What to do with the paint coming off my trunk lid?
07-19-2012, 04:38 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 52
What to do with the paint coming off my trunk lid?
Just wanted to hear some opinions. My car has a spot on the top of the trunk lid, near the rear, about 12"x4" where the paint is basically coming completely off. The rest of the car's paint is fine. I figure I have a few options, 1) Do nothing, 2) Get a cheap paint job on the trunk, 3) Sand, primer, and paint the spot myself. I was leaning towards #3. I mainly just want to paint over it to prevent it from spreading and make it less obvious. I dont care much if you can tell, it'll look better then peeling paint. #3 is about $50. I figure a cheap paint job on the trunk would be at least 200. Not sure what will happen if I do nothing.
07-19-2012, 05:00 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Just wanted to hear some opinions. My car has a spot on the top of the trunk lid, near the rear, about 12"x4" where the paint is basically coming completely off. The rest of the car's paint is fine. I figure I have a few options, 1) Do nothing, 2) Get a cheap paint job on the trunk, 3) Sand, primer, and paint the spot myself. I was leaning towards #3. I mainly just want to paint over it to prevent it from spreading and make it less obvious. I dont care much if you can tell, it'll look better then peeling paint. #3 is about $50. I figure a cheap paint job on the trunk would be at least 200. Not sure what will happen if I do nothing.
07-19-2012, 05:57 PM
#3
Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 115
Just wanted to hear some opinions. My car has a spot on the top of the trunk lid, near the rear, about 12"x4" where the paint is basically coming completely off. The rest of the car's paint is fine. I figure I have a few options, 1) Do nothing, 2) Get a cheap paint job on the trunk, 3) Sand, primer, and paint the spot myself. I was leaning towards #3. I mainly just want to paint over it to prevent it from spreading and make it less obvious. I dont care much if you can tell, it'll look better then peeling paint. #3 is about $50. I figure a cheap paint job on the trunk would be at least 200. Not sure what will happen if I do nothing.
i Painted alot of spots on my car , never done it before and looks perfect. get ur paint code, go to a auto body supply. tell them to make u a spray can of ur paint and a clear coat. any spray primer will be good enough .itl cost u about 50 bucks, if its 3 stage with a pearl itl be about 80. sand it down, start with 350 or so and work ur way up to 600. just sand enough to where its completly smooth. dont go to bare metal. make it sure its clean . tape around the area. prime it to where the tape starts. take the tape off and sand the marks with about 2000 grit . dont tape around the spot when u do ur base coat or ul get a line. just blend it in a inch or 2 past the area. the most important things are 1 make sure its clean 2 do it with no wind and 3 make sure its smooth cause after u paint ul see every misperfection. take ur time and itl come out good.
07-20-2012, 12:21 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: vancouver
Posts: 336
07-20-2012, 01:06 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: vancouver
Posts: 336
If u were planning on doing it yourself, what u could do on a nice day is take the deck lid off, R+I it yourself, that way your only paying the shop to scuff it down (wost case strip it right down, depending on if its the base and top coat is peeling/flaking) and paint rather then the paint and R+I's im sure that will save you 100 bucks. dont have them mask everything off, because it will start to peel again.
07-20-2012, 01:48 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
I've seen what happens when a fly lands on paint, and tries to get loose and leaves tracks going in all directions.
07-20-2012, 02:07 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 410
07-23-2012, 02:37 PM
#9
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 227
You'll never learn if you don't try it. If pro paint shop is place that kid earns money for college then surely you can do. The difference may be tools and techniques.
So, I have tried it. It did not match my car orig. paint but it is much much better than the obvious rusted area. Also, exposed sheet metal will turn into rusted hole and it is an eyesore. During the process, I came with these reasonings:
So I think the key steps are simple as:
1. prep the surface
2. pick the paint
3. apply clear gloss
So
1. prep the surface. Keep sanding, sanding, and sanding.
