Yeah they would want a bare/clean surface.

 

Horsepower TV had an episode a few yrs back using Duplicolor 1200 degree F silver or white paint on the bottom of a carbed intake manifold and they gained 15 hp since the inake wa running cooler! I did this to my 3rd gen and will paint my entire LIM and UIM when I do My spacers on my 5.5th Gen too see how well this works for me....

 

Let us know man, Ill prolly do it when I get around to replacing my valve cover seals.

Current thought at the moment is even with a coating the IM will eventually reach a high premature, it might just slow things down.

Im surprised no one has chimed in on possible plastic IM swaps...

 

Judging by the what I have seen so far.
The best way will be to foam it and then wrap it in that dei tape.

I'm not going to do this to my friends 5th gen tho.
I can put foam in between layers of carbon fiber which is what I'm going to do for his intake.
Keep the battery location and make a duct around the battery away from the radiator to meet at the top of the radiator.
Kind of like the stillen for the G35.

Aluminum parts are for weight reduction and does not run cooler then your oem.
Matter fact aluminum generates more heat.
Those intakes that goes all the way to the front bumper floor is garbage.
All it does is suck heat from the pavement.

So any cover for those low intakes are a waste of money

 

this is a old thread but i didnt feel like making a new one... i may be wrapping my manifold with this thermal tape its a pretty big sheet so it wont be super ugly or i may paint it cause itll look better

 

I painted mine with Duplicolor 1300 degree High temp ceramic based paint.....Saw an episode of Horsepower TV where they used this High paint on the intake manifold and pickup 15 flywheel hp.....So I painted the UIM and LIM with these High Temp paint...

 

When my UIM comes off it'll be completely wrapped in the DEI gold stuff. My charge pipe will also be wrapped in it.

 

wow did you use primer also? and do you have pictures id really like to see the outcome
my intake manifold is coming off soon when i install my spacers and probably gonna change the plugs valve cover and gasket so i have to decide if i want to wrap it or paint it. why is everyone using DEI is it the best brand? the one i posted seem nice cause of the size of the sheet

 

Oooh lookie lookie who it be, taking time to explain his plan, wonder what ever happened to that crap

 

One of the best ways to vent heat is to cut vents in your hood. Looks like crap 90% of the time but sometimes in FI applications it is the only way. Nobody seemed to mention that which I find odd....old thread bumps are sometimes good reads

 

^^ How about hood pins with an extra safety pin slot so you can have your hood popped a little without worrying about it flying up.
Would that help?
Sounds legit.

 

or stick a bag of ice in there before you go for a drive

 

Isn't that water injection?

 

no thats when you fill er up with water. Gets more oxygen into the combustion chamber and the hydrogen makes for a hell of an explosion

 

This is true, my friend with a GTO improved his 1/4 by .3 tenths

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't thermal coating the IM trap in heat as well?

 

Technically, yes. That would only be if the intake (metal) was hotter than the ambient under hood temps.
But, assuming you have phenolic spacers (reducing engine block heat from transferring up through intake) and the air pulled in through the intake is cooler than the ambient under hood temps....no.

Of course, to me anyway, it seems that this is all rather unecessary. When is the intake going to be hottest? Sitting in traffic. Intake air and ambient under hood temps are going to be at their highest. Once moving, under hood an intake temps are going to drop. So any coating or sheild is effectively only going to SLOW (not prevent) absorption of heat be the intake. Subsequently, it is going to significantly SLOW the cool down of the intake once motion resumes. I would think that in motion is when we would want to have the coolest intakes. Right?

This then ends with only two options. Either vents in the hood as mentioned, or second, the CO2 cooling system I posted on page one. Unless there are other options for heat dissipation. That makes more sense as opposed to shielding....at least to me.

 

Thats one hell of a good point as always Chris!

Also to the hood cutting/raising thing, most people put washers on the hinges so the back part of the hood is raised, this vents hot air out without creating a lift issue as well as hurting aerodynamics a lot.

 

Did some one forget either liquid sodium cooling like HP valves use or water passages with liquid cooling and theres also heat sink fins!

