direct fuse box grounds
When I installed my ETL, my car was acting stupid. Wouldn't start and after it wouldn't start, it be dead. Turned out the grounds that you need to disconnect and reconnect weren't making contact because I didn't clean where the ETL was mounted very well at all. Cleaned the grounds, no problem.
Another time when I installed the SAFCII and WB with throttle position data, I would step on the throttle, and it would go into limp mode.
Added 2 grounding straps (small green wires) from the ECU to the chassis, in this case it was the metal grounding bracket connected to the ECU, same thing, problem went away.
Another time in my 4th gen, lights would always dim when on the brake and radio would die out. Replaced the battery grounds, (body/engine block) cleaned them extremely well and applied a new set negative wires, problem went away.
Another time when I installed the SAFCII and WB with throttle position data, I would step on the throttle, and it would go into limp mode.
Added 2 grounding straps (small green wires) from the ECU to the chassis, in this case it was the metal grounding bracket connected to the ECU, same thing, problem went away.
Another time in my 4th gen, lights would always dim when on the brake and radio would die out. Replaced the battery grounds, (body/engine block) cleaned them extremely well and applied a new set negative wires, problem went away.
so basically nissan just designed a cluster with hotspots in it that become less noticeable when it's brightened.
The most you can do is add ground wires and add a capacitor to your system. If its a 3.5 i have heard that you can use the 140amp alternator(vs maxima 110amp) out of the +04 Quest.
I was having a voltage issue running my system on stock grounding, the adding extra chassis grounds pretty much cleared that up and they just came from ebay they were nothing special really. Just be wise bout your grounds, nothing needs to go to the alternator, or the positive terminal unless its an amp power wire.
I was having a voltage issue running my system on stock grounding, the adding extra chassis grounds pretty much cleared that up and they just came from ebay they were nothing special really. Just be wise bout your grounds, nothing needs to go to the alternator, or the positive terminal unless its an amp power wire.
http://forums.maxima.org/8683328-post24.html
btw you might have missed the part where he said he installed a 200A alternator AND a "high-amperage battery" in the other thread...
http://forums.maxima.org/8683328-post24.html
http://forums.maxima.org/8683328-post24.html
i like this part:
i am not an electrical engineer. i do understand how it all works and consider myself highly intelligent.
sadly, i now have hotspots
GOT'EM!!!!!!!!!!!
That might work for some people.... but that doesn't mean that grounding the sh*t out of your fuse box ond do the same thing! he his not wrong... it just means he is different....
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 539
From: Ontario, Canada
The most you can do is add ground wires and add a capacitor to your system. If its a 3.5 i have heard that you can use the 140amp alternator(vs maxima 110amp) out of the +04 Quest.
I was having a voltage issue running my system on stock grounding, the adding extra chassis grounds pretty much cleared that up and they just came from ebay they were nothing special really. Just be wise bout your grounds, nothing needs to go to the alternator, or the positive terminal unless its an amp power wire.
I was having a voltage issue running my system on stock grounding, the adding extra chassis grounds pretty much cleared that up and they just came from ebay they were nothing special really. Just be wise bout your grounds, nothing needs to go to the alternator, or the positive terminal unless its an amp power wire.
I am having some of the same symptoms the OP was claiming in his "big 5" thread. Dimming lights when the subs hit, and a rough idle sometimes (I know this could be a lot of things) but its worth a try.
So if I understand correctly, by adding chassis grounds, that would be the negative battery, alt and engine grounds? You mean upgrade them to a thicker gauge wire, correct? Would it be wise to upgrade the amp's ground as well? As you can tell, I know little nothing about electrical.
Remember what happened the last time you repeated "Beetlejuice" over and over?
I KNEW IT WAS A MOPAR!!!
I forgot to mention, I do have a capacitor (not a flux capacitor haha), sorry I had to, which I believe is one ohm. The only other wire running to my positive terminal is the power wire for the amp, with a fuse of course. Nothing to the alt, which I would consider swapping for the higher amperage model if it craps out, thanks for the suggestion.
I am having some of the same symptoms the OP was claiming in his "big 5" thread. Dimming lights when the subs hit, and a rough idle sometimes (I know this could be a lot of things) but its worth a try.
So if I understand correctly, by adding chassis grounds, that would be the negative battery, alt and engine grounds? You mean upgrade them to a thicker gauge wire, correct? Would it be wise to upgrade the amp's ground as well? As you can tell, I know little nothing about electrical.
I am having some of the same symptoms the OP was claiming in his "big 5" thread. Dimming lights when the subs hit, and a rough idle sometimes (I know this could be a lot of things) but its worth a try.
So if I understand correctly, by adding chassis grounds, that would be the negative battery, alt and engine grounds? You mean upgrade them to a thicker gauge wire, correct? Would it be wise to upgrade the amp's ground as well? As you can tell, I know little nothing about electrical.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 211
When I installed my ETL, my car was acting stupid. Wouldn't start and after it wouldn't start, it be dead. Turned out the grounds that you need to disconnect and reconnect weren't making contact because I didn't clean where the ETL was mounted very well at all. Cleaned the grounds, no problem.
Another time when I installed the SAFCII and WB with throttle position data, I would step on the throttle, and it would go into limp mode.
Added 2 grounding straps (small green wires) from the ECU to the chassis, in this case it was the metal grounding bracket connected to the ECU, same thing, problem went away.
Another time in my 4th gen, lights would always dim when on the brake and radio would die out. Replaced the battery grounds, (body/engine block) cleaned them extremely well and applied a new set negative wires, problem went away.
Another time when I installed the SAFCII and WB with throttle position data, I would step on the throttle, and it would go into limp mode.
