$200 What to do??
12-26-2012, 06:10 PM
#121
I didn't read everything so not sure if someone said it: Don't go with springs.
It will cost you far more than $200 to do them properly.
To do springs correctly, you are going to need to upgrade your struts, get an alignment and likely camber bolts or a kit to get the alignment correct.
The reason you will need those things is that the springs are shorter and stiffer than stock.
You will need an alignment after changing springs ($60-$80 unless you already have a lifetime somewhere). If you don't do that, you are asking for quick tire wear and the cost of purchasing new tires sooner.
More than likely, camber won't be able to be set properly because of the different geometry, you will need to buy camber bolts or a kit and have it installed ($60-$80) to get it aligned properly.
And, the stiffness of the springs needs to be compensated with better struts. So, you either need to buy new struts or the stiffer springs will kill your current struts. Especially if they have a bunch of miles on them. Are you currently driving on the original struts? If so, they will die a quick death.
In other words, your $200 mod will end up costing you lots more money.
Since you don't like the RSB, I would suggest a true cold air intake like the place racing version. You do have to cut a hole in the fender but really, it is no big deal. It will give you a power boost, sound a little better, and look very cool to your friends when you show them under the hood! You will also be able to say "my intake is better than yours" because it is a cold air intake. I'm just not sure that it is less than $200. Probably can find a used one.
It will cost you far more than $200 to do them properly.
To do springs correctly, you are going to need to upgrade your struts, get an alignment and likely camber bolts or a kit to get the alignment correct.
The reason you will need those things is that the springs are shorter and stiffer than stock.
You will need an alignment after changing springs ($60-$80 unless you already have a lifetime somewhere). If you don't do that, you are asking for quick tire wear and the cost of purchasing new tires sooner.
More than likely, camber won't be able to be set properly because of the different geometry, you will need to buy camber bolts or a kit and have it installed ($60-$80) to get it aligned properly.
And, the stiffness of the springs needs to be compensated with better struts. So, you either need to buy new struts or the stiffer springs will kill your current struts. Especially if they have a bunch of miles on them. Are you currently driving on the original struts? If so, they will die a quick death.
In other words, your $200 mod will end up costing you lots more money.
Since you don't like the RSB, I would suggest a true cold air intake like the place racing version. You do have to cut a hole in the fender but really, it is no big deal. It will give you a power boost, sound a little better, and look very cool to your friends when you show them under the hood! You will also be able to say "my intake is better than yours" because it is a cold air intake. I'm just not sure that it is less than $200. Probably can find a used one.
12-26-2012, 06:37 PM
#123
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
If I were you, I would most definitely start with the lowering springs. I would go with H&R's though. Check out shiftice's website and look at the spring comparisons that he makes before you make a decision.
You're gonna need the change for the alignment. Good luck!
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You're gonna need the change for the alignment. Good luck!
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12-26-2012, 09:06 PM
#125
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bronx, NY
Posts: 973
OK i read all 4 pages, im tired. now ive been in your shoes and ive learned over the last few years, modding is 2nd to maintenance. so if you've got the maintenance covered then you can mod. and my opinion is you should get a y pipe or a SRI.
but i think you'll be happy with an intake. i know i was. i also got a set of springs (eibach) for the time being i didnt change anything else and im feeling it now, i will have to change everything soon, so dont do that.
but i think you'll be happy with an intake. i know i was. i also got a set of springs (eibach) for the time being i didnt change anything else and im feeling it now, i will have to change everything soon, so dont do that.
12-26-2012, 10:29 PM
#126
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Murfreesboro TN
Posts: 261
oh to be 16 again...it's funny reading all the 'been there-done that' posts from the other guys that are thinking like me. But, you live and learn. And the journey is apart of the fun, no matter how much money is blown.
(1) I recommend used springs from the classifieds-H&R's or tien H-techs will work best with the factory struts (guaranteed to go out in a year if they are super old) ~$150 shipped and immediate appreciation from others for the looks
(2) Ghetto airbox mod-drill 1/4" holes in the face of the airbox to get the intake sound and achieve gains close to a basic short-ram. $Free. go for about 6 holes in the middle front ( also removed the front crankcase vent hose 'baffle' and replaced with a straight section of spectre autozone intake pipe/coupler)
(3) if you have buddies with mechanical aptitude towards working on old cars that break bolts, gut your precats for a big bump in power. Use spark plug anti-foulers on the rear o2's to trick the ecu into thinking the precats are still there. ~$10. a little growl added at idle.
