TheDude00

So I noticed there was a leak under my car today so I started taking a look. It is coming from the passenger side behind the oil pan. Idk what it is from! I have photos to see if anyone can help me out.
Also something has leaked onto my oil filter. It is what I believe to be the leak. It was on the old filter before I did my oil change and now the new one. Its green in color leading me to believe it is the Coolant.
PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT. I want to trade my max for a truck and would like it mechanically sound.
Picture Time:

TheDude00

Transmission also looks to have a small leak. Idk for sure. Again Pleas help!

AZ89two4tsx

iTrader: (1)

It is me or are pictures not showing up?

TheDude00

They are up for me but then again I posted it.

user name001

green as in neon green like a/c refridgerant? iirc the a/c unit is in that location with 2 lines( high pressure and low pressure) leading to your condensor.. hows your air conditioning? cold,hot? if you can locate your a/c lines under the hood and pop a cap off one of the lines (wearing gloves and googles just in case) and quickly( quickly) push the pin inside with a pen to see if you still have pressure (we do this in the bodyshop befor calling an a/c discharge tech to discharge the condesor befor we remove them to make sure it hasnt leaked and a waste for him to come. the green color is a distinct way to find a leak in your a/c unit. we use r134a refrigerant here in canada, as our laws have banned previous refrigerant so im not too sure about doing the pen test with other refrigerants as there maybe be a chance there more toxis so maybe check what refridgerant is in there befor performing that test. either way, i bet on a leak in your ac unit.

TheDude00

The AC works fine. Takes a minuet to get going but it blows cold and feels great. Its no different then any other car I have had or have driven. Where could it leak from?
If it is AC system and not the Coolant. How much am I looking at? Since I believe you a mechanic.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

I sure hope user name is not a mechanic because he has given horrible advice.

Refrigerant is a gas, not a liquid. It will disperse into the atmospher, not leak. DO NOT release any freon gas into the atmospher!

The leak you speak of sounds like coolant. You are going to have to trace down where it is coming from. The coolant hose coming off the oil cooler (where the oil filter attaches) and metal line are prone to leaking. If you are getting any oil leak, it will be the gasket behind the oil cooler, where it bolts to the bottom of the upper oil pan.
But, a coolant leak itself may be dripping down from higher up on the engine. Your belts wet?

You just need to get a flashlight and with the car running look at everything and see if you can locate the source.

TheDude00

I assumed he was referring to the colored oil typically put into systems to lubricate and help find leaks. Coolant makes the most sense tough.
So your saying the leak should happen while its running? Cause I know it is dripping while sitting. I have seen the stains. And where ever it is leaking from it is in the back side of the engine. What coolant lines run to the back of the engine?

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

When running, the coolant is flowing and is heated, so expands, meaning that it is more likely to leak...or leak more heavily when running/circulating.

The coolant lines that run to the back are the oil cooler lines. Thy run to the oil cooler/housing that the oil filter screws onto. The lines coming off that housing are not oil lines!

TheDude00

I will definitely test that out and see if i can see it. But it is leaking while sitting too. Is that only happening because its warm and still getting out or signs of a more serious problem?

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Guess would be because still warm. With a leak, greater amount of fluid leaking is not necessarily indication of a greater problem per say. Just an indication of a bigger leak.
More pronounced a leak is makes it a bigger problem only in the sense you risk running that system dry, which will result in additional damage/problems of left unchecked or fail to fix.

TheDude00

This is sounding like it is a leak from a house and not a component from the car. Are the hoses easy to replace?

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

The only coolant leak I would be concerned about is a head gasket, but this doesn't sound like the case. Not sure on these cars how/ where the water pump leaks from....that to me would be worse case here. Hoses are simple to replace. Messy because you're going to lose fluid, but easy.

TheDude00

I am trying to find a schematic that will show me the water pumps placement so I can hopefully rule it out as a possible source of the issue.
What is the symptoms of a head gasket leak?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Refidgerant has oil in it that's coloured.

