user name001

i found this vid on youtube, its the EXACT same problem i have. i have searched and searched and replaced this and that.

has anyone got an idea of why this is happening.. i have read alot of posts with simularities but none to be the same or the solution was never found or posted. i sent the maker of this video a message, but never heard back from him.


i have replaced- TPS, MAFS, upper plenum gasket, fuel pump assembly, FPR, PCV, plugs, amongst other non related items.

i have cleaned- throttle body, IACV, upper combustion chamber, injectors, amongst other things

i have checked - for vaccuum leaks, tested caliberated TPS, MAFS, timing, 02 sensors( which i really dont even know how to read really) manifold absolute pressure sensor, and a few other i know i have forgotten.

its very frustrating.. its the exact same as this video when its cold.. in "P" i can get the RPM's to 1700 and then it drops down and wobbles/pulsates at 1500 RPM. in drive it slightly rocks/hesitates at that RPM range, then it warms up and its almost completley gone, its still kinda there though.. cruising around i can feel it, almost like its hunting, taking off i can slighty feel the inconsistant acceleration at the same RPM. driving it when its cold the hesitation is more around 11-1400 though so when the motor has load, it makes it hesitate earlier. my idle is perfect, its not rough. when cold its around 1250RPM and slowly as it warms up it drops. in gear when its warm it idles at 750 rpm. i have done idle relearn a few times, i have taken it to the dealership thinking i need to update my ECM, they told me it was up to date. i have disconnnected that battery over night, i have added a ground wire from the trans. mount bolt to the chassis, i tried regroundingmy MAFS. nothing has made even the slightest difference.

NO CEL OR GHOST CODES BTW.

2000 auto SE 203,000kms

on another note, this car sounds like poop!

L36

iTrader: (4)

I would dump a can of seafoam on a full tank of gas to see if that would help solve the problem. Also use highest octane gas you have available to see if it helps.

user name001

did that, more than once too. i have ran it through the booster as well, and straight through the TB and let it sit.. LOTS OF SMOKE! it was fun but it didnt change a thing. I also run only 94. i have my timing advanced so i dont mess around with lower octanes. thanks for the input though.


a few recent posts i have read people are claiming that it has to do with the alternator. i have not replaced mine ever, or gone near it at all. ill check that out tomorrow, although i dont see how it could have anything to do with it.

L36

iTrader: (4)

When the car is idling, your voltage should be in 14.4-14.8 range. A bad ground can also cause this. Id check all the ground wires as well.

user name001

Thanks L36, i will check that when i go out in a hour. lets say it is the ALT. if i rev it up to the affected RPM range, would i still normally want to see 14.4-14.8? or would that reading change with more throttle applied?

T_Behr904

Some cars are more cold natured than others.

Do you have a tune?

user name001

T_behr904-No tune, stock other than a simple timing advance.

L36- I just checked my alt. It was 15.1 cold, and 14.2 warm.. I need to varify with a different multi meter because im not too sure about this one im using.

T_Behr904

Try going back to factory set timing maybe and see if that does anything.

user name001

I had this issue befor i had it advanced :-(.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I would suggest doing the resistance checks on the IACV the ECTS and see what that shows.

15.1 volts on the alternator is too high, try another meter since you have doubts about yours.

user name001

DennisMik- will do, although im uncertain of it being the IACV because it idles perfectly.

Its just if i slowly rev it or hold it at 1700 it acts up. I can rev it normally and it just slightly hiccups in that RPM range. If i drive away slow in the morning it hesitates at 1300ish, if i boot it, i feel just a minor hiccup. The video may be confusing, he's not idleing the maxima in the video, hes gently revving it and its stucking and bouncing around.

I did replace the ECTS( forgot to add to the list) and i will double check tomorrow on that Alternator reading with a different multi-meter.

Thanks.

L36

iTrader: (4)

Don't forget to check your grounds. A bad ground can cause a colossal number of issues.

user name001

When i get some spare time at work today i will clean and inspect my grounds as well.