Good luck with your endeavors with the Maxima. Its definitely a nice car to have starting out in the car game.
(1) I recommend used springs from the classifieds-H&R's or tien H-techs will work best with the factory struts (guaranteed to go out in a year if they are super old) ~$150 shipped and immediate appreciation from others for the looks
(2) Ghetto airbox mod-drill 1/4" holes in the face of the airbox to get the intake sound and achieve gains close to a basic short-ram. $Free. go for about 6 holes in the middle front ( also removed the front crankcase vent hose 'baffle' and replaced with a straight section of spectre autozone intake pipe/coupler)
(3) if you have buddies with mechanical aptitude towards working on old cars that break bolts, gut your precats for a big bump in power. Use spark plug anti-foulers on the rear o2's to trick the ecu into thinking the precats are still there. ~$10. a little growl added at idle.
Good luck with your endeavors with the Maxima. Its definitely a nice car to have starting out in the car game.
12-27-2012, 06:36 AM
#128
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
Slipped the clutch from about 5000 rpms.
It was a cold morning (by Florida standards) and that time was a one off for me. Pretty consistently ran 14.5s. One of my friends at the time ran a 14.34 stock in an almost identical car but his was definitely quicker than mine stock and he could drive better... lol.
12-27-2012, 07:34 AM
#129
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,799
Since you live in TX, I would just invest in some good 15-20% window tint.
12-27-2012, 08:40 AM
#130
Wow I thought this thread was going to the graveyard hahah. Well lets see, I already have tint, and the GAB. I was unaware that if you put the OEM muffler on the catback it will get rid of all the sound. Andd I think I have the original struts/shocks at 93k so springs might not be a good idea because I dont have 500 bucks for struts. I still havent made a decision, so this is all valid info. Thanks for keeping it going!
12-27-2012, 11:38 AM
#135
But CJ, the kid is 16 with $200 burning a hole in his pocket. Let him buy a toy, for crying out loud. Plenty of time for maintenance after parts break.
12-27-2012, 11:45 AM
#136
Assuming rootbeer is still running on original equipment tie-rod ends, ball-joints, end-links, wheel bearings, and all the various bushings throughout the car... then absolutely some preventative maintenance would make his car feel tight and reborn.
But CJ, the kid is 16 with $200 burning a hole in his pocket. Let him buy a toy, for crying out loud. Plenty of time for maintenance after parts break.
12-27-2012, 12:52 PM
#138
Assuming rootbeer is still running on original equipment tie-rod ends, ball-joints, end-links, wheel bearings, and all the various bushings throughout the car... then absolutely some preventative maintenance would make his car feel tight and reborn.
But CJ, the kid is 16 with $200 burning a hole in his pocket. Let him buy a toy, for crying out loud. Plenty of time for maintenance after parts break.
But CJ, the kid is 16 with $200 burning a hole in his pocket. Let him buy a toy, for crying out loud. Plenty of time for maintenance after parts break.
12-28-2012, 04:22 AM
#139
Took out the spare tire, that's it.
Slipped the clutch from about 5000 rpms.
It was a cold morning (by Florida standards) and that time was a one off for me. Pretty consistently ran 14.5s. One of my friends at the time ran a 14.34 stock in an almost identical car but his was definitely quicker than mine stock and he could drive better... lol.
Slipped the clutch from about 5000 rpms.
It was a cold morning (by Florida standards) and that time was a one off for me. Pretty consistently ran 14.5s. One of my friends at the time ran a 14.34 stock in an almost identical car but his was definitely quicker than mine stock and he could drive better... lol.
12-28-2012, 10:20 PM
#141
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Arcadia, CA
Posts: 206
Lowering springs for your budget! Helps the look and handling!
12-29-2012, 04:37 AM
#144
Did it cost you $200 to lower your car? Lowering springs+ camber kit+ labour+ alignment won't add up to $200. Anyone who say lower your car with just springs is giving you bad advice. Lowering on stock shocks/struts will have a back lash which is your shocks/struts will have you bouncing around in months, no camber will cost you new tires in about the same time, and no alignment will cost uneven wear and tear on your tires.
If you only have $200 to invest take the money and treat your girl out to dinner, that will benefit you more...