But it's usually purple or some other colour. Not green, green is coolant.
Also that oil dye in refirdgerant comes out super slimy, it doesn't just flow like coolant, OP, you'd know the difference without much trouble. If it's very wet and flowing like water, it's coolant, if it's sticky and not flowing really, it's something else.


While this sounds great, it's not actually true for most external components. External pipes and hoses seal better when they expand, it's the pressure that's in the system combined with the added heat while running up to temp that causes leaks under running conditions/pressurized conditions.

This is why external lines can be totally sealed when running but leak when cold, and also the other way around of course.

In either case OP, Chris is giving great advice, the area he pointed yu to (cooler) is the most prone to coolant leak in that area.

You can do 2 things, one pressure test the system (safe more accurate way) or two, run the engine and look around.

Pressure testing when cold, then again after warming the engine up allows you to look while the engine is off (so you don't hurt yourself seriously playing around the running belts), it also allows you to increase the pressure to a few PSI above normal pressure, which will help pinpoint any potential leaks quicker.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Check oil cooler line and the oil cooler itself.

TheDude00

Roughly where is this? Like whats around it that will help me identify it?

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Again, the oil cooler is the housing your oil filter screws onto. Find that, you'll find everything else.

TheDude00

Sorry I did read that. You posted it. Thank you so much for all the advice!
Since its leaking while sitting still what does that mean its most likely a seal, gasket or a hose that is cracked or broken and is contacting to let fluid out?

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

As the guys have said it sounds like coolant leak near the oil filter, below is one of the main oil coolent line which is located under the engine near the oil pan (it is very visable and is one that is very prone to rotting out causing you to have a leak).


I believe there is also an O ring right at the oil filter that is also prone to wear out and cause a leak. This thread will give you the O ring part number. http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ent+oil+filter

TheDude00

This is why I come her first. You guys are full of knowledge and so helpful!
Please keep the advice and knowledge coming. I really enjoy learning all this and hopefully I will be able to officially diagnose and fix this issue.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

^^^^THIS x204398543209580984321

Your filter screws directly onto what is the 'oil cooler'. It's also the 'oil filter base'

there's one coolant line in and one out, they're both bad/infamous for rotting and leaking. That's the most likely cause of this.

EDIT:

^^EVERYTHING here.

It's either the lines or the gasket if we're playing hte odds knowing these engines.

TheDude00

How hard is it to fix this? And considering that the leak is landing on top of the filter any guess on what line specifically is causing this?
You can see the greenish liquid in the very top photo on the orange filter.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Dude there is no pictures in your post at all. not even failed links

TheDude00

Let me know if this shows up now.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Images up! Great!! Can't say I can identify anything conclusive in those images. Although idsay there is a torn cv boot on the passenger side and likely need a new oil cooler seal. Although I can't be sure on mobile that I can see coolant, I'm going to say theres still a coolant leak.

TheDude00

Why do you say CV boot is torn? It looked intact to me.
Oil cooler seal?

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Areas under the car seemed like greese clumps typical of greese being flung from joints as the axle spins. May not be, even if it is, that is not a big issue. In your inspection, you would just need to ensure what is oil, greese, coolant, or blend in order to help track down your problem and it's source. Nothing more.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Upon further inspection, it is probably just a mix of oil/coolant. Again, I'm on mobile forum, so consider me handicapped at the moment! LOL!!

TheDude00

So I saw a video on the oil cooler seal you guys have been talking about. However considering the fact that the green sludge is on top of the filer and not on the bottom it leads me to believe this is not the cause.
What lines or hoses are above? if anyone knows.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

This. I see oil for sure 100% oil there. Also see the grease or something that could be from an old CV boot failure or yours are starting to go and haven't crapped out all the way yet.

I see no clear indication of a coolant leak from those pics but that's not to say there isn't one.

You need to clean this and check it. It's way too messy with too many things going on to pinpoint the main cause. And it seems there may be more than one cause.

How's the powersteering fluid?

Luigi Martini

This sounds and looks like an oil cooler leak, as some people have already mentioned. You should definitely figure out if its coolant or oil. Good thing is that if its either two the fix will probably be in the same area.