Thanks.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

I had a similar (not identical) issue with the speed sensor thing on the top backside of the tranny. It's not the one for the guage. But it's rotory just the same. I replaced (fixed it actually) and my problem went away. Yours may just be bad or going bad. Mine was essentially unplugged (broke the plug off when installing the original Wrayth mount on the tranny (some of you may recall my posts on that install!!) and so I had to jb weld the plastic plug back and reconnect it.....all was fine.

user name001

Thanks! The speed sensor, are you referring to the RSS? and is the RSS the sensor with the orange gear ?

On another note, we had a 2010 maxima come in with the ds2 lights, we had to replace the lights because there were minor cracks on the housing. Looks like ill be installing the bulbs and balast into my headlights!! I just have to figure out how to wire it now! im pretty excited so i just thought id throw that out there lol.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

I honestly never looked up the actual name. I don't recall the gear color, only my speedo still worked with it broke/unplugged. Single 10mm bolt to remove, accessed through drivers side wheel well.

defiance

iTrader: (1)

How is your IACV ? Is it in fine condition ? Because mine has one of the corners of it broken off and its pretty much a vacuum leak now. Found this out when I went in to clean the TB. The IACV is mounted to the bottom of the thing and one of the screws that secure is missing and a chunk of aluminum is broken off right where the screw hole would be. Weird issue but thought I would throw that one out there for you to check user001

user name001

i have taken my RSS out and cleaned it a few months back, i was told testing it, you need a drill and you have to spin the gear while a multi meter is hooked up. seems kinda difficult.. im going to see if there is an easier way to do it through the FSM.

defiance- im going to completley remove it today and clean it again. i have great idle, but i also have a starting issue so maybe its related to the IACV. the only other thing i can think of that i havent really looked into is my injectors. i dont really have any other issues other than a hard start occasionally, and this pulsation. i will clean the IACV and post back though.

thanks.

edit: i know when i bought the car, i called the nissan dealership ut was regularly serviced at and it was in there back in 01 for the IACV. i thought she said for a tsb. so im assuming it probably fried the ECM etc. at that time. i might pull out the ECM and see if there are any burnt chips. maybe they replaced the IACV and didnt repair the ECM if thats even possible..

i also checked all my grounds, and cleaned them. i replaced my NEG. batt clamp (cracked) and added a ground from batt. to trans housing bolt, and from engine to chassis. no change.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If the IACV fried the chips in the ECU, and the IACV is replaced without fixing the ECU, the car will not idle steady. It will surge up and down between 2K and dying. Plus the ECU should throw the P0505 code.

user name001

I dont have either of those, thanks for the clarification DennisMik.

LazYRaCeR

make sure there isn't anything clogging an intake or exhaust pipe. fuel filter? fuel pump? fuel injectors?

user name001

Intake manifold is fine, when i had it off for the plenum gasket replacement i cleaned/inspected it. I have since removed the stock air box and put in an SRI(problem was there befor), i inspected the cup on the VI and its still attached and it opens and closes with throttle like its supposed too. cats are good and i dont think i have an exhaust leak, ive looked it over and over. replaced fuel filter/sock and pump assembly a while back (problem was there befor) i havent done much to the injectors. I tried the ?tws4? 2 cycle, it didnt help this problem which i know it wouldnt fix a faulty injector anyways but could free up a sticky one. i think if it was an injector i would have other issues as well. I have no check engine light, and no other drivability issues other than in the RPM range and the occasional hard start ( cranks and cranks, sometimes fires up nice after the long cranks, sometimes kinda sputters to life but only sputters for a second or two)

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There are 2 ground wires that are bolted to the timing chain cover just to the left of the oil filler cap. The Nissan FSM says to clean and tighten these 2 wires for a bunch of different problems, so give that a try.

user name001

i did that yesterday, the two bolts on top of the timing chain cover held by 2 10mm bolts, i believe they are for the cam and crank sensor grounds if im not mistaken. cleaned and slightly sanded with some p320 along with all my other grounds. i did add another 4 guage ground from my chassis (where NEG. battery cable mounts) to one of the bolts on the valve cover today, im just letting it sit for a bit to cool down, im going to see if there is any difference and ill report back.

so in total i have cleaned all major grounds, added one ground from NEG battery terminal to trans housing bolt, and another ground from chassis to a bolt on the valve cover that
protrudes into the block.

thanks DennisMik.

edit: still there, no change..