AKA_04

So I ran into the VAIS bolt failure on my 02 Maxima and I've replaced the left head as a result. After setting my timing I could not turn the engine over which meant removing my freshly set timing cover . After removing my timing system and setting the cams in the "safe" position I am still not able to turn the engine over completely, I get about 180 degrees out of it.

When looking at the left cylinder head the engine sticks when the right cylinder (#6) is at TDC. I can then turn the engine in the proper direction and the left cylinder (#2) moves through TDC with no problem. The engine then sticks when the middle cylinder (#4) hits TDC.

The replacement head has a different casting number L-8J1 1R (replacement) vs. L-8J1 7R (original). I'm sure I'm not misreading the 1 and 7 . Could this be my problem? I don't find it likely since I am able to turn at least one cylinder through TDC on the replacement head.

Is it possible that my car being in park is preventing my from turning my engine through by hand? Again, no timing system and the cams are in the "safe" positions.

Any help would be appreciated. Also, if you ever knock out one of the pins on your exhaust cam I found that freezing the pin and reinserting it works well, had to give it a tap with a small hammer though.

AKA_04

OK, so I've ruled out the casting numbers on the head. Everyone probably already knows that "L-8J1" are the only numbers that mattered. Pretty well ruled out the transmission/park theory before I posted but it seemed like it was worth mentioning

New theory: I have a spun bearing on cylinder #6.

When I pulled the VAIS bolt remnants from cylinder #6 it was mashed beyond recognition. Could the pressure of smashing the VAIS bolt against the cylinder head have caused the bottom rod bearing to spin around and end up sharing part of the top bearing space? The engine stops when the #4 and #6 cylinders are at TDC but cylinder #6 is also at the bottom of it's stroke when #4 is at TDC. If the bearing were spun I'm thinking that the stroke of the #6 piston was extended at the top and bottom positions, enough that the piston hits the head and, possibly, the crank (or something) at the top and bottom of it's stroke.

I've had this car since July and only had it on the road for a month and a half. It's been in the garage since the beginning of September. Any thoughts???

AKA_04

I quickly, and unhappily, pulled the upper oil pan and checked the bearing on cylinder #6. It's OK, no slippage or damage of any kind. Getting ready to pull the rear timing cover and the new cylinder head. Really hoping that I've just got some carbon buildup on the other bank preventing the engine from turning over.

Easy question now: Can I reuse my head bolts and head gasket since the engine was not fired?

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

The head bolts are probably fine. If the head gaskets are the crush type (I've never pulled a head on my Max) then they should be replaced.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

the fsm says that if the head bolts are within spec, you can reuse them. In my experience, just replace them. A friend and I were replacing the head gasket on a 6th gen two weeks ago. When we went to torque the head bolts, we snapped one of the head bolts. The thing is, it never even reached the final torque value, on contrary, it turned very easy since it was already stretched. Needless to say, we had to pull the head off, replace the head gasket and reinstall with new bolts (after waiting a week to get the new bolts in).

rebelhell

iTrader: (1)

I'm guessing he already replaced the head bolts and is now having to remove the head again to find a problem. I seriously doubt the bolts have stretched from just torquing them to spec. I'd replace the gasket though. It sucks, but there's really not much you can do about it.

AKA_04

After removing the replacement head I can turn the engine through but it still sticks in the same spots, I have to get some momentum going before it will turn through the "sticky" spots. My money says this is carbon build up.

Since I didn't remove the block from the engine bay during the head replacement I also didn't deck the head . 1600 grit sandpaper and lots of acetone is what I used the first time around, since I've got the head off I'll use a straight edge to check the block for imperfections as the dealership mentioned that might be a good idea.

Yes, I have the crush type gasket. I also have a kit that gave me 16 head bolts and the head gasket for the left and right heads. I will replace the left gasket (the one I've used already) and use the new head bolts that I have. I was thinking about removing the right head to clean it up since I have the right head gasket but if there's even the smallest chance of breaking one of the new and barely used head bolts I'll avoid it. I've got one more semester until graduation, if I had a real job I'd just reuse the head bolts and polish up the other cylinder but I have to error on the side of safety here. Thanks for all the advice, I've been taking pics of the entire process and will do a write-up on an in-bay head swap when I'm finished. Getting pretty quick at it now...