Replacing drive belt - pls confirm
05-12-2012, 06:52 PM
#1
Replacing drive belt - pls confirm
Probably stupid questions but I'd rather ask than be sorry. I was changing the oil today and noticed that the drive belt has lots of small cracks but no major ones or gaps thankfully.
1) Can I replace the drive belt simply by loosening the belt tensioner?
2) Testing the tension should be done from the passenger wheel well area?
Thanks.
1) Can I replace the drive belt simply by loosening the belt tensioner?
2) Testing the tension should be done from the passenger wheel well area?
Thanks.
05-13-2012, 12:41 AM
#2
See here http://www.greghome.com/Greg%27s%20G...xSE/2K2UDP.htm
Sorry I think that's not the complete steps. This is from a 99 Maxima but the idea is almost the same More steps from http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...t-reviews.html
Sorry I think that's not the complete steps. This is from a 99 Maxima but the idea is almost the same More steps from http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...t-reviews.html
My explanation:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
Desert Pearl's addition:
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.
I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.
I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
Desert Pearl's addition:
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.
I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.
I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)
Last edited by RR5; 05-13-2012 at 12:47 AM.
05-13-2012, 03:02 AM
#3
If you are talking about the belt for the alternator and air conditioner, all you have to do is loosen the tensioner. First you loosen the nut in the center of the tensioner pulley and then turn the tension adjusting bolt on top. Belt tension is checked on the lower section of the belt between the harmonic balancer and the a/c compressor.
If you are talking about the power steering pump belt, that's a little tougher. You start by removing the alternator belt. Then watch this video for the power steering belt removal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8c1e...ure=plpp_video
If you are talking about the power steering pump belt, that's a little tougher. You start by removing the alternator belt. Then watch this video for the power steering belt removal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8c1e...ure=plpp_video
05-13-2012, 09:27 AM
#4
Thanks to both of you for responding. I've used some of Greg's stuff before and he does a great job explaining the details. My major concern was the alternator/AC belt and thanks for clarifying having to loosen the pulley center. The power steering belt looks fine so I'm going to leave it alone for now.
05-13-2012, 10:52 AM
#5
In case anyone finds this later thru search, the job is easy and takes about 15 minutes. Steps are (for 02/03 models):
0) Need
- 1 jack
- 1 jack stand
- 1 wheel lug wrench
- 1 replacement alternator/ac belt (Gates part K060431)
- 1 Phillip's head screw driver
- one 10mm socket
- one 14mm socket
- one socket extension (at least 4")
- one short socket wrench
- one 14mm crescent wrench
- torsion wrench (optional)
- tension tester (optional)
1) use the jack and jack stand to jack up front passenger side of vehicle
2) use lug wrench to remove front passenger tire
3) from within wheel well, use Phillip's screw drive to remove two phillip's head screws on engine bay cover
4) use 10mm socket, socket extension, and short socket wrench to remove two 10mm bolts on engine bay cover
5) I examined (twisted) the old belt to get a feel for how much tension was on the belt. It twisted about a quarter full rotation (some people called this half) and about the same as the power steering belt.
6) use 14mm crescent wrench to loosen center bolt on tensioner pulley
7) from engine compartment, use 14mm socket and short socket wrench to loosen tensioner pulley adjustment, several complete turns are needed to remove old belt
8) combination of from within wheel well and engine compartment, remove old alternator/ac belt
9) install new alternator/ac belt
- there was no directional aspect to the Gates belt I bought
- my belt's part number had been warn away so there was no way to verify the same part number
- I did compare the two belts to see if they were close. New belt was about 1/2" smaller which is expected as older belt had stretched
10) from engine compartment, use 14mm and short socket wrench to tighten tensioner pulley
- from within wheel well, periodically check belt tension against previous belt measurement (or use a belt tension tester for 3.6 to 4.1 Nm)
11) from within wheel well, use 14mm crescent wrench to tighten center bolt on tensioner pulley (torsion wrench is 25-32 Nm)
12) from within engine compartment, use 14nm socket and short socket wrench to tighten tension pulley adjuster (torsion wrench is 4-7 Nm)
12) make sure everything is away from engine, then start car and listen for slippage or squeal, then stop engine
- in my case there was neither problem but if you did hear either than I would either tighten (for slippage) or loosen (for squeal)
13) from within wheel well, re-install engine bay cover (reverse steps 4 and 3)
14) re-install wheel
15) remove jack stand and jack
16) I intend to check the belt at my next oil change to see how it is doing
Hope this helps, sorry no pictures but really easy job
0) Need
- 1 jack
- 1 jack stand
- 1 wheel lug wrench
- 1 replacement alternator/ac belt (Gates part K060431)
- 1 Phillip's head screw driver
- one 10mm socket
- one 14mm socket
- one socket extension (at least 4")
- one short socket wrench
- one 14mm crescent wrench
- torsion wrench (optional)
- tension tester (optional)
1) use the jack and jack stand to jack up front passenger side of vehicle
2) use lug wrench to remove front passenger tire
3) from within wheel well, use Phillip's screw drive to remove two phillip's head screws on engine bay cover
4) use 10mm socket, socket extension, and short socket wrench to remove two 10mm bolts on engine bay cover
5) I examined (twisted) the old belt to get a feel for how much tension was on the belt. It twisted about a quarter full rotation (some people called this half) and about the same as the power steering belt.
6) use 14mm crescent wrench to loosen center bolt on tensioner pulley
7) from engine compartment, use 14mm socket and short socket wrench to loosen tensioner pulley adjustment, several complete turns are needed to remove old belt
8) combination of from within wheel well and engine compartment, remove old alternator/ac belt
9) install new alternator/ac belt
- there was no directional aspect to the Gates belt I bought
- my belt's part number had been warn away so there was no way to verify the same part number
- I did compare the two belts to see if they were close. New belt was about 1/2" smaller which is expected as older belt had stretched
10) from engine compartment, use 14mm and short socket wrench to tighten tensioner pulley
- from within wheel well, periodically check belt tension against previous belt measurement (or use a belt tension tester for 3.6 to 4.1 Nm)
11) from within wheel well, use 14mm crescent wrench to tighten center bolt on tensioner pulley (torsion wrench is 25-32 Nm)
12) from within engine compartment, use 14nm socket and short socket wrench to tighten tension pulley adjuster (torsion wrench is 4-7 Nm)
12) make sure everything is away from engine, then start car and listen for slippage or squeal, then stop engine
- in my case there was neither problem but if you did hear either than I would either tighten (for slippage) or loosen (for squeal)
13) from within wheel well, re-install engine bay cover (reverse steps 4 and 3)
14) re-install wheel
15) remove jack stand and jack
16) I intend to check the belt at my next oil change to see how it is doing
Hope this helps, sorry no pictures but really easy job
05-13-2012, 06:32 PM
#6
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 262
I did this a few years ago and did not have to put the car on jack stands to remove tire(I used ramps) or remove the alternator. If I remember the power steering belt was difficult due to space. Also the tensioner bolt for that is reverse threaded.
For the alternator/AC I put the belt on except for the part around the crank pulley and then I turned the engine with a wrench to slip the rest of the belt on.
For the alternator/AC I put the belt on except for the part around the crank pulley and then I turned the engine with a wrench to slip the rest of the belt on.
05-14-2012, 12:08 PM
#7
Thanks to both of you for responding. I've used some of Greg's stuff before and he does a great job explaining the details. My major concern was the alternator/AC belt and thanks for clarifying having to loosen the pulley center. The power steering belt looks fine so I'm going to leave it alone for now.
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