You should not stop until it looks like .... a skin of a teenager
. If you use a similar light tool as in the PDR (paintless dent repair - search youtube for that), it will help to tell when the surface is perfectly flat or not.
2. Pick the paint: Most DIY uses rattle can. It comes with fixed nozzle hole, and it is not fine enough. Paint droplets are microscopically as big as an egg, like O OO O OOO. Of couse, ask you to put these eggs together to form a shiny surface is an impossible task. pp says paint thinly, paint 2 -3 coats, wet sand. This is wrong myth too because in this process, you may stack up the eggs, thus build up the abysses and mountains, not the flat surface you desire to have _._.__._._.
So what you should do:
In the second/subsequence coat, change to use very fine nozzle, and use/mix paint with more viscosity, so that it will fill up the gaps and flatten up the surface, thus obtain flatter surface. This also helps you eliminate the yucky wet sanding, IMHO, not neccessary. I accidently oversprayed an area. That area was glossier than other area that I had control the whole time, however, it left an edge like in water spilling.
3. clear coat: I think the thinner the better for gloss. Not all clear coat is the same, transparency and viscosity matter.
So if i have to do all over again, I will prep the surface better, shop for the paint, first matching color and pick one with higher viscosity, and do paint with rattle can in 2 nozzle sizes - if it is not possible. I will extract paint from it - turn the rattle can up-side-down, release all pressure, then cut it and re-use the pre-mixed paint with an air sprayer (for cheap).
Heat and time affects paint's viscosity. Apply paint to hotter metal surface will help spread the paint thin. Old paint loses viscosity.
Well, it is just my thought and reasoning.
So, I have tried it. It did not match my car orig. paint but it is much much better than the obvious rusted area. Also, exposed sheet metal will turn into rusted hole and it is an eyesore. During the process, I came with these reasonings:
So I think the key steps are simple as:
1. prep the surface
2. pick the paint
3. apply clear gloss
So
1. prep the surface. Keep sanding, sanding, and sanding.
You should not stop until it looks like .... a skin of a teenager
. If you use a similar light tool as in the PDR (paintless dent repair - search youtube for that), it will help to tell when the surface is perfectly flat or not.2. Pick the paint: Most DIY uses rattle can. It comes with fixed nozzle hole, and it is not fine enough. Paint droplets are microscopically as big as an egg, like O OO O OOO. Of couse, ask you to put these eggs together to form a shiny surface is an impossible task. pp says paint thinly, paint 2 -3 coats, wet sand. This is wrong myth too because in this process, you may stack up the eggs, thus build up the abysses and mountains, not the flat surface you desire to have _._.__._._.
So what you should do:
In the second/subsequence coat, change to use very fine nozzle, and use/mix paint with more viscosity, so that it will fill up the gaps and flatten up the surface, thus obtain flatter surface. This also helps you eliminate the yucky wet sanding, IMHO, not neccessary. I accidently oversprayed an area. That area was glossier than other area that I had control the whole time, however, it left an edge like in water spilling.
3. clear coat: I think the thinner the better for gloss. Not all clear coat is the same, transparency and viscosity matter.
So if i have to do all over again, I will prep the surface better, shop for the paint, first matching color and pick one with higher viscosity, and do paint with rattle can in 2 nozzle sizes - if it is not possible. I will extract paint from it - turn the rattle can up-side-down, release all pressure, then cut it and re-use the pre-mixed paint with an air sprayer (for cheap).
Heat and time affects paint's viscosity. Apply paint to hotter metal surface will help spread the paint thin. Old paint loses viscosity.
Well, it is just my thought and reasoning.
07-23-2012, 02:43 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
You'll never learn if you don't try it. If pro paint shop is place that kid earns money for college then surely you can do. The difference may be tools and techniques.
So, I have tried it. It did not match my car orig. paint but it is much much better than the obvious rusted area. Also, exposed sheet metal will turn into rusted hole and it is an eyesore. During the process, I came with these reasonings:
So I think the key steps are simple as:
1. prep the surface
2. pick the paint
3. apply clear gloss
So
1. prep the surface. Keep sanding, sanding, and sanding.
