idk, but I didn't mess up the wire extension. I'm stupid, but not thaaaaat stupid

 

Only reason I ask is i've been dumb enough to do it. Things happen.

You changed the flywheel in the process right? looking at the code definitions maybe the signal wheel is slightly off on the flywheel?

 

It's on FWD alignment. I triple checked the important stuff when assembling everything.

 

screw it, take out the CEL bulb and drive it haha.

I'll think about it a little more and see if I have a moment. It's probably something stupid.

 

We need to keep that thread alive because its becoming more and more popular. thanks for sharing your knowledge.

 

I forgot to post. Darren sent me a pic of the correct trigger wheel alignment and I got it working no problem. This 2013 motor was NOT the same. I had to turn the wheels like half an inch!

I swapped in a TS F spec ecu from my other maxi. It pulls pretty hard now, but it must be really lean b/c it will break up sometimes, especially down low. I need to get the wideband and utec in. Then injectors and 4" intake

 

That's crazy, i'm glad you got it working.

I don't visit here much anymore, kinda lost interest in the maxima. Still gets driven every day. 41k on the swap so far, haven't done anything to it since the swap. I don't even check the oil between changes because it doesn't burn any.

Anyone want to buy a 5.7 gen? lol.

 

Don't say that. She might hear you!

Don't sell. If you do you'll probably join the ranks of guys with regret



My motor must have been virtually undriven. It billowed (OK, a little hyperbolic) gases out of the crank case for about 2k miles. It has broken in and nothing comes out now. I've been running Mobil 0w40.

 

Yeah yeah I know. It's hard to sell a car that has zero problems, just itching for something faster. It's a great daily though.

Why 40 weight oil!? I know the OE spec is 5w30 for my 08 altima motor, i'm running mobil 0w-30.

I wonder what was in the crankcase causing it to smoke.

 

I'm not sure how your ecu works, but the stock 5.5 ecu is in closed loop at every load point below I think like 3500rpm? Can't remember off the top of my head. Once I hit open loop WOT the car feels like a honda does rolling into vtec - an instant, noticeable increase in power.

I'd sure like to get it tuned.

 

VQs shear oil easily. Regular 30 weights become heavy 20s in short order. Also, I run the **** out of my motors.

I think the rings weren't broken in, so there was blowby.

Manuf recommendations usually aren't the best.

If I were to use 30 weight it would be German castrol. It's very high quality and on the heavy side (pretty similar to the Mobil 0w40 which actually goes down to 30 then back up).

I have lots of 40 weight laying around (probably 150 QTS) lol

 

So, whats the final measurements on the cam signal wheel alignment?

 

It's supposed to be what is stated (I measured 3.3mm, darren listed 3.5mm) but it didn't work for me. It wasn't worth the trouble of doing anything except getting it to work. I was not amused that I had turned it the same as the others and it wasn't even close.

This is the pic Darren sent me. As you can see, it's MUCH easier to just line it up based on the grinding marks.

 

Quick update - I've been chasing some performance issues and seem to have found a few things out in the process that might help others doing this swap.

I've hooked up an AEM wideband to see where i'm at, and have a logger that I could graph the ignition timing.

With no tuning on this motor, it's known to run a little lean. Now with that, it also has some knock retard causing things to run much less than smooth before it has a chance to build a "new" base fuel curve based on LTFT.

In the OE service manual I found that the computer overlays learned knock values and seems to integrate them into a "standard" running ignition timing curve based on that engine. For this swap this has caused some interesting driving dynamics. It seems to run perfectly fine, but pull power all over.

Now one of two things are happening - i'm getting actual preignition, or the sensor is sending off phantom values to the ECU. Either one is bad. So, since I have a wideband and some time I bypassed the knock sensor with a 520K ish ohm resistor.

WHOLLY **** - what a difference in power and smooth running. AFR's are higher than i'd like for now (14.2 @ WOT) but we will see how the LTFT will correct for it all. I should know here in about a week from driving it. LTFT will have an effect on WOT fuel with this ecu, so if it brings the AFR into the high 13's i'll be pleased.

No audible pre-ignition so far.

I'm not sure what happened to Darren's huge thread, it was so valuable. I keep getting messages from people and I rarely check in here, so I apologize guys!

55k on the swap thus far. Drive it every day.

 

I had to bypass it, too. The correct value is 560k, I think.

There may be some rom editing currently at work to fix this problem...

 

The 5.5 knock sensor needs a wiring update.

http://www.nisformance.com/product-p/ks55wire.htm

You can bypass the KS totally w resistor, or do the wiring update and itll be safer.

Either way 5.5 with no timing control (haltech etc) needs a update.


We continue to update and refine the swap making it better and better each time!

 

oh man, I need to check in around here once in a while. lol.

Good to know things are moving forward and getting better!

Any other epiphanies i'm missing out on?

 

Darren I just checked out your new site, looks good! It's got a lot of the necessary information for the swap too which is great. I'll just link people that keep messaging me to your website.

I want a sticker.

How many people have swapped now?

 

Yeah we are working to have all the info on the website.

We have FWD HR swapped just under 60 cars now, total out there is well over 100!

Some are completely stock cars autos that just needed a reliable engine. Then others are full bolt on and tuned.

We have came a long way in the past couple years, we have a shop, and a dynojet! Working on many projects to further push the FWD VQ platform! Far as i know we are the only shop that specializes in FWD VQ (which has its up's and downs lol) .


Email me with your address and ill send some stickers your way!

 

I need more info on this. The link doesn't work, and I don't see this product or info on Nisformance page. I see in other threads how bypassing the KS with a resistor makes the engine run WAY better, but isn't safe. So what do I need to do to the wiring to get the KS to work right with the 7thgen engine in a 5.5gen?

If the DIY info is somewhere and I'm not seeing it, please point me to it.