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Front End Clunking Noise: Before Buying Any Parts Read This First

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Old 09-22-2012, 11:26 AM
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Front End Clunking Noise: Before Buying Any Parts Read This First

When i purchased my 2002 maxima i noticed a front end noise sort of like a clunking, metal on metal etc. sound plus a slight vibration in the front end. I right away assumed it was my front shocks. once i went ahead made an inspection on the front end i found nothing loose and my front shocks tested out fine. next thing I noticed was that my right lower control arm bushing was busted so I said "a ha there's my problem" purchased the energy suspension bushing kit and 2 lower ball joints.

Thinking this was the cause of the problem unfortunately it wasnt and it had shell out almost $220 in total and the noise was still there. It wasn't until i used the search bar on this website and noticed a lot of members said front end noise comes from the passenger side motor mount. I tried moving the engine with a pry bar and the mount seemed perfectly fine, but once i took it out i noticed it wasn't.

I had an i30 prior to this maxima which i had changed the front and rear mount on and still had the right and left motor mount in my garage. So i said "what the heck doesn't hurt to try and change it to see if it helps" Once i changed the right motor mount the clunking noise was gone but still had slight vibration when i went over a pothole. Further inspection of the front end gave me to notice that the front motor mount was busted and needed replacement. changed the front motor mount and now the car feels like a bentley (lol).

long story short, if you have front end noise please check your motor mounts first before spending money on parts you don't need because you believe that they are causing the noise.

Thank you, and sorry for the long story lol

Last edited by dominicanito49; 09-22-2012 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 09-22-2012, 03:41 PM
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Good advice, i am having this issue now ever since i get into an accident back in march lady was going 10mph and hit my driver side door, not close to the engine at it but when i change gear P To R i get the big vibration is like the engine going up and down or the tranny i am thinking it,s one of the mounts. i did a test turn the car on and cranked the RPM to 6 engine doesn't move at all slightly seems tights,. what method did u use to check for worn mount and how much did u pay for the parts?
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:16 PM
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I had a clunking noise that turned out to be the front motor mount (by the radiator). I finally noticed that when I parked the car and turned off the engine, I would hear the clunking as the engine stopped. Since I was parked and not moving, that ruled out the suspension.

But to check the motor mounts, you have to "load" the engine. Just reving it doesn't do it. With an auto trans, put the car in gear, keep your foot on the brake and then rev the engine while you watch the engine for movement. Do this in both drive and reverse.

If you have a manual trans, it is a bit harder to do this as you need 3 feet, one for the gas, one for the clutch and one for the brake. Actually you use the parking brake since you don't heve 3 feet, but it is a little more dangerous.
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:35 PM
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OP: sounds like you waisted no money. You did an educated evaluation and replaced legitimate bad parts. Although the noise was not suspension related in your case, you were methodical and now have even greater enjoyment and benifit beyond simply eliminating a noise.

Primary thing I've learned on the 5/5.5 gen Maximas, nearly every frigg'n peice of rubber up under the front is due to be replaced every 8-10 years. I've enjoyed every performance mod on my max. But the ones that made me truly love to be in and drive my car have been simply replacing motor mounts, torque mounts, control arms, ball joints, etc. Till then, front end was a slush bucket - ruining my driving experience even with the hp mods.
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
I had a clunking noise that turned out to be the front motor mount (by the radiator). I finally noticed that when I parked the car and turned off the engine, I would hear the clunking as the engine stopped. Since I was parked and not moving, that ruled out the suspension.

But to check the motor mounts, you have to "load" the engine. Just reving it doesn't do it. With an auto trans, put the car in gear, keep your foot on the brake and then rev the engine while you watch the engine for movement. Do this in both drive and reverse.

If you have a manual trans, it is a bit harder to do this as you need 3 feet, one for the gas, one for the clutch and one for the brake. Actually you use the parking brake since you don't heve 3 feet, but it is a little more dangerous.
i am also having the knocking sound when the engine is off it doesnt happen right away like 2 minutes later i can hear it from inside my house i always assumed that,s how the engine cools off..... Load the engine what do u mean by that take the whole thing off?
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Lt.Tealc
i am also having the knocking sound when the engine is off it doesnt happen right away like 2 minutes later i can hear it from inside my house i always assumed that,s how the engine cools off..... Load the engine what do u mean by that take the whole thing off?
By load, I mean that you have to make the engine work. If you rev the engine while in neutral, the engine doesn't have any resistance to reving up.

But if you hear a noise 2 minutes AFTER you have turned the engine off, I don't think it is a motor mount. If you have an automatic transmission, the electric motor mounts could be bad and continue to make noise after you turn the engine off. But they make a kind of buzzing noise, not a clunk or thunk.

I don't have any idea what could make a clunk loud enough to hear in your house 2 minutes after you have turned the engine off. Sorry.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:32 PM
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Thanks dominicanito49, I got the same problem, checked the whole 9 yards of suspension but still at a loose. Your post gives me a new way to think. It's dark now but I'll check it tomorrow . Thanks again.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
By load, I mean that you have to make the engine work. If you rev the engine while in neutral, the engine doesn't have any resistance to reving up.

But if you hear a noise 2 minutes AFTER you have turned the engine off, I don't think it is a motor mount. If you have an automatic transmission, the electric motor mounts could be bad and continue to make noise after you turn the engine off. But they make a kind of buzzing noise, not a clunk or thunk.

I don't have any idea what could make a clunk loud enough to hear in your house 2 minutes after you have turned the engine off. Sorry.
that knocking sound never bothered me it rarely happens like once a week or so, i will try your technique and see if the engine shakes, will also have my mechanic inspect the mounts since my oil change is due soon.. thanks mate
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by erictown
Thanks dominicanito49, I got the same problem, checked the whole 9 yards of suspension but still at a loose. Your post gives me a new way to think. It's dark now but I'll check it tomorrow . Thanks again.
Glad I can help, keep me posted
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:14 PM
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I recently tested out the motor mounts in my wife's '91 Maxima. It has an auto. so it's easy to do following the advice above. Wow. The engine jumps up at least 4-6 inches in the front! Now I know exactly what a bad mount looks like. I then tested the mounts in my '02 and they barely let the engine move at all. Of course I don't know if the "load" test really puts much pressure on the passenger side mount, which I've long suspected of being bad.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:38 PM
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The most common mounts to fail are the front and rear as they take most of the torque from the engine. The 2 sides get a little torque but they are more like "hold the engine from tilting" type mounts. I've read posts from people who did have to replace the passenger side mount but have never seen a method for testing those mounts.
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