You should not stop until it looks like .... a skin of a teenager. If you use a similar light tool as in the PDR (paintless dent repair - search youtube for that), it will help to tell when the surface is perfectly flat or not.
2. Pick the paint: Most DIY uses rattle can. It comes with fixed nozzle hole, and it is not fine enough. Paint droplets are microscopically as big as an egg, like O OO O OOO. Of couse, ask you to put these eggs together to form a shiny surface is an impossible task. pp says paint thinly, paint 2 -3 coats, wet sand. This is wrong myth too because in this process, you may stack up the eggs, thus build up the abysses and mountains, not the flat surface you desire to have _._.__._._.
So what you should do:
In the second/subsequence coat, change to use very fine nozzle, and use/mix paint with more viscosity, so that it will fill up the gaps and flatten up the surface, thus obtain flatter surface. This also helps you eliminate the yucky wet sanding, IMHO, not neccessary. I accidently oversprayed an area. That area was glossier than other area that I had control the whole time, however, it left an edge like in water spilling.
3. clear coat: I think the thinner the better for gloss. Not all clear coat is the same, transparency and viscosity matter.
So if i have to do all over again, I will prep the surface better, shop for the paint, first matching color and pick one with higher viscosity, and do paint with rattle can in 2 nozzle sizes - if it is not possible. I will extract paint from it - turn the rattle can up-side-down, release all pressure, then cut it and re-use the pre-mixed paint with an air sprayer (for cheap).
Heat and time affects paint's viscosity. Apply paint to hotter metal surface will help spread the paint thin. Old paint loses viscosity.
Well, it is just my thought and reasoning.
So, I have tried it. It did not match my car orig. paint but it is much much better than the obvious rusted area. Also, exposed sheet metal will turn into rusted hole and it is an eyesore. During the process, I came with these reasonings:
So I think the key steps are simple as:
1. prep the surface
2. pick the paint
3. apply clear gloss
So
1. prep the surface. Keep sanding, sanding, and sanding.
You should not stop until it looks like .... a skin of a teenager
. If you use a similar light tool as in the PDR (paintless dent repair - search youtube for that), it will help to tell when the surface is perfectly flat or not.2. Pick the paint: Most DIY uses rattle can. It comes with fixed nozzle hole, and it is not fine enough. Paint droplets are microscopically as big as an egg, like O OO O OOO. Of couse, ask you to put these eggs together to form a shiny surface is an impossible task. pp says paint thinly, paint 2 -3 coats, wet sand. This is wrong myth too because in this process, you may stack up the eggs, thus build up the abysses and mountains, not the flat surface you desire to have _._.__._._.
So what you should do:
In the second/subsequence coat, change to use very fine nozzle, and use/mix paint with more viscosity, so that it will fill up the gaps and flatten up the surface, thus obtain flatter surface. This also helps you eliminate the yucky wet sanding, IMHO, not neccessary. I accidently oversprayed an area. That area was glossier than other area that I had control the whole time, however, it left an edge like in water spilling.
3. clear coat: I think the thinner the better for gloss. Not all clear coat is the same, transparency and viscosity matter.
So if i have to do all over again, I will prep the surface better, shop for the paint, first matching color and pick one with higher viscosity, and do paint with rattle can in 2 nozzle sizes - if it is not possible. I will extract paint from it - turn the rattle can up-side-down, release all pressure, then cut it and re-use the pre-mixed paint with an air sprayer (for cheap).
Heat and time affects paint's viscosity. Apply paint to hotter metal surface will help spread the paint thin. Old paint loses viscosity.
Well, it is just my thought and reasoning.
07-23-2012, 03:17 PM
#11
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 227
Well, the op said he needs opinion.
