5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Rattling in Engine--"Timing Chain"

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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 10:30 PM
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Rattling in Engine--"Timing Chain"

(2000 Nissan Maxima GLE) Alright--well here's the jist of it. Long story short, I've been keeping up with maintanence on my car as frequently as possible. Girlfriend took the car two and a half hours away, the car started having a "rattling" in the engine upon acceleration. But not while Idle. Her "family mechanic" who isn't a mechanic but a hobbiest (and not even that, at best, he's stated as "just a guy who enjoys working on cars, but doesn't want to be a mechanic because he hates how they do things") told me that it's the timing chain. Pulled up some youtube videos to gauge how it sounded to the girlfriend, (she drives normal, not messed up and crazy despite what some may think, obviously) and it sounds like it is the timing chain. NOW.

The guy told me that prior to opening the engine it'd be between $500-$1000, and then after he inspected it he said it'd be $2,200. I asked him if I just got a new engine, if he could just replace it--and he said it would cost $700-$800 for labor, alone. Last I knew mileage was about 100k (just recently rolled over about two or three months ago and don't drive it nearly enough to have lots of wear and tear). It was a used car when I bought it about five years ago and this is the first major treatment my Nissan Maxima needed.

1. Does $2,200 sound like a fair deal?
2. Am I getting screwed?
3. Would it be better just to buy a new engine?
4. I have no mechanical experience, but I do have a chilton's guide to my car. Should I just do it myself?
5. This is annoying.
Old Jun 16, 2012 | 10:40 PM
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Slow down bud. Your timing chain (we don't even know if that is the problem yet for sure) is POSSIBLY in need of replacement (might even just be a tensioner) and you want to swap a new engine? No. Don't do that.
Old Jun 16, 2012 | 10:47 PM
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See that's the thing. I half want to get it completely checked out by another guy--and the man seems "dead set" on saying it's the timing chain. I was looking through a few other peoples' posts about their timing chains back in 2010 (on this forum) and people suggested tensioners and everything. Is there a way to know what the problem is, honestly--or (from what this guy is saying) do you have to open the can of worms and figure it out from there? From what he is saying, he's just pulling "answers from his hat" and I can't quite tell what the problem is since it's two and a half hours away. I'm very tempted to just take it to a dealership and get them to check it out--but I'm usually very picky about the mechanics who work on my cars.

So I don't quite know how to find out what the problem is when I'm so far away, and I've done research and this guy just seems to believe it IS the timing chain, regardless. And I said to him "why not just replace the timing chain" and he said "well there are three in there. And I need to just get the whole kit, and that kit costs $1,100 dollars. And then I need to take apart your engine, drain the fluids," (I don't recall the entire conversation but essentially he was just tacking more stuff on, which I could see needing to drain fluids--and refill them due to taking the engine apart--but just so you know, I have no mechanical experience, minus what I've done with my car. But I've never messed with the engine) so how can I tell if it is the timing chain in need of a replacement?
Old Jun 17, 2012 | 12:15 AM
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Replace your engine??? No...
I also have a rattle which I am 99% sure is the timing chain. When not properly lubricated (decreased engine oil), the timing chain begins the rattle. My only solution is the check the oil very often and make sure it is topped off when the level is low.
If you don't already know, many of the 5th gens burn oil so it is very important to keep checking your levels.

Try doing this: Do a routine oil change and check for the rattle again. Is it as bad as before? If not, it is most likely the timing chain and again, not getting properly lubricated. If it is still very prominent, go on to check various other factors that could cause it such as heat shields.

