Hay guys

Found this aftermarket 3.5" inch maf on this website was told it fits our maximas. Just double checking with u guys if our sensor will fit this maf?

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...+Hitachi+Style

Cheers Kurt

 

My limited knowledge of 'tuning' tells me that 'pipe' and sensitive element inside it should be treated as one calibrated 'sensor' which tells ECU how much air goes through. If you replace any part of the 'sensor' you will change sensor output compare to the stock one. When this happens you're supposed to compensate it by changing ECU fuel map accordingly. This is where actual 'tuning' begins - you bring your creation to dyno place and adjust fuel maps based on test run results. Obviously, this requires custom ECU which would allow you to do this.

If you're not going the above route replacing just part of the sensor will simply screw it up without providing any benefits, IMO. The above route implies that you also managed to significantly increase amount of air going through the engine by installing turbo charger. If you're not planning to install turbo then any slight optimizations in air flow by installing aftermarket intake parts should be easily measured by the stock MAF, no need to change it.

Stock ECU is already running engine at the optimum AFR, any change of that value will decrease its efficiency without any gain.

 

The 3.5" MAF has been shown to make power over stock 3". http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...ml#post7938417

OP, I think a Land Rover MAF housing is cheaper than those you linked.

 

dont expect the same results on a stock motor. also curious as to if there is tuning that needs to be done. its not a PnP swap is it?

 

Not just 3.5" MAF by itself - the guy went all the way: UTEC, custom intake, tuning. Sure, this would work. It just sounded to me OP was going to replace only MAF pipe and nothing else.

 

YES, tuning is required! It is PnP.
Right, the 3.5" MAF should never be done by itself because it will cause the car to run lean, thus requiring a tune. I made the mistake of assuming that OP already knew he needed to tune.

 

You contradict your self: a tune is required, ergo, it is NOT plug and play. Check your definition of PnP. In this case, it would possibly be considered "plug," although, on second thought, the necessity of couplers to the 3.5" tubing kind of throws that out, too.

 

You definitely need a tune. With the larger bore, way more air is passing the sensor. The sensor was calibrated for the stock diameter. There is a hot wire in the sensor and it cools as air passes through it. It calculates the air mass based on temperature drop vs volume. If you increase the volume, the sensor has no way of knowing that so you will run lean.

 

Can
Someone explain Wat safc is? And velocity stack is? I probably spelt it wrong lol. But I always here people using these words when larger mafs are talked about.?

 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=velocity+stack

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/apexi/safc.html

The only things you spelled wrong were "what" (and "spelled" if you are not British).

 

Oh sweet mate atleast I'll know what they are. Is a velocity stack filter needed and the safc for the afr readings? Is it essential I've had other cars tuned and not needed that.

 

LRMAF is cheaper, make sure you get the correct one
Tuning "device", i.e. MAF scaler is also needed
Wideband is required, or should be

BPi sells velocity stacks as well as Blox and other companies
SAFCII is the best priced, simplest MAF scaler out there
Siliconeintakes.com has pretty much everything you need as far as couplers and piping goes

I would suggest supporting mods of at least headers and a 3" catback and a 3" test pipe before doing this mod.

 

Cheers mate. I'm looking at uprevs aftermarket comp it has full control over the maf so I should be all sweet there when I do my full tune. Might have to get wideband 02 sensor as my 6th gen 05 model only has 4 wire 02 sensor witch is weird? Are velocity stacks definatly needed I've got another good brand 6" pod filter.? Lastly I've got headers and full 3" cat and catback. Is the 3" test pipe replace the flex just after the extractors?

Cheers kurt

 

you a 5.5 or 6th gen??? nvmd... i think you said it in the post.....

 

Yes 6th gen. I don't post in the 6th gen section anymore that forum has lack of everything and u get barley a reply. Just found out a lrmaf won't work with my 6th gen. 6th gen has a different bolt pattern for the maf.

 

Hmm, then the MAF bolt patter from the sensor might not work, not 100% sure.

BUT, since it's the same MAF as the Z33, you have a boatload of other options vs. us 5.5 gens.

I'd say get some 440's and a 4" intake/MAF tube.

 

Nmexmax. Do u have a raised rev limiter with your Ssim? How high is it and how do u go shifting at higher rpm?

Cheers

 

I have a 7100 limiter. I'm a 4AT so shifting as late as possible is what's needed in a given situation.

 

As well Kurt,
You can get with ray (Knights_yyz) and have him make you a larger bore pipe, from there you just have a block welded on that the sensor goes through. With the pipe and local welding we have done a couple cars like that. I dont have a picture of the 3.5 inch that Ray did for myself and chris, but i have a shot of the old 3 inch that was purchased from another member along the same lines. also cuts down on the couplers making it look cleaner

 

So where is the best place to purchase a LRMAF, and which is correct for 5.5 gen? I need this to complete my intake.

 

car-part.com or ebay.com.
I believe the years 99 to 03 Landrovers have the 3.5'' MAF that you want

 

Thanks can anyone confirm this. about to check ebay now

 

Thanks, About to respond, just checking my spelling now.

 

Ok found some errors, just fixing them now, want to keep you guys up to date.