199.8 HP and 224.5 TQ aint to bad @4673 RPM. Does anyone know where our power band kicks in. This result is with my Megan Racing/KYB struts While I wait another month for a new TEIN strut.

 

Would hit a Real Dyno, if you have one in the Area...

 

This is from a couple years ago. All I had was a DIY'er intake...

 

I also have a automatic slush box and manual shifted. You have a 6 speed. I need to do another run not shifting. I am using a GAB mod maybe should clean the filter and try again. I like the torque number.

Dyno's are overrated and don't measure real world scenarios. You use a fan to simulate air flow rather then aerodynamics.

G Tech has become super accurate. 1/4 mile times are 1/10 of a second off from a G tech and dyno's are close. I can use it when I want, don't need to pay for a dyno so worth it, and don't need to waste time at drag strip. Also I see what works when I drive and what doesn't. Worth $199 if you ask me.

 

Hmm, what about a load bearing dyno with eddy current with respect to speed? How is one to tune with no parameters (RPM/AFR/IGN) available?

199$ would get you a lot more quantitative analysis, such as HP at any given RPM, (like the real equation states) quarter mile times that include 60' times, 1/8 time and MPH, 1000 ft ET/MPH, and quarter mile ET/MPH.

All personal preferences I suppose.

 

the fan is for cooling, aerodynamics have nothing to do with your engine's HP and TQ

and neither do springs/struts. It shows your peak hp and tq as being at the same RPM? That is legitimately impossible and the unit ought to know that

edit: unless you let off the gas at 4673 rpm

 

G-Tech is noce but it will never replace a real dyno or the track.....cmon.

 

Yeap first got to hit a real Dyno and compare, and same thing with the Track, then it will be more belivable, what times does it say for your 1/4 mile on the G-Tech...

 

a lot of these things are insanely accurate if you actually program them correctly. Some ways more-so than dyno's are.

It's all about how it's set up, not much different than most dynos, if it's not set up really well or calibrated, it means nothing more than his 'fake dyno' does.

Something to chew on. Dynos are just calculations anyways. Especially talking about HP

 

You missed the point.

Dyno's give you an RPM vs HP value. More useful for doing other things such as adjusting ECU parameters. Aside from that, the real deal is the track.

We're splitting hairs now but that's what this forum is about.

 

I agree with most that the Gtech is cool and I guess it would be interesting to see if it notices differences in hp when you put a new mod on the car. I used to have the previous version Gtech pro RR and it was fun to go out every now and then and see what kind of times I could get with it but I definitely would not trust it over a dyno. But it's not like we are talking about 9 second street warrior cars either so if your happy then that's all that matters. I think it's definitely a neat gadget.

 

I agree definitely cool. But 200$ would be better spent on an UpRev Cipher though.

 

Yep your right it is only as accurate as the settings you put in. Here are those settings for anyone that wants to play around with a gtech fanatic. I like the RR version better and im looking at upgrading the unit next.

2002 Nissan Maxima
Curb Weight: 3245 + driver (?) = ? lbs
Frontal Area:2.19 squared = 23.573 sq ft
Drag Coefficient: 0.31
Drive Train loss:21.6

What is crazy is how much drive train loss our slushomatic's have. That RPM is where I hit max power so looks like im needing some cam's. This is better then a dyno in the fact a dyno doesn't put into account forces such as aerodynamics.

Here is my original Celica dyno when it had a t3t4 e and a slipping clutch. Its great when you got time but I like doing on ramp pulls on way to work

 

There is a feature on the fanatic that shows a dyno graph which is pretty cool. Sorry not trying to be a salesperson. I heard dynolicious for the i phone is pretty sweet

 

Everyone always hates on dynos and it just shows you have never been to a decent shop. A dyno is not for seeing how much WHP you have, it is meant to gauge the level of improvement when new parts are added no matter the baseline numbers. All of these "they are crooked" statements make me feel sorry for the people who don't have a decent shop nearby because a dyno with a good operator is second to none when trying to get the most out of what you have. This is not to say street tuning cant accomplish the same thing though. A shop is just a far better choice IMO

I tend to agree

 

So your saying that was your Max power with these Mods Intake, Header, Exhaust, NWP Spacers, NWP VIAS Block, if so think it is not accurate or something messed up with the car even though Automagic cause have one also...

How much dollars do Dynos run in your area....

 

Not really a decent shop just half the speed shops around here either went out of business or there is a huge wait to get on a dyno. If I could rent a dyno for 8 hr's I would over having a tuner touch my car. ATS did a semi base tune on the celica already, I had to tweak the maps when I added a new fuel pump, upped the boost and had to mess with idle since it was way too high. I learned more stuff on my own tuning my Autronic and doing my own reading and research. I would actually put my laptop on my lap to see whats happining real time or would datalog to see where on the fuel map/timing map I am hitting. Dyno's don't account for aerodynamics. For example I have a ram air set up so when im am going a certain speed the cold air is going right through my intake at a faster velocity then a fan! Unless the fan can produce 100mph+ wind. A dyno will not account for that. So on the road driving will run leaner than on a dyno.

A tuner can not account for varying temperatures, cold starts, a good idle etc in one dyno tune, it is more like 3-4 hrs and I still say that is at best a base tune. I tuned my celica on cold days so when a warm day hits its running a little more rich, if you do the opposite you might have a really cold day and lean out your motor. I constantly check engine temps and wideband afr's so u can see right away what the differences are. Also im running e85 which has great anti detonation properties. Nowadays im trying to get better gas mileage while cruising and e85 without boost you can lean out a bit and add more timing. Actually in low rpms u can pump up the timing. Made my own knock can's but really my tune right now is pretty spot on. Really any low end timing is to get more of a jump to get into boost faster. I need a cage if I want to get any crazier with more boost.

My buddy's tuner helped him blow his motor. I think he assumed it was fine and didnt have a wideband. Big mistake. Anyone that wants to tune should always have a wideband! A EGT gauge is another good thing to have. Keeping engine coolant under 212 F is must.


This was one run. It was going uphill on a on ramp. Notice where it says uphill on it. I am sure when I get a flat stretch of road I will get a better result then that.

$120-150/hr if you can get the time to get on one. That was $400 or so since ATS installed the Autronic.

You don't tune with it. Its really only to hone driving skill's and get a close estimation. If I wanted to tune id put a wideband, egt gauges, and a racepak with autronic just like the celica. But its my daily driver. I am still questioning even turboing it since its a daily. I am leaning more towards a set of cam's. I know that opened my Celica up a lot. Probably best buck mods IMHO.

 

Most recent. I read the pdf instructions online. Apparently I wasn't mashing my gas enough and you need to let go of the gas for a good sec after the run. Torque is better. I need to swap my GAB intake mod for a 6 inch filter/velocity stack combo and remove my engine cover next.

 

Little strange about the RPM's being so close.