mclasser

I bought a set of rear pads and rotors for my 02 I35 and went over to my local indy to have them installed. When it came time to compress the caliper pistons, he had a really tough time. He had the bleeder valves cracked open when doing this but they were still a real PITA. The pistons required a special clamp that fit into them to turn them. The rear passenger piston was difficult but the rear driver was even worse. The damn thing required the force of two techs to get it in just enough for the new pads to fit. The techs said the rear calipers are likely seized. I drove the car home, carefully making sure to bed in the new brakes and noticed a blue ring forming on the rear driver rotor right around the wheel hub. The rotor and wheel were also pretty hot. The passenger rear rotor was also warm but did not have the blue ring. I really don't notice any pulling or vibrations when braking. Do the above symptoms basically prove my rear calipers are toast?

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

Seized rear calipers are a common problem on 4th and 5th gens.

The pistons that turn are more prone to seizing. You can rebuild them with new pistons or replace them altogether.

mclasser

Thanks for the reply. I did not know seized calipers were a common problem in these cars. I did a test to check for frozen calipers this evening. I jacked up the rear of the car so both back wheels were up off the ground. I spun both wheels with my hand and they did so pretty easily. The rear pass. wheel seemed to spin the most freely. The driver side wheel that had the most stubborn caliper spun, but a little less freely than the other one. Yet the difference in easiness was very small. With both sides spinning relatively easily, it was hard for me discern whether the calipers were seized or not. I also had a helper press down the brakes. With the brakes applied, both wheels did not move at all. The moment the brakes were let off, the wheel spun again without a delay. So now I am confused. Are the calipers done for or not!?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

They didn't get the pistons retracted enough if the rotor is turning blue. the brake pad is pressing too hard when it is supposed to be released and this dragging causes heat.

In normal conditions, the pistons are designed to be screwed back into the caliper and should turn freely with hardly any effort. If the pistons would not turn, the brake cylinders are bad.

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

They need to be replaced/rebuilt if your rotors are heating up. Under normal operation the rotors cool with the air and only heat up marginally under normal braking circumstances. Easiest way to check is to check for rust/pitting on the piston of the caliper, if there is a good amount of corrosion it is only a matter of time before more moisture gets in and the whole thing seizes completely. The reason the piston is hard to screw back on is the pitting of the surface of the piston.

Like this,

If your piston looks like that, it should never be put back into service.

This is a new piston.

Luigi Martini

Don't bother rebuilding them as its not guaranteed it will be successful, especially if that piston looks like the one above. Most people suggest buying new and to replace both sides. Cost isn't too crazy, just make sure you return the core.

You won't be able to see the actual damage as the side with the piston is out of sight. If you dismantled everything you would surely be able to tell if there is an issue. Discoloration of the rotor and an abnormally worn pad on the inner side.

Another thing, don't use your e-brake if you live in the cold, snowy, crappy north.

2brosgixxer

One of mine was seized closed...ie, It seized so that the piston would not push out to push the pads against the rotor. Moral...just because the wheel is spinning freely for you does not mean the caliper is not seized. If they could not get the piston to spin back easily...like with a pair of needle nose pliers easy, it's toast. Like it was said in a post above, very common on the 4 & 5 Gens

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Hard to get away with not using the parking brake with 6MT. This is why when I do my rear brakes I'm using the excuse to upgrade to 350Z brakes. They use a small drum brake inside the rotor instead of this rotating piston crap.

DjHackStyle

And this is a simple diy project? Any threads i can read up on this?

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Yes there is a thread or two. As far as simple... I haven't done it yet but it does require some mods. That and you're looking at like 7-800 in parts. I'll see if I can find the info.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

If you think this is a simple DIY prepare your anus!

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Correction, it's 300ZX rear brakes. Gonna be a 'itch.
http://www.blehmco.com/rear_kit.htm#

I'm still going to go for it. I can always drive the Impala while I spend time cussing at this job. Not something I'm doing anytime soon. Maybe Spring '14.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

You do know that Matt quit selling right?

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Ummm...No. Well that just made me sad.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

http://www.fastbrakes.com/product_p/...inch%20kit.htm

mclasser

Thanks for all the replies, guys. I think I'm going to just swap out both calipers and call it a day.

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, but that's nearly twice the price. And still has the stupid mechanical piston for the parking brake. The whole point of the 300ZX brakes was the drum hub. Oh well.

1awesomemax

both my calipers were seized on my 01 maxima, seems to be pretty common

Danimal94

One of the first things i had to upgrade were my read pads and rotors on my '00 Maxipad. Bought all the parts from Napa for cheap and found out my calipers were siezed. It was like $119 for each caliper with a $60 core charge. Not bad! Bled them and havent touched them since. Ive got a set of drilled and slotted rotors for the rear, but i may scrap them and do some research on the 300zx brakes, seeing how Michigans upper penninsula is a little cold and the e-brake is stiff from time to time. Thanks Guys!

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't bother with the 300ZX brakes. Without the brackets that Blehmco made it will be impossible to make them work.

Danimal94

Sounds exspencive! Drilled and slotted it is!!

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

I've heard that most of those drilled and slotted rotors are poorly made and crack often. I'll probably just end up buying OEM calipers and painting them a nice black. Maybe stencil Nissan in white or something.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Get a set of brembo blanks versus the slotted and cross-drilled. The slotted and cross-drilled are just fancy cr*p which doesn't really add to your performance (unless you are doing some racing). They also have a higher tendency to warp or crack is not of good quality.

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

^ No need to spend thousands on brakes if car is for normal day to day driving.

DjHackStyle

Brembo blanks dont cost thousands theyre actually quite cheap

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

I was referring to this redonkulous post
http://www.fastbrakes.com/product_p/...inch%20kit.htm

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Man...are people taking stupid pills this Holiday season?

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Just look at the fuel pump thread then judge

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I think Analviator's mere presence is bringing down the rest of the members....

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

I agree

Luigi Martini

True, but I just find the flattest spot wherever I go and leave it in first. Knowing the problems with the rear calipers I refuse to use the e-brake in winter. Its not something I want to deal with every two years.