If it's the oil cooler, it isn't a major fix. Its just a rubber o-ring that has failed. I picked one up from the dealer (Superior Nissan Dearborn MI) on wed for $4.02. It's basically like an oil change with just a few more steps and it's best to do it when you're at your oil change interval.

The piece that Ghost 54 posted is the most common to rust out or fail. This is the line that runs to the oil cooler and runs somewhat alongside the lower oil pan (passenger side). When you get down there its pretty obvious. There are also two rubber hoses that may have failed as well. When I checked at the dealer on wed. the piece that Ghost posted was $26.xx and the two hoses were $5.xx a piece. Not expensive and also an easy fix.

Can someone post the diagram from Courtesy or another source. It would make it much easier for the OP to understand.

Wouldn't worry to much about where the substance is or isn't. When you're at speed that **** flies everywhere because of turbulence, wind, car motion etc.

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

Well now that I can finally see the pictures that you have posted and more important the degree of leakage you have been describing. Might I suggest that given the amount of material that has leaked all over everything that you get a good engine degreaser and completely remove (clean) all the area's that have been coated, rag and towel dry up everywhere so that you are viewing (as clean as possible) all of the affected area. You really do need to have things as clean and dry as possible in order to determine the exact leakage point. Start right up at the top valve cover and clean and degrease everything all the way down to the bottom as well as over and along all the areas of the tranny. As you said you possible have some leakage there as well.

The guys have come up with all kinds of possibilities and areas that have been proven to be failure areas, but given what I see in your picture's this leakage has been going on for some time and the exact area is now so badly contaminated it is making it very difficult to determine the exact location. Just my 2cents on the matter ... but a complete cleaning and degreasing of all the areas and some new pictures of a cleaned engine area as well as a few pictures of the same areas after a few days of driving are going to make it a lot better to help with what may be the cause.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Main oil cooler line failure point is where the hardline is attached to the ac compressor the oil cooler O ring is under the base the oil filter screws on if it fails it sprays in all directions and then the axle spinning will also sling the coolant all over everything as well as normal driving will blow it around

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

O ring price $4
Oil cooler line $23

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

If will be replacing the o-ring, note that there are two different versions. On mine, I went ahead and bought both just in case. After disassembling, I found both o-rings would actually fit at the same time. Due to the failure rate of these, I installed both with just a bit of black silicone gasket maker. No problems since.

user name001

yes you were correct OP, i was refferring to the lube put in the a/c system ALSO USED TO DETECT LEAKS. i am well aware that it is a gas.. when it is discharged from a vehicle it is put into cannisters similar to propane tanks, when you determine the volume in a vehicle, it is done in lbs. when you are charging the system a bottle of lube( neon green in substance) is also entering your ac system, the idea being that because it is a gas, you cannot detect a leak without pressure testing the system... so this aids in finding a leak. which is why i offered up the pen test, to determine gas pressure in the a/c system. but being that ur blowing cold air, and the fact that i just now saw the pictures.. i dont beleive that it is your A/C.

but hey, thanks for that cocky remark though chrisgregg, u are correct, im not a mechanic. im a body tech.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

It's not cocky to point out bad feedback and you were asking him to do something illegal. Rest assured, I will now be sleeping better knowing you are no mechanic.
You will do well to roll with the punches here. Nothing's personal sir.

TheDude00

Well sounds like the way I should go about this by popular thought is to clean everything off and have it nice and clean and then run it. Would it be just the dame to run (idle) and watch it to see if I can see where the leak is coming out of. Or should I drive it and then check it after driving it. Or and probably most like wither way will work? hahaha
Thank you guys so much for the advice this is helping me so much and saving me a ton of money!!

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Maybe it's time we get a better estimate of your skills, Dude. I think you had asked at one point how hard it would be to change a hose.

If you've never done something that basic and have no experienced person to assist you..... I'm going to go ahead and say it. You just need to stop and take the car to a mechanic. I do NOT want to discourage anyone (you) from doing their own work. However, I am having serious concerns that you are unable to resolve the simplest issue we have discussed.
I sincerely say this to be the most helpful to you. Clean things up, see of you can find the leak. But I highly recommend, if you are not confident in your skills, you then just take it to a shop.