Hi guys !

I have read a lot about how easy it is to tune our cars ... :P The more opinions I read the more I am confused .... So I want new opinions ! Here is what I have :

-Intake
-NWP Spacer
-Cattman headers and full exhaust
-full suspension setup (Tein with wihte tokico)
-ES Bushing all the way
-BBK and SS brake line
etc ...

My Max is running really rich ...

So tomorrow I have an appointement to advance my timing to 17 degree. Now I need a MEGA tune to take advantage of every mod. WHAT I NEED ??? :P VAFC, Haltech, e-manage .... blue ultimate ???

I dont want to spend an other 1K$

So I know that I have to get an O2 sim, I'll get 2 wideband .. and the only thing that i'm not sure is the engine management system .... thx everyone for your help !!!

Max

 

There is nothing in your list that would require advanced tuning.your running rich due to o2 sensors advancing the timing not going to help your baseline

 

How you know you running rich?

Dont want to spend another $1k? Haltech is out. Might be able to just get a fuel control unit and tune it yourself for under $1k. I never had a problem when I put all my mods on.....had headers, 3" catback, Spacers, BOP, intake etc...never any problems.

 

emanage blue is enough

 

lol its kinda funny when he list his mods he wants to tune n he said ES bushings n suspension ...............

 

needs more info on this magic ES bushing tune

 

Irrelevant

What does etc entail?
What kind of intake?
What's full exhaust?

Details my friend, they're important.

 

id like to hear the tuning opions for those bushings alright lol... somebody also asked this............ how do u know the car is running rich???

 

My Max is running rich because it's smell gas a lot from the exhaust ... and sorry for the ES Bushing ! lol ... I copy past some of my mods from an others threads that I wrote and forgot to erase all the mods that are not important for this thread ! :P

I read a lot about the e-manage blue with the PnP harness ! what do you guys think about that vs the afc neo vs e-manage ultimate ?

 

how about fixing the o2 sensor issue your having first so the car can run normal first

 

That's exactly what I said on top .... I allready order an O2 sim ....

 

Which O2 sensor is wack?

If it's a primary, you don't want to sim that one, if it's your secondary, that one wont cause you to run rich.

I would get a definitive wideband reading to see if you are indeed running rich.

Your best option right now, go to the dyno and get a baseline for your mods and AFR.

 

OK ! Thanks !

 

If you're looking to spend under 500$ and get decent results, I would suggest a WB, SAFCII, 3.5" intake.

All those should put you about the 500-550$ mark, depending on where you source your SAFCII and LRMAF and which WB you choose.

This thread has most if not all of the info you want, that is if you want to stay under 500$ or so.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ng-thread.html

 

I've been researching this as well and think I've got it figured out. Since I will be done modding when I do this, I was going to find an S/V-AFC(not sure which yet), and have it dyno tuned instead of buying a wideband. Does this sound about right?

Also, I know the LRMAF makes more hp, but was there any other reason you suggested this with the tune nmex?

 

If you get a larger than stock MAF, get a WB for safety and a SAFCII for convenience.

I was just trying to get him to get the best bang for the buck as far as budget was concerned, even though he didn't specify a budget but did mention he didn't want to spend 1k more.

 

Well all the mods I had on my car that would affect AFR; Cattman headers, high flow cat, 3' Catback exhaust, AEM dry flilter with 6" v-stack and 2 breather filters (one on each valve cover)...... I was NOT TUNED and NEVER had problems with any gas smell at all. Might be another problem.

 

yup... might be... i had almost all that n no issues like that

 

What was your untuned AFR?

Did you have your rear breather drilled out (PCV)?



That smell would only happen if he was totally pig rich, had an exhaust leak, or a fuel leak. So I still say, the cheapest way to go is to get a baseline of his current set-up of both hp & AFR.