Intake Manifold Thermal Coating/Heat Shield
05-27-2012, 10:08 PM
#42
Horsepower TV had an episode a few yrs back using Duplicolor 1200 degree F silver or white paint on the bottom of a carbed intake manifold and they gained 15 hp since the inake wa running cooler! I did this to my 3rd gen and will paint my entire LIM and UIM when I do My spacers on my 5.5th Gen too see how well this works for me....
05-27-2012, 11:19 PM
#43
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 175
Horsepower TV had an episode a few yrs back using Duplicolor 1200 degree F silver or white paint on the bottom of a carbed intake manifold and they gained 15 hp since the inake wa running cooler! I did this to my 3rd gen and will paint my entire LIM and UIM when I do My spacers on my 5.5th Gen too see how well this works for me....
Current thought at the moment is even with a coating the IM will eventually reach a high premature, it might just slow things down.
Im surprised no one has chimed in on possible plastic IM swaps...
06-03-2012, 09:54 PM
#44
Judging by the what I have seen so far.
The best way will be to foam it and then wrap it in that dei tape.
I'm not going to do this to my friends 5th gen tho.
I can put foam in between layers of carbon fiber which is what I'm going to do for his intake.
Keep the battery location and make a duct around the battery away from the radiator to meet at the top of the radiator.
Kind of like the stillen for the G35.
Aluminum parts are for weight reduction and does not run cooler then your oem.
Matter fact aluminum generates more heat.
Those intakes that goes all the way to the front bumper floor is garbage.
All it does is suck heat from the pavement.
So any cover for those low intakes are a waste of money
The best way will be to foam it and then wrap it in that dei tape.
I'm not going to do this to my friends 5th gen tho.
I can put foam in between layers of carbon fiber which is what I'm going to do for his intake.
Keep the battery location and make a duct around the battery away from the radiator to meet at the top of the radiator.
Kind of like the stillen for the G35.
Aluminum parts are for weight reduction and does not run cooler then your oem.
Matter fact aluminum generates more heat.
Those intakes that goes all the way to the front bumper floor is garbage.
All it does is suck heat from the pavement.
So any cover for those low intakes are a waste of money
Last edited by actionbstard; 06-03-2012 at 10:01 PM.
03-31-2013, 07:53 PM
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 734
this is a old thread but i didnt feel like making a new one... i may be wrapping my manifold with this thermal tape
its a pretty big sheet so it wont be super ugly or i may paint it cause itll look better
03-31-2013, 08:18 PM
#46
I painted mine with Duplicolor 1300 degree High temp ceramic based paint.....Saw an episode of Horsepower TV where they used this High paint on the intake manifold and pickup 15 flywheel hp.....So I painted the UIM and LIM with these High Temp paint...
03-31-2013, 08:32 PM
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 734
my intake manifold is coming off soon when i install my spacers and probably gonna change the plugs valve cover and gasket so i have to decide if i want to wrap it or paint it. why is everyone using DEI is it the best brand? the one i posted seem nice cause of the size of the sheet
03-31-2013, 08:40 PM
#49
Oooh lookie lookie who it be, taking time to explain his plan, wonder what ever happened to that crap
Judging by the what I have seen so far.
The best way will be to foam it and then wrap it in that dei tape.
I'm not going to do this to my friends 5th gen tho.
I can put foam in between layers of carbon fiber which is what I'm going to do for his intake.
Keep the battery location and make a duct around the battery away from the radiator to meet at the top of the radiator.
Kind of like the stillen for the G35.
Aluminum parts are for weight reduction and does not run cooler then your oem.
Matter fact aluminum generates more heat.
Those intakes that goes all the way to the front bumper floor is garbage.
All it does is suck heat from the pavement.
So any cover for those low intakes are a waste of money
The best way will be to foam it and then wrap it in that dei tape.
I'm not going to do this to my friends 5th gen tho.
I can put foam in between layers of carbon fiber which is what I'm going to do for his intake.
Keep the battery location and make a duct around the battery away from the radiator to meet at the top of the radiator.
Kind of like the stillen for the G35.
Aluminum parts are for weight reduction and does not run cooler then your oem.
Matter fact aluminum generates more heat.
Those intakes that goes all the way to the front bumper floor is garbage.
All it does is suck heat from the pavement.
So any cover for those low intakes are a waste of money
03-31-2013, 08:46 PM
#50
One of the best ways to vent heat is to cut vents in your hood. Looks like crap 90% of the time but sometimes in FI applications it is the only way. Nobody seemed to mention that which I find odd....old thread bumps are sometimes good reads
04-01-2013, 06:14 AM
#55
04-01-2013, 09:39 AM
#57
Technically, yes. That would only be if the intake (metal) was hotter than the ambient under hood temps.
But, assuming you have phenolic spacers (reducing engine block heat from transferring up through intake) and the air pulled in through the intake is cooler than the ambient under hood temps....no.
Of course, to me anyway, it seems that this is all rather unecessary. When is the intake going to be hottest? Sitting in traffic. Intake air and ambient under hood temps are going to be at their highest. Once moving, under hood an intake temps are going to drop. So any coating or sheild is effectively only going to SLOW (not prevent) absorption of heat be the intake. Subsequently, it is going to significantly SLOW the cool down of the intake once motion resumes. I would think that in motion is when we would want to have the coolest intakes. Right?
This then ends with only two options. Either vents in the hood as mentioned, or second, the CO2 cooling system I posted on page one. Unless there are other options for heat dissipation. That makes more sense as opposed to shielding....at least to me.