Added 2 grounding straps (small green wires) from the ECU to the chassis, in this case it was the metal grounding bracket connected to the ECU, same thing, problem went away.
Another time in my 4th gen, lights would always dim when on the brake and radio would die out. Replaced the battery grounds, (body/engine block) cleaned them extremely well and applied a new set negative wires, problem went away.
everyone is so quick to judge.
may i ask where is the ecu grounds? i will deff add some. do you think you can snap a pic?
so again, your car is now back to normal operating conditions and your "control" was a car with issues that you fixed.
....where in there did he say that he ground the holy sh*t out of his engine bay so it looks like a brillo pad orgy?
I forgot to mention, I do have a capacitor (not a flux capacitor haha), sorry I had to, which I believe is one ohm. The only other wire running to my positive terminal is the power wire for the amp, with a fuse of course. Nothing to the alt, which I would consider swapping for the higher amperage model if it craps out, thanks for the suggestion.
I am having some of the same symptoms the OP was claiming in his "big 5" thread. Dimming lights when the subs hit, and a rough idle sometimes (I know this could be a lot of things) but its worth a try.
So if I understand correctly, by adding chassis grounds, that would be the negative battery, alt and engine grounds? You mean upgrade them to a thicker gauge wire, correct? Would it be wise to upgrade the amp's ground as well? As you can tell, I know little nothing about electrical.
I am having some of the same symptoms the OP was claiming in his "big 5" thread. Dimming lights when the subs hit, and a rough idle sometimes (I know this could be a lot of things) but its worth a try.
So if I understand correctly, by adding chassis grounds, that would be the negative battery, alt and engine grounds? You mean upgrade them to a thicker gauge wire, correct? Would it be wise to upgrade the amp's ground as well? As you can tell, I know little nothing about electrical.
Your added sound system should not cause a rough idle. Adding grounds i dont think is going to solve that. Changing spark plugs and coilpacks can thou if you havent done that yet.
Try adding grounds see if it helps, just engine to frame, and 1 or 2 from the negative terminal to the frame/body again.
He's not backing you up at all. He's proving that if you take something with a bad ground and fix it, it will work properly which is exactly what you did. YOUR car had a bad ground. Not maximas, your car. By grounding your car all you did was fix your problem not increase your performance.
adding wires still doesn't alter the resistance of the car's unibody. And using 2 small wires still doesn't do an inherently better job than one big one.
No stupid, you still dont get it. He has nothing running off THE POSITIVE TERMINAL to his alternator or anywhere else. Grounds are fine but extra power wires bypassing fuses......stupid idea, VERY stupid. You think you are the only person to add grounds to your car to solve electrical issues such as dimming lights?
Without a doubt, quite possibly, unequivocally, maybe.
Right...I'm sure. And by "thought" you mean.....?
Precisely.
You are correct.
You are more correct.
Damn, beat me to it
i have put more thought into thisthan u think
Precisely.
Damn, beat me to it
Last edited by Amerikaner83; Dec 12, 2012 at 01:31 PM.
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 14 (10 members and 4 guests)
CapedCadaver [Ratios Matter] , Amerikaner83, Aviation005, Brl24, Crusher103+, Ephraim, litch, merovi, sicivic89
CapedCadaver [Ratios Matter] , Amerikaner83, Aviation005, Brl24, Crusher103+, Ephraim, litch, merovi, sicivic89
dude.
what? :metalmax:
and yes for the record i am all about 'dat asian body' too, i just prefer it to be on pale irish/scottish-like chicks than brown asian chicks. See "ellen page".
when i get to work today im going to count all the cars with blown fuse problems. If we get 100 customers i bet 20 of them will have blown fuses.
a couple of days ago a 4th gen came with 3 blown fuses, brake lights, signal lights, and o2 sensor. no idea how an o2 sensor fuse blew but it did.
a couple of days ago a 4th gen came with 3 blown fuses, brake lights, signal lights, and o2 sensor. no idea how an o2 sensor fuse blew but it did.
for the record, my wife is a 5'2 redhead, pale irish.....
I was just using the stereotype of asians being petite. Self depricating humor sir, I don't pull any punches with the small pecker jokes. It really isn't as much of a handicap as people say it is.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 539
From: Ontario, Canada
The Op is just on some other stuff.
Your added sound system should not cause a rough idle. Adding grounds i dont think is going to solve that. Changing spark plugs and coilpacks can thou if you havent done that yet.
Try adding grounds see if it helps, just engine to frame, and 1 or 2 from the negative terminal to the frame/body again.
Your added sound system should not cause a rough idle. Adding grounds i dont think is going to solve that. Changing spark plugs and coilpacks can thou if you havent done that yet.
Try adding grounds see if it helps, just engine to frame, and 1 or 2 from the negative terminal to the frame/body again.
My main concern was just the dimming lights when the subs hit, and basically just wanting to ground my car as well as possible, the right way. I was planning on buying the grounding kit available in the classifieds, would this accomplish what I am trying to do? No offense to the seller, I just hate asking the person who wants to sell me the product if it will work for me, the answer is almost always yes, even if it should have been something else.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 211
Holy hell.
He's not backing you up at all. He's proving that if you take something with a bad ground and fix it, it will work properly which is exactly what you did. YOUR car had a bad ground. Not maximas, your car. By grounding your car all you did was fix your problem not increase your performance.
He's not backing you up at all. He's proving that if you take something with a bad ground and fix it, it will work properly which is exactly what you did. YOUR car had a bad ground. Not maximas, your car. By grounding your car all you did was fix your problem not increase your performance.
the wires i added made the difference!! read ppl, read!!!