2003 Nissan Maxima SLE.

I'm not sure how to remove the rear rotor. I need to replace it. I have a Haynes manual, but the pictures and instructions don't look like mine. There are no holes between lug studs to screw in bolts to force rotor off. Tried a hammer to loosen it, but it's not budging. Do I need a puller?

 

Okay, this can be done real easy if you invest.. 7 min, what it took me, cuz I did it today,
Step by step

-Bang on the rotor with a hammer (heavy hammer preferred)
-4 point like the cross
-Then do the same from the back with the space that's open on the dust shield..
-hit and spin , 4 point like the cross
- then bang on the inner rotor 4 point like the cross,but be careful not to hit the 5 lugs that hold the RIM

-it will come out!!!!!

 

Thanks for the step by step. Since I'm done for the day, should I spray wd-40 around the lug studs, center hub, and the rear of the rotor overnight? Or maybe heat it tomorrow?

 

This video will give you a good idea for removing the rotors, its a 4th gen but its identical to 5th gens

youtube.com/ watch?v=z_N6ao0nql0

 

You can use the WD40. I think the center hub is the biggest problem area. Just make sure everything is clean after using the WD40.

 

Some wd40 or squeezing a circular line around the inside of the new rotor to prevent it from seizing to the hub works well.

For the future, if having to remove the rotor but are NOT replacing it, use the same technique above regarding the cross......however, use a rubber hammer instead. I have been using a cheap tent stake rubber hammer, think I paid a couple bucks for it at Walmart. That way, you are not likely to crack or damage the rotor. Of course, using the anti seize on the back of the rotor (where mates to hub) is best option so that next time you may not even have to use anything but your hands.

 

Yeah the wd 40 works , defently spray on the two 14 bolts and 17 bolts and use a vise grip to spin around the caliper , clockwise only

 

The rotor tapped right off this morning. Thanks for everyones advice.

Now I'm waiting for a new caliper for rear drivers side and have some questions. Since the rear end is supported on jack-stands, I went over to passenger side rear tire, grabbed it and tried to turn it back and forth. It was locked up, wouldn't move. Don't know if I should have but I removed the tire, managed to tap the caliper off the brake pads, and turned the piston in enough to clear the pads. I removed the brake reservoir cap first, but the piston was very hard to turn. Does this have anything to do with anti-lock brakes? Don't know if it has them and don't know exactly how to tell if it does. If it does, do I need a shop to bleed the brakes, or can I do it myself? Thanks for any advice on this.

 

Did some reading in the Haynes manual, and I think this car has anti-lock brakes. It says to bleed the brakes, I need to disconnect all four electrical connectors from the ABS actuator. I'm guessing the actuator is just below the master cylinder, but I don't see the electrical connectors that they refer to. I wonder if pulling the ABS pump fuse would do the same thing.

Hope some-one here can help. Hoping to do this tomorrow. Still confused about the passenger side wheel being locked up the way it was.

 

twist lock rotors bud, use a rotor compression tool like I have or you can use a pair of needle nose and a C-clamp. As far as bleeding the brakes you bleed brakes with your ignition off so no power to ABS. DON"T BLEED BRAKES YOURSELVES unless you know what you are doing. Air in the system and a boilover of fluid could cause hydraulic failure. It's not worth it if you don't know what you're doing. But when i do it,
1. connect vinyl tube to air bleeder valve
2. fully depress brake pedal several times
3. with brake pedal depressed, open air bleeder valve to release air
4. close air bleeder valve
5. release brake pedal slowly
6. repeat steps 2 through 5 until clear brake fluid comes out of air bleeder valve.

bleeding order:
RR --> LF --> LR --> RF

** DON'T LET MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY **

 

I just bled my brakes today after replacing my rear left caliper. Do yourself a favor and get a $30 VACUUM BLEEDER from autozone or harbor freight. It allows you to bleed yourself, and it's really not that hard or time consuming if you grasp the concept. Bottom line, make sure no air is in the system! Also, press the brakes a couple of times before taking off to drive.

 

I've bled brakes before, even anti-lock brakes, using a helper to pump the brakes. Just never bled anti-lock brakes after opening up the system like I have. Thought there may be more to it, but I guess not. Thanks for the tips.

 

Got caliper installed, brakes bled, everything back together. Everything went well. Just want to thank everyone who gave advice and those who followed the thread. Hope I can be some help to someone in the future.

Thanks again.

 

Did you check the e-brake?

 

Good work

 

No, I did not check the e-brake. What's the proper procedure.

Thanks kingofny1997. Was going to follow your procedure the next morning and the first smack, it slid right off.

 

put anti seize lube on back of the rotor hubs so next time they wont seize on the axle hub ,,works for me every time,,make sure the rust is wire brushed off before putting on the lube