But, assuming you have phenolic spacers (reducing engine block heat from transferring up through intake) and the air pulled in through the intake is cooler than the ambient under hood temps....no.
Of course, to me anyway, it seems that this is all rather unecessary. When is the intake going to be hottest? Sitting in traffic. Intake air and ambient under hood temps are going to be at their highest. Once moving, under hood an intake temps are going to drop. So any coating or sheild is effectively only going to SLOW (not prevent) absorption of heat be the intake. Subsequently, it is going to significantly SLOW the cool down of the intake once motion resumes. I would think that in motion is when we would want to have the coolest intakes. Right?
This then ends with only two options. Either vents in the hood as mentioned, or second, the CO2 cooling system I posted on page one. Unless there are other options for heat dissipation. That makes more sense as opposed to shielding....at least to me.
Last edited by Chris Gregg; 04-01-2013 at 09:47 AM.
04-01-2013, 12:19 PM
#58
Thats one hell of a good point as always Chris!
Also to the hood cutting/raising thing, most people put washers on the hinges so the back part of the hood is raised, this vents hot air out without creating a lift issue as well as hurting aerodynamics a lot.
Also to the hood cutting/raising thing, most people put washers on the hinges so the back part of the hood is raised, this vents hot air out without creating a lift issue as well as hurting aerodynamics a lot.
04-01-2013, 05:24 PM
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 539
This is probably another case of "we aren't talking about the 3.0 dude" but on my car which I think suffers from a similar issue with intake heat.....I ended up ditching my front under body panels once they got droopy and smacked up. I left a special section in to cover my belts and pulleys section.....but I know for sure while sacrificing a little MPG it creates much more airflow under the hood. Also a 4 or 6 inch piece of.....god i hate saying it......stiff dryer flex pipe routed as a scoop under the car and coming up to just near the cone filter DOES drive colder air to the area. I tested mine by setting a leaf blower up 10 feet from the car and pointing it at the vent.....you can put your hand on the other hand and feel actually ALOT of air being moved through. I ended up ditching my 6 inch piece because it was slightly too big and looked ugly once it got dented up from install. Im going to eventually rig up a 4 inch pipe with a better install but I'm in no rush.
On a side note, we did a dyno run with one fan specifically pointed at the scoop...and the tech showed me where it slightly leaned out the fuel curve at WOT...pretty funny.
On a side note, we did a dyno run with one fan specifically pointed at the scoop...and the tech showed me where it slightly leaned out the fuel curve at WOT...pretty funny.
04-01-2013, 08:48 PM
#62
wow did you use primer also? and do you have pictures id really like to see the outcome
my intake manifold is coming off soon when i install my spacers and probably gonna change the plugs valve cover and gasket so i have to decide if i want to wrap it or paint it. why is everyone using DEI is it the best brand? the one i posted seem nice cause of the size of the sheet
my intake manifold is coming off soon when i install my spacers and probably gonna change the plugs valve cover and gasket so i have to decide if i want to wrap it or paint it. why is everyone using DEI is it the best brand? the one i posted seem nice cause of the size of the sheet
04-02-2013, 05:53 AM
#63
Pics or it didn't happen. :P
04-02-2013, 09:51 AM
#65
I guess you better use your imagination....
04-02-2013, 04:45 PM
#68
I thought you were joking about this so I joked back.....you werent serious about spacing the bottom of the hood were you? That would be a REALLY bad idea
04-03-2013, 10:46 AM
#69
Seems legit is my tell. Lol
I do like the idea about washers on the rear of the hood bolts to vent it.
Was that serious?
04-03-2013, 11:20 AM
#70
I emphasize trapped because once the car is moving, hot spots (areas of specific elevated heat) become localized. Air flowing into the engine bay fails to scavenge every area under the hood as it crosses the engine, meets the fire wall, then gets sucked down behind the engine and out under the car. Hence why strategically placed vents work very well to address those specific pools of collected heat. So, unless you ensure there is a gap between the back of the hood and the windshield cowl (ie. take off the rubber strip), removing those hot air pools will be highly unlikely.
Begs the question if simply removing the rubber strip on the windshield cowl alone would suffice? Wouldn't have to mess with hood or worry about re-alignment. Taking that strip off alone, without spacing, should net 1/8" or so. Not sure how much more, if any, would be needed to accomplish the stated goal?
Last edited by Chris Gregg; 04-03-2013 at 11:30 AM.
04-03-2013, 11:36 AM
#73
No car comes from the factory with the rear of the hood spaced. No super car, no standard production car.
You are not going to do anything positive by doing so other than looking like a tool.
I 1st saw the Sentra guys doing this 7 years ago.
:barf:
You are not going to do anything positive by doing so other than looking like a tool.
I 1st saw the Sentra guys doing this 7 years ago.
:barf:
04-04-2013, 12:37 PM
#79
04-04-2013, 01:56 PM
#80
If it allows the venting and therefore elimination of under hood hot air pockets, that is a positive. Of course, it's really only going to be BENEFICIAL if those hot air pockets are centralized at the intake plenum and/or air intake (assuming use of a cone filter or ghetto air box).
Unless someone maps out an under hood temperature grid, hood spacing, hood vents, duct piping, removal of splash shields is all kinda snake oil to me....IMHO.
Unless someone maps out an under hood temperature grid, hood spacing, hood vents, duct piping, removal of splash shields is all kinda snake oil to me....IMHO.