DO NOT let this "mechanic" take $2,200 from you. VQ motors are not meant to end their life at 100k. Just my 0.02...
Old Jun 17, 2012 | 01:18 AM
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So--the timing chain could possibly not be getting enough lubrication--would just having enough oil in there work? I just filled the oil up as soon as I heard that happen. Used the Castrol GTX 10w30 (don't know if that's a problem it's what I usually use). And I don't quite know if it just will take a while for the chains to get lubed up again, or if it could be that it was just too low when she got to the final destination that they just weren't lubed up enough--and now that's what he's saying. But regardless I thought 2200 was a bit expensive. I'll probably have my father pick it up from him and I'll have to find time to get up there and look at it. From what the guy said:

"If she continues to drive it--it will break down on the interstate and you'll need a new engine" (exactly his words)

Secondly--I've never had a "rattling" before, and so when she said it "grumbles" or rattles upon acceleration it just made me think "what happened" so I don't quite know.. -- but can it just happen on a whim like this and get fixed?

Last edited by MaximaLoyd; Jun 17, 2012 at 01:19 AM. Reason: (added "secondly" portion)
Old Jun 17, 2012 | 08:01 AM
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I just replaced all 3 chains, guides and tensioners, water pump & thermostat of my kid brother's '02 for about $1,350 (including my mechanic's labor). He's got about 255K miles on his engine.

It's very unusual to have the chains themselves go out, and at your mileage, even less likely. I'd say you only do the tensioners - I bet that will solve your problem.
BTW, there's no "timing chain kit" for these cars - you have to buy everything individually - and by all means, please use genuine Nissan parts only. Waaay too much work to have a cheap part go out on you!

Last but not least, I wouldn't let some shadetree mechanic, who's charging you twice as much as my mechanic even touch your car! Unless you do it yourself, take it to a shop that has the right tools and experience.

Last edited by EuroDriver; Jun 17, 2012 at 08:25 AM.
Old Jun 17, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by EuroDriver
Last but not least, I wouldn't let some shadetree mechanic, who's charging you twice as much as my mechanic even touch your car! Unless you do it yourself, take it to a shop that has the right tools and experience.


There are countless threads on this forum about 'engine rattles' and any of them are about timing chain rattles. If you feel that the rattle is completely out of your hands, then take it to an actual experienced mechanic and have him diagnose it.

As for the oil-timing chain 'solution', many members on here change their oil based on the rattle. Instead of following the traditional 3000k oil change, they will do it only when they start to hear the timing chain rattle (which will temporarily eliminate it until the oil levels drop).

I am sure others will express their opinions on this..
Old Jun 18, 2012 | 02:47 AM
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Is the VQ30DE-K engine an Interference Engine?

Also, I have a chilton's guide--as I've said before--but I'd like to be sure before I open things up and mess with it. And obviously any kind of mechanic I go to will charge a bit extra for the labor and all of that. So--I am kind of worried just simply because I've never popped open my engine before. More worried because I'm not sure what would look "off" in my engine, or what would look right. But it did sound a bit odd; a friend of mine said he'd help me with belts that need replacing. And I have my chilton's manual, so I wouldn't mind finding a way up there and getting my car fixed myself. If it's not that difficult. It'd be a good way to start. Showing a shady mechanic that it doesn't need that. But at the same time, it could end up a lot worse. With my manual, though, as long as I do things the way that it says, it shouldn't end up any worse than it already is. Well I'll be getting an idea on what's going on today--I'll take it away from this guy because he seemed shady in the first place. My father'll have it and next time I get a day off I'll find a way to go to Omaha and try and fix it. I've got people who are willing to help me so that's good. Any other advice?
Old Jun 18, 2012 | 07:26 PM
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Hey all, update.

Took the car to jensen tire (had it towed), asked them for their professional opinion on it. Tell me if it's what the guy said. They found NOTHING wrong with it, except that it had an aftermarket air filter in it, which they said could cause (I believe he said something like a heavy sucking noise) but throughout all the driving on the interstate, and in town, no real problems everything is good to go. So, I contacted the mechanic, just told him that, thanked him for his time and I'll be getting my car tomorrow. This has taught me to be more aware of my vehicle, and maintain it a bit more myself, to get a feel for my car. So, thanks for everything, guys, your insights have been very helpful.

Ps: they said there was no rattling at all. So, must have been something like having low oil prior, but regardless. Hoorah.

Thanks again, I'll be around. Loyd.
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