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Amp wires to battery?

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Old 06-18-2012, 02:57 PM
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Amp wires to battery?

How did you guys run the power wire from an amp to your battery up front? I took off the kick panels on the driver side and found a wrapped up group of wires going through a very tight grommet, (the hood release also goes through this grommet), where else, if anywhere, is there an existing holes that I can run the power cable through? I know I can drill a hole and close with another rubber grommet, but I would like to keep from drilling through the firewall all together.

Also, how hard was it to run the RCA's and remote wires to your head unit?

* the grommet with the wrapped up wire seems to be too tightly packed to fit the 4 awg power wire through.
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:05 PM
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:22 PM
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^not exactly what he asked for, he asked where you 5th gen guys run the power wire through the firewall
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by tigersharkdude
^not exactly what he asked for, he asked where you 5th gen guys run the power wire through the firewall
i thought i had a pic of that dammit but i ran the wire thru the firewall where the slave cylinder attaches behind the clutch pedal
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:17 PM
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I went through where the steering column meets the fire wall. IIRC it is surrounded by a rubber seal. Running RCA's and remote wire was easy under trim. Check FSM if you're not sure how things come apart and remember to run RCAs down one side and power down the other.
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ateick
I went through where the steering column meets the fire wall. IIRC it is surrounded by a rubber seal. Running RCA's and remote wire was easy under trim. Check FSM if you're not sure how things come apart and remember to run RCAs down one side and power down the other.
The only rubber seal I saw was the one behind the driver side kick panel. Unless that's the one you're referring to, I must have missed the other. I'll go back and check. As easy as it sounds to run wires, physically routing the wires is a pain sometimes, I did it on my dad's honda and that **** was so easy compared to this maxima, although I can't say for sure since I haven't tried, I've just looked at where my wires will run.

Anyway, thanks for your help. I'll wire up in a few days, and if I run into trouble I'll post it.

Also note, my 5th gen is automatic. my previous max ****ted out at 200k and I got a steal on this one. I doubt tranny type would make any major difference though.

Last edited by Sameer71992; 06-18-2012 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:42 PM
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Drill a hole
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by T_Behr904
Drill a hole
^Drill a dedicated hole for the wire
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:57 PM
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I drilled a hole and put one of these badboys in there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-Wire...item5d2e98b8e1
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by luvlexus101
I drilled a hole and put one of these badboys in there.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stinger-Wire...item5d2e98b8e1
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:28 PM
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I haven't even gotten to the installation and I've run into another problem. I have a rockford fosgate rfk4l wiring kit. It's the 4 guage kit, but I'm sure 8 gauge and 0 gauge have similar in line fuses, and that's the part that's giving me trouble.

This stupid inline fuse and holder won't fit. The fuse itself fits into the plastic holder, and I can attach one of the wires (the power wire is cut in half to allow the fuse holder to be placed), but when one wire is attached and secured on, the other wire end won't fit, and by won't fit, I mean it won't even catch the thread on the screw piece. there's a small screw on the top of the metal parts on the wire, which are loosened/tightened with allen keys. Am I supposed to loosen these up to fit the fuse in?
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:30 PM
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PICTURES:

these are the culprits
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:31 PM
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This is the head of one of the connectors
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:32 PM
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And this is ideally what I want inside that plastic piece.

Please, has ANYONE experienced this problem?
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:42 PM
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Does your fuse holder look like this:

or like this:


THe best thing to do is drill your own hole. It would be easiest to get a hole drill that has a drill bit in the middle to keep it steady as you drill. I don't quite understand your problems with the fuse holder. Most are easy to handle
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Old 06-19-2012, 04:14 PM
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it looks like the second one, sorry if those pics didn't come out

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictu...ture_id=317252

Here's a close up of the fuse holder without the fuse. This is exactly what I have. The fuse does not slide into this, as a friend said it should. Do you see those metal slits in there? There's a screw going through the metal slit that prevents the fuse from sliding in all the way. Maybe it's there to secure the fuse in place, idk. When I get an allen key that will fit that screw, I will loosen it, and hopefully it will fit.

