I've read as much as I could about the topic before coming here. I'll start with when the problem began. Roughly last monday night it was freezing out and the car took five or six attempts to get started. Tuesday up until Friday it ran fine. Checked everything, was running as good as ever.

Friday I go out to start it and nothing. It has spark, fuel pump is good, did all the normal checks. Still nothing. Took it to a (new) local mechanic. I don't know how good he is. He checked everything I checked. Disconnected the battery for an extended period of time. Even tried a procedure to reset my ECU. To no avail.

I can't recall the codes he told me but they were Pxx10 and Pxx12, stated they were security issues. It just so happens that both of my keys were reproductions and neither were originals yet I've been using them for over 45,000 miles with absolutely no issue.

The mechanic had someone come in, I didn't get much of the details, but I was to be charged $225 to reset the computer (only $100 if it doesn't work). Apparently the two of them worked on the car for four hours to no avail, luckily I wasn't charged cause they were sympathetic towards my cause but nothing accomplished.

I read that the keys are chipped and issues like this arise but only with the fourth generation maximas. Is it also an issue with the 5th ? And is there anything I can do that does not involve me taking it to the dealership that will bend me over ?

Anyone else ran into this issue ? Thanks !

 

If it is your security feature then the red light by the clock will be solid instead of blinking. It should onky cost 100-150 to have someone program it for you.

 

Yep, even a mobile locksmith will come out and reprogram it/keys for you if need be.

I would get the exact codes that came up and post em here. I ask this because your story sounds nothing like a NATS issue to me - case in point, your car was having a "hard start" condition but still successfully starting.

Is your car an automatic/manual? Year? Has it had motor mounts disconnected? Has it has the IACV bypassed?

Get those codes posted up here. In the mean time I would get an FSM downloaded and check the following (which you would know if you did search):

- fuel pump (I don't believe posters when they say "I checked it, its good" unless they follow the FSM and post the results)
- cam and crank sensors
- starter/battery

 

See what the codes are.

The Nissan DTC codes 1610, 1612, 1615 refers to NATS (nissan anti theft system) "chain of IMMU".

Description: Immobilizer control module/engine control module (ECM) communication - malfunction

Cause: Wiring, immobilizer control module, ECM

1 - Possible antenna failure.

2 - Possible key programming. Possible fix - cycle the key on for a second then off for 10 seconds. Do this until the security light goes out. If this doesn't work, you will have to have the key reprogrammed.

 

Similar item happened to me and my Pathfinder, it was weird. Damn smart keys.

 

I'm hoping it's the smart key. All the above was confirmed by said mechanic. I have spark. My fuel pump is operating fine. It was infact 1610 and 1612. I couldn't remember the first two numbers. Thanks for the fast responses.

Automatic. No about bypass and motor mounts.

Ignition is good. Battery is good (radio plays and alarm will sound)

01 maxima. 135k miles. No engine problems aside this one.

 

I am not sure but I thought the nats system cuts spark until it is deactivated (dont mind me if im wrong, I work with many immobilizers as a remote start installer). Very odd to have nat codes and your mechanic bring in a guy as a result and they guy couldnt figure it out. You may want to think about getting the dealer involved before your cost end up higher then if you started there to begin with. On a side note, does the car have or has ever had a remote starter?

 

Nissans do not cut the spark. When the car is immobilized, the fuel injectors are cut off. Same with the rpm limiter.

 

I have a remote starter. It didn't start with that either. And yeah spark isn't cut as mentioned above.

 

1)You mention you have a remote starter. I had an issue with a no start/NATS that was related to the remote starter. If I recall there was a module/relay located below my steering column that was part of the remote start install and functioned in relation to the NATS. Once that module was removed, I was able to start the car via the ignition key with no further issues, but obviously didn't have remote start capability anymore.
2)You have 2 keys, but you didn't mention if you've tried both your keys. I had a no start issue last Summer on my current Maxima after swapping my engine which turned out to be NATS. The key 1 I usually use would not start the car, but my second key functioned perfectly. (I had been experiencing an occasional stall and no start with key 1 prior to the swap). The odd thing is key 1 now functions again with no issues.