If you only have $200 to invest take the money and treat your girl out to dinner, that will benefit you more...
12-29-2012, 06:07 AM
#145
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
The key is slipping the clutch. Takes practice and wears out your clutch!
12-29-2012, 12:35 PM
#146
Did it cost you $200 to lower your car? Lowering springs+ camber kit+ labour+ alignment won't add up to $200. Anyone who say lower your car with just springs is giving you bad advice. Lowering on stock shocks/struts will have a back lash which is your shocks/struts will have you bouncing around in months, no camber will cost you new tires in about the same time, and no alignment will cost uneven wear and tear on your tires.
If you only have $200 to invest take the money and treat your girl out to dinner, that will benefit you more...
If you only have $200 to invest take the money and treat your girl out to dinner, that will benefit you more...
Labour, struts, front strut mounts. Yup. All good calls.
You can save money doing it yourself, but without either a good vice, or an air-impact, it's not really possible.
You can skip the front mounts, but you'll just be paying to pull it all apart again in short time.
Camber kit? No, not really needed.
All in all, there's really no reasonable way to do this even half-way properly for under $300-400.
And to lower your car for $400 is a smoking deal. To think you're going to do it for $200 is asinine. You may as well just heat a bloody spring up.
12-29-2012, 12:57 PM
#148
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Labour, struts, front strut mounts. Yup. All good calls.
You can save money doing it yourself, but without either a good vice, or an air-impact, it's not really possible.
You can skip the front mounts, but you'll just be paying to pull it all apart again in short time.
Camber kit? No, not really needed.
All in all, there's really no reasonable way to do this even half-way properly for under $300-400.
And to lower your car for $400 is a smoking deal. To think you're going to do it for $200 is asinine. You may as well just heat a bloody spring up.
You can save money doing it yourself, but without either a good vice, or an air-impact, it's not really possible.
You can skip the front mounts, but you'll just be paying to pull it all apart again in short time.
Camber kit? No, not really needed.
All in all, there's really no reasonable way to do this even half-way properly for under $300-400.
And to lower your car for $400 is a smoking deal. To think you're going to do it for $200 is asinine. You may as well just heat a bloody spring up.
12-29-2012, 02:39 PM
#150
So, here's an update. I was going through the car wash and it ripped my rear bumper off completely. Like totally off. Im getting a refund, a new bumper, and MORE MONEY. Best 3 dollars I ever spent...
12-29-2012, 02:46 PM
#151
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
Consider yourself lucky you're getting something out of it. Car washes usually have signs posted up that they are not responsible for damage.
12-29-2012, 02:56 PM
#152
^^This. I'm shocked they're reimbursing you. There's usually signs saying they are not responsible for any damages that may be caused during the wash cycle. You better tell everyone where that car was is so that they can get a new bumper or so.
Last edited by mrjasonlyrics; 12-29-2012 at 02:58 PM.
12-29-2012, 04:31 PM
#153
Hahah well even if it did have signs that's like putting a sign on my car saying "If I wreck into you and total your car its not my fault and there's nothing you can do about it." I mean seriously...
12-29-2012, 04:47 PM
#154
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
You're missing the point. Most places aren't responsible for your vehicle. Repair shops and dealerships are the same way. If someone hops the fence, busts out your window and steals your stereo, they aren't responsible for paying for it. You got lucky the place you took your car to get washed is reimbursing you for the damage.
12-29-2012, 05:25 PM
#156
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
12-29-2012, 05:30 PM
#157
I have had my foglight cracked from the water on the hot lense, antenna broken off, and my wiper arm ripped off and got nothing back. A touchless car wash have a no obligation policy and they are not liable for anything that happens when your car comes out on the other end. A car wash is a few bucks and if a part of your car is installed incorrectly or unsafe chances are it will break off. If they reimburse every car that comes out with a damage a car wash will never make money.
Consider yourself lucky that they did because they don't have too nor can you sue them or file some sought of complain. Bet you it won't work again
Consider yourself lucky that they did because they don't have too nor can you sue them or file some sought of complain. Bet you it won't work again
12-29-2012, 05:44 PM
#158
again..... Ebay catback $100 and cosmo pulley $81 shipped....... seems ive offered the best option for your $200... seeing as though you hardly mod and just about every thing outside of $200 buck right now seems out the budget, then ebay catback and pulley should be a nice upgrade