Last edited by Sameer71992; 06-19-2012 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Sameer71992
it looks like the second one, sorry if those pics didn't come out

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictu...ture_id=317252

Here's a close up of the fuse holder without the fuse. This is exactly what I have. The fuse does not slide into this, as a friend said it should. Do you see those metal slits in there? There's a screw going through the metal slit that prevents the fuse from sliding in all the way. Maybe it's there to secure the fuse in place, idk. When I get an allen key that will fit that screw, I will loosen it, and hopefully it will fit.
Never used kits before but yea take it apart, do what you have to do to make it fit. I assumed it would already have a fuse installed on it and all you have to do is tighten the ends of the power wire into it.
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:45 PM
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The factory rubber grommet in the firewall is behind the drivers side wheel. You can either take the wheel off or point them all the way to the left (thats what I did). Pop the clips off for the wheel liner, pull it off and you'll uncover the grommet. Use a screwdriver to poke a hole in the rubber and you should be able to easily fit your wire through.

This is what I did for my install. Its much easier than drilling a hole and theres much less to worry about (location, rust, getting the proper drill etc). Not to mention the whole process is easily reversible whereas drilling a hole through metal isn't.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyutyunnik
The factory rubber grommet in the firewall is behind the drivers side wheel. You can either take the wheel off or point them all the way to the left (thats what I did). Pop the clips off for the wheel liner, pull it off and you'll uncover the grommet. Use a screwdriver to poke a hole in the rubber and you should be able to easily fit your wire through.

This is what I did for my install. Its much easier than drilling a hole and theres much less to worry about (location, rust, getting the proper drill etc). Not to mention the whole process is easily reversible whereas drilling a hole through metal isn't.
In the interior of the car, that grommet you're talking about also has the hood release going through it, correct? If so, then I know which one you're talking about. Also, was the removal of the liner difficult? Was it held in with clips or screws?

Last edited by Sameer71992; 06-19-2012 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:57 PM
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those allen screws unscrew out...you put the wire in the hole....and then turn the screw back in to hold the wire
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:03 PM
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Drill 6 hole and try them all. Then see which one is your favorite!
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Sameer71992
In the interior of the car, that grommet you're talking about also has the hood release going through it, correct? If so, then I know which one you're talking about. Also, was the removal of the liner difficult? Was it held in with clips or screws?
Yes I believe it does, it wasn't hard at all it just takes some patience, I believe its just held in with clips but there might be one or two small bolts (it was a few years ago so I don't remember exactly). Its pretty standard work and theres no special tools needed, only basic knowledge.
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:07 AM
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why not just use the factory hole for the clutch pedal it has a gromet there already and the hole is like 3" dia
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:57 AM
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I went through the drivers fender, if you bull back the fender liner you will see the large grommet that enters the cabin right above the hood release. It is great location, easy to find, no drilling needed. You may need to slightly snip the rubber grommet to afford more room for the wire depending on what size it is.
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:07 PM
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The car's automatic unfortunately. I couldn't find a 5th gen maxima manual trans at the time and I needed a car desperately to commute to school.

Oh, and I figured out the problem. Rockford Fosgate wiring kits require a 1/8" allen wrench to properly secure the fuse in the holder. I still haven't wired the amp because I've been working excessively. When I get around to it within the next week or two I'm sure I'll be able to get it done just fine now that I know where everyone else ran their wires.
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Sameer71992
The car's automatic unfortunately. I couldn't find a 5th gen maxima manual trans at the time and I needed a car desperately to commute to school.

Oh, and I figured out the problem. Rockford Fosgate wiring kits require a 1/8" allen wrench to properly secure the fuse in the holder. I still haven't wired the amp because I've been working excessively. When I get around to it within the next week or two I'm sure I'll be able to get it done just fine now that I know where everyone else ran their wires.
Even the Automatics have a "hole" designed for a clutch pedal. It's just sealed. You can drill there and run the wire through that with a grommet. At least that's how it is on the 4th gen. I'm sure it's similar on the 5th gen.
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Old 06-25-2012, 03:38 PM
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2nd Page. See the last post.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...wires-amp.html
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Old 06-25-2012, 03:49 PM
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Thanks guys, I got a pretty good idea of how to run the wires now
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