 

This is probably another case of "we aren't talking about the 3.0 dude" but on my car which I think suffers from a similar issue with intake heat.....I ended up ditching my front under body panels once they got droopy and smacked up. I left a special section in to cover my belts and pulleys section.....but I know for sure while sacrificing a little MPG it creates much more airflow under the hood. Also a 4 or 6 inch piece of.....god i hate saying it......stiff dryer flex pipe routed as a scoop under the car and coming up to just near the cone filter DOES drive colder air to the area. I tested mine by setting a leaf blower up 10 feet from the car and pointing it at the vent.....you can put your hand on the other hand and feel actually ALOT of air being moved through. I ended up ditching my 6 inch piece because it was slightly too big and looked ugly once it got dented up from install. Im going to eventually rig up a 4 inch pipe with a better install but I'm in no rush.

On a side note, we did a dyno run with one fan specifically pointed at the scoop...and the tech showed me where it slightly leaned out the fuel curve at WOT...pretty funny.

 

would powder coating have any benefits rather than just look cool? ima wire wheel my intake manifold since itll be alot quicker than sanding and see what happens

 

It's silver...I did this during my NWP spacer install....it looks stock to 98% of those looking at it.....Thermal coating is available but I chose a cheaper method....No picture since spacer install...Sorry about that!

 

Well I'm going to say it...

Pics or it didn't happen. :P

 

im gonna do something to my manifold when i install my spacers. also i saw someone i think it was grandhustle17 he put his name on his manifold it was really hot

 

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/Cry02-Cryogenic-Fuel-Chilling-System.html

 

Ok...if you say so! I guess you better use your imagination....

 

I was hoping for pics instead...

 

I thought you were joking about this so I joked back.....you werent serious about spacing the bottom of the hood were you? That would be a REALLY bad idea

 

It's an old joke.
Seems legit is my tell. Lol

I do like the idea about washers on the rear of the hood bolts to vent it.
Was that serious?

 

Yes. But it's more than just the washers to space the back of the hood because you also have a rubber seal back there. Although it would no longer creat a tight seal with a spaced hood, the rubber still acts as an obstruction to free "trapped" under hood air.

I emphasize trapped because once the car is moving, hot spots (areas of specific elevated heat) become localized. Air flowing into the engine bay fails to scavenge every area under the hood as it crosses the engine, meets the fire wall, then gets sucked down behind the engine and out under the car. Hence why strategically placed vents work very well to address those specific pools of collected heat. So, unless you ensure there is a gap between the back of the hood and the windshield cowl (ie. take off the rubber strip), removing those hot air pools will be highly unlikely.

Begs the question if simply removing the rubber strip on the windshield cowl alone would suffice? Wouldn't have to mess with hood or worry about re-alignment. Taking that strip off alone, without spacing, should net 1/8" or so. Not sure how much more, if any, would be needed to accomplish the stated goal?

 

do not space your hood. that is all.

 

Not that I will. But explain your reasoning/opinion.

 

No car comes from the factory with the rear of the hood spaced. No super car, no standard production car.

You are not going to do anything positive by doing so other than looking like a tool.

I 1st saw the Sentra guys doing this 7 years ago.

:barf:

 

I'll try...but I'm busy almost everyday working on cars.....barely home....but I'll try just for you!

 

No no no no no.........priorities! FOCUS!!

 

it looks stupid

 

+1

 

it looks silly a bit, but it DOES DO SOMETHING.

I wouldn't ever do it to my car, but that doesn't mean it doesnt work.

 

uhh i guess technically it does something that is not good if that is what you mean.

 

If it allows the venting and therefore elimination of under hood hot air pockets, that is a positive. Of course, it's really only going to be BENEFICIAL if those hot air pockets are centralized at the intake plenum and/or air intake (assuming use of a cone filter or ghetto air box).

Unless someone maps out an under hood temperature grid, hood spacing, hood vents, duct piping, removal of splash shields is all kinda snake oil to me....IMHO.