Dupli-color has the rattle can with color guarantee@oreilly auto part, $6.99 per 12 fl. oz, $8.99 clear coat, and a few dollars for sand paper. So budget is $25 + his time.
Come back let us know the result if you decide to do it, ok?
Dupli-color has the rattle can with color guarantee@oreilly auto part, $6.99 per 12 fl. oz, $8.99 clear coat, and a few dollars for sand paper. So budget is $25 + his time.
Come back let us know the result if you decide to do it, ok?
07-23-2012, 04:15 PM
#12
Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 115
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture013.jpg
HERES 1 SPOT I PAINTED
FORGET DUPLI COLOR, AND GO TO UR LOCAL AUTO BODY SUPPLY, UL GET THE SAME PAINT THEY WOULD USE IN A CAN. ONLY DIFFERENCE IS U CANT BLEND LIKE A SHOP WOULD. LIKE THAT GUY SAID , PREP IS THE MOST IMPORTANT. SAND IT DOWN WITH 250 OR 350 AND WORK UR WAY UP TO 600 GRIT. 600 WILL MAKE IT REALLY SMOOTH. GET IT AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE EVEN IF IT TAKES U A LONG TIME.
DONT LISTEN TO THESE CLOWNS ABOUT DUST OR BUGS GETTING STUCK, EACH COAT U DO WILL DRY WITH IN 5 MIN AND BY ANY CHANCE U DO GET ANYTHING ON THE PAINT . LET IT DRY FOR ABOUT 30 MIN AND HIT IT WITH 2000 GRIT. ITL COME RITE OFF.
Last edited by heyhi; 07-23-2012 at 04:31 PM.
07-23-2012, 07:40 PM
#13
****s garbage, leave to the pros, take the thing off, its only 4 10mm bolts really easy take it down have them spray and be done
07-23-2012, 07:44 PM
#14
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/...DAVIDD82/3.jpg
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture013.jpg
HERES 1 SPOT I PAINTED
FORGET DUPLI COLOR, AND GO TO UR LOCAL AUTO BODY SUPPLY, UL GET THE SAME PAINT THEY WOULD USE IN A CAN. ONLY DIFFERENCE IS U CANT BLEND LIKE A SHOP WOULD. LIKE THAT GUY SAID , PREP IS THE MOST IMPORTANT. SAND IT DOWN WITH 250 OR 350 AND WORK UR WAY UP TO 600 GRIT. 600 WILL MAKE IT REALLY SMOOTH. GET IT AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE EVEN IF IT TAKES U A LONG TIME.
DONT LISTEN TO THESE CLOWNS ABOUT DUST OR BUGS GETTING STUCK, EACH COAT U DO WILL DRY WITH IN 5 MIN AND BY ANY CHANCE U DO GET ANYTHING ON THE PAINT . LET IT DRY FOR ABOUT 30 MIN AND HIT IT WITH 2000 GRIT. ITL COME RITE OFF.
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture013.jpg
HERES 1 SPOT I PAINTED
FORGET DUPLI COLOR, AND GO TO UR LOCAL AUTO BODY SUPPLY, UL GET THE SAME PAINT THEY WOULD USE IN A CAN. ONLY DIFFERENCE IS U CANT BLEND LIKE A SHOP WOULD. LIKE THAT GUY SAID , PREP IS THE MOST IMPORTANT. SAND IT DOWN WITH 250 OR 350 AND WORK UR WAY UP TO 600 GRIT. 600 WILL MAKE IT REALLY SMOOTH. GET IT AS SMOOTH AS POSSIBLE EVEN IF IT TAKES U A LONG TIME.
DONT LISTEN TO THESE CLOWNS ABOUT DUST OR BUGS GETTING STUCK, EACH COAT U DO WILL DRY WITH IN 5 MIN AND BY ANY CHANCE U DO GET ANYTHING ON THE PAINT . LET IT DRY FOR ABOUT 30 MIN AND HIT IT WITH 2000 GRIT. ITL COME RITE OFF.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post