Hey all this filter talk how about a link cause i think this KN panel filter may hace been what killed my 2 maf's i didnt oil it this last time

 

Sometimes they just come with too much oil.

Here:
http://apexi-usa.com/shop/index.php/...er.html?cat=64

 

Hello Delivery Please
#C5 extra shrimp no rice
2 orders shrimp toast
2 shrimp spring rolls
1 bag crispy noodle

 

yup thats what happens when u buy a car from up state... this doesnt even happen here in MD.... well definately not like this.... locals here have been calling me out saying im scared to race and use this as an excuse because my hood wouldnt close lol... now when you look at the pics does this really look like an excuse??... all these lame newbs around want a quick shot at me because they knew i was injured lol

 

I know that rust first hand the 97 had it but only after my niece had the car in NY for 2 semesters and a accident that was hidden from me

 

Pool in the AM lol... then to cleaning the car .. i love my car right now... hey CJ im telling ya, throw the headers on there bro... lil more pep and enjoy the extra MPG... your gonna wish you did...

 

Maby after i get the cars in better shape i know the 03 needs a ac compressor i was in such a rush when i dropped tje motor in it i really over tightened the belt so much that i think i should change the crank pulley too just to be safe

 

yup, even JP took a cheap shot to for me to race his baby mothers stock FX35 smh... i asked all of them to honestly answer why would they think i would actually be afraid to race a car thats not suppose to win the races they want me to run lol... i also ask do they honestly deep down in their hearts think when they ask me to race my heart skips beats in fear???.... still no answer lol... last question i asked (everybody but JP), where was all ther talk when my 5.5 was a 6MT... left it there and convo still left there

 

Hell Yeah, that looked bad, I wouldnt be speeding No Where if that was me, just keeping it Slow, Love the Cali Weather...

 

the cosmo pulley is only $81 shipped to your door... do it... i telling you, the car will be in better shape with it.. how about this... i should be getting a set of headers, you can have em for free if u like, for coils... if not im still getting the coils lmao

 

lol i assumed you missed where the hood flew up on me when the support gave out...
@50 mph the hood flew open... yet they wanted me to race like that lmao

 

I can honestly say i have only raced 1 person sense i have owned nissans and that was a guy in a 2010 C? Vette from the tollbooth on rt 13 in middletown all the way to dover i bet he didnt even see me after the first mile i was angry and warning was on the radio

 

this is me trying to make it home after the headers install lol... pardon the interior dust... the car was left open in a parking space on a military base in non operating conditions lol... the cord you see holding my hood is my keychain........... its been rough lol

 

No modding of the pulley?and i have a bnib cattman full system from that batch everyone complained about the flange holes i just want to get them coated to protect them

 

Did you smoke him?

 

NOPE... THEY SELL EM FOR THE 95-01 AND 00-03.... i had both lol just gotta buy smaller belt (ac compressor belt i believe)

 

Did u find a hood yet? If not when clashez desides to man up ill sell u his for $1

 

screw the racing.... better MPG and sounds more manly

 

I got plans for that clown car when i get my hands on it gonna ne like a auction at a dollar store

 

How bout make a donation and get to take swings at it with a sledgehammer?

 

yea, im buying a 5.5 trunk also $60 from a local in a few weeks as mines have a lil rust.. the hood im getting from the junk yard or here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-01-02-03-...f92c1c&vxp=mtr

 

Dibs on the CF trunk lid before it gets destroyed

 

clashez car actually looks good IMO... only thing killing me is the wheel gap n no camber in the front to make it somewhat flush lol

 

Pulley only 62$ now on they site

 

Lmao you stll need a trunk?yo why you send that crazy weather from out your way to me it ruined my whole im gonna eat a cow and a 6pack of chickens then wash it down with summin off the endangered species list plan i had cause treehuggin wife is gone

 

lol... i said shipped

 

I wouldn't be rockin that roof rack, but different strokes for different folks

 

^^this guy shows up all random cracks on someone the disappears for a few hours

 

It didn't rain much at all here today. Heard a couple rumbles of thunder in the evening but most of it missed north.

 

Change your name to Super Ninja Quoter

 

Yall used your westren witchcraft to send it my way

 

 

Yeah missed that one....Crazy **** right there.....

 

Ghustle...how did you break the hood, seriously?!

When I totaled the old max the hood latch was F'd. It popped up around 40 and I ran that ***** up to 60 trying to break it more.

It didn't work. The hood closed just fine aside from using wire, so I could see when driving .

 

Components:
R1 100 K Ohm
R2 1 M Ohm
R3 100 K Ohm
R4 10 K Ohm
C1 4.7 uF
C2 22 uF
D1 1.7v@20mA LED
D2 1.7v@20mA LED

Hookup:
Power source - Ignition, or to the ECU PIN #1
Ground - One of the ground points or ECU PIN #80
OUT - ECU PIN #47 (disconnect the O2 sensor wire)

RadioShack part numbers:
276-309 - 5mm wide angle red led 1.7v, 20mA
276-1723 - The 555 programmable timer
276-1995A - The 8 pin socket for timer chip. It makes soldering safer and replacement easier
276-150A - Generic PC board
64-3052A - Pack of blue tap-in connectors
278-1225 - Stranded wires (black, red and green)
270-1801 - Small black plastic project box 3 x 2 x 1
272-1024 - Capacitor, 4.7uF
272-1026 - Capacitor, 22uF
Additional notes

If you use different flavors of 555 timer chip or LEDs with different parameters you will need to readjust the values of R4 and R2 to get the interval and output voltage right.

Don't attach it directly to the ECU right after assembly. Instead attach it to the battery and check the output. You should get approximately 0v/0.7v flipping about every 3.3 seconds when the car is not running, and 0v/0.9v when the car is running. The current should stay below 10mA.

One LED should be always on whenever the power is supplied. Another LED indicates when the output signal is high, so it should go on and off with the signal.

When tapping the ECU wires, triple check everything before hooking up the oscillator. The power source should read 0v when the key is removed, about 12.6v when they key is at ACC and about 14.3 when the alternator is running. The resistance between ground wire and the body shield of the ECU should be 0 ohms. And it would be best if you run the car and monitor the voltage of the original oxygen sensor wire before cutting it to make sure you have indeed got the right one. The resistance between ECU PIN #47 and ground is about 1.3 to 1.6 M Ohm.

The original sensor should still be dangling around, or plugged into the downpipe. The reason is that ECU also monitors the resistance of heater circuit inside the sensor. If you want to COMPELTELY disconnect it, you will need to measure the resistance of the heater circuit and install the right resistor between ECU PIN #72 and ECU PIN #31 Anyway, there is no need to do it if you just leave O2 sensor alone and only intercept the oxygen signal wire.

 

You sir are tryin to incriminate me stop watching me i can feel your bity eyes thru them binoculars watching me take a smash

 

My sarcasm meter was on the fritz yesterday, along with everything else.

No, that's not it. Headaches are chronic. It's much better since I started going to the chiropractor. But every once in a while, I'm completely laid out for half a day. It's horrible.

Tease

#1 and #4. Certainly not #2! Unless Hustler is an obnoxious Nigerian dude desperately trying to fit in? LOL

It's an old term. I must have picked it up from my folks.

 

 

 

O.o;