / clutch interlock relay is working (for manual transmission). If automatic, try to put in neutral and start and/or wiggle the shifter.

I also realized that Nissan starter is NOT the Denso one. So forget about fixing the contacts. You will have to put a good quality new/rebuilt one in it. My mechanic put a Bosch one.

Here is the extract from FSM, sorry for the formatting.

M/T MODELS
NFSC0004S01
Power is supplied at all times
I through 40A fusible link (letter c, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
I to ignition switch terminal 1.
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I through terminal 5 of the ignition switch
I to clutch interlock relay terminal 5.
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I through 10A fuse [No. 21, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to clutch interlock relay terminal 1.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, ground is supplied to clutch interlock relay terminal 2 through the clutch
interlock switch and body grounds E11, E22 and E53.
The clutch interlock relay is energized and power is supplied
I from terminal 3 of the clutch interlock relay
I to terminal 2 of the starter motor windings.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.
A/T MODELS
NFSC0004S02
Power is supplied at all times
I through 40A fusible link (letter c, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
I to ignition switch terminal 1.
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
I through 15A fuse [No. 20, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to park/neutral position relay terminal 1.
Also, with the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I from ignition switch terminal 5
I to park/neutral position relay terminal 6.
Ground is supplied, with the selector lever in the P or N position
I to park/neutral position relay terminal 2
I through park/neutral position switch.
The park/neutral position relay is energized and power is supplied
I from ignition switch terminal 5
I through park/neutral position relay terminals 6 and 7
I to terminal 2 of the starter motor windings.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.

 

It is NOT battery/alternator.

Verify that your neutral safety switch / clutch interlock relay is working (for manual transmission). If automatic, try to put in neutral and start and/or wiggle the shifter.

I also realized that Nissan starter is NOT the Denso one. So forget about fixing the contacts. You will have to put a good quality new/rebuilt one in it. My mechanic put a Bosch one.

Here is the extract from FSM, sorry for the formatting.

M/T MODELS
NFSC0004S01
Power is supplied at all times
I through 40A fusible link (letter c, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
I to ignition switch terminal 1.
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I through terminal 5 of the ignition switch
I to clutch interlock relay terminal 5.
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I through 10A fuse [No. 21, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to clutch interlock relay terminal 1.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, ground is supplied to clutch interlock relay terminal 2 through the clutch
interlock switch and body grounds E11, E22 and E53.
The clutch interlock relay is energized and power is supplied
I from terminal 3 of the clutch interlock relay
I to terminal 2 of the starter motor windings.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.
A/T MODELS
NFSC0004S02
Power is supplied at all times
I through 40A fusible link (letter c, located in the fuse and fusible link box)
I to ignition switch terminal 1.
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
I through 15A fuse [No. 20, located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to park/neutral position relay terminal 1.
Also, with the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I from ignition switch terminal 5
I to park/neutral position relay terminal 6.
Ground is supplied, with the selector lever in the P or N position
I to park/neutral position relay terminal 2
I through park/neutral position switch.
The park/neutral position relay is energized and power is supplied
I from ignition switch terminal 5
I through park/neutral position relay terminals 6 and 7
I to terminal 2 of the starter motor windings.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.

 

I had this very same problem on one of my past cars. I'm not sure if it applies to the Maxima since I havent owned mine long enough to know my way around the engine compartment, but I'll throw my thoughts out there anyway.

Like I stated, my problem was exactly what you're describing; intermittent no start, battery, starter and alternator test functional. My problem turned out to be a corroded engine ground. About 75% of the time my car wouldn't start but all electrical was functioning. I finally figured it out after I noticed that a jump start would only work when the negative cable was clamped to a good ground on my engine.

$12 in parts and my problem was fixed.

Next time your Max doesn't start, try taking a pair of jumper cables and only attach the black side to the negative terminal on your battery and the other end of the cable to a good ground on your engine, then turn the car over.Hopefully it will start right up for you.

 

89 maxima Replaced starter, started for a minute, some smoke came from under the hood, (Not sure from where)died, Smelled like gas. Battery wasn't completely charged so charged it. Also, someone did some unknowledgable alterations on the car. It doesn't have the proper positive cable on it. So, I picked One up only theres an extra wire I don't Know where it goes, and the red and black wire is connected from the starter to somewhere thats not the cable. HELP

 

Did you check the threads for your year? This is the 5th gen section 200-2003