Possible Axle replacement?
#1
Possible Axle replacement?
Been getting a clunking/clicking sound when turning right, was told this is most likely a axle issue. noise is coming from driver side when turning, no noise when turning left. Does this sound like a axle issue?
If it is the axle I have a few question about the replacement, car is a 03 max AT.
Will transmission fluid leak when axle is pulled on the driver side, I have search and some say yes and other no. I would like to get the correct answer from some1 who has either changed it or know for sure.
Second will a wheel alignment be needed after the change?
Also will I need any of parts beside the axle?
will be getting it from advance anyone have experience with these?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...one_15870386-p
If it is the axle I have a few question about the replacement, car is a 03 max AT.
Will transmission fluid leak when axle is pulled on the driver side, I have search and some say yes and other no. I would like to get the correct answer from some1 who has either changed it or know for sure.
Second will a wheel alignment be needed after the change?
Also will I need any of parts beside the axle?
will be getting it from advance anyone have experience with these?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...one_15870386-p
#2
I just replaced my pass. side axle due to clunking when turning . If i made a U turn, it would clunk, crunch and squeak, the driver side is actually easier than the pass. side to replace, and if they have a lifetime warranty on the axles i would replace it . My napa pass. axle only lasted 3 years and since it only had a one year warranty , i went with one from AZ because it has a lifetime warranty on it .
Alignment isn't needed since you won't be adjusting or removing the outer tie rod lock nut,BUT if you never had one done, this is a good excuse to get one , to reset the toe back to factory specs
Alignment isn't needed since you won't be adjusting or removing the outer tie rod lock nut,BUT if you never had one done, this is a good excuse to get one , to reset the toe back to factory specs
#3
Aside from that it's a fairly straight forward job.
#5
I just replaced my pass. side axle due to clunking when turning . If i made a U turn, it would clunk, crunch and squeak, the driver side is actually easier than the pass. side to replace, and if they have a lifetime warranty on the axles i would replace it . My napa pass. axle only lasted 3 years and since it only had a one year warranty , i went with one from AZ because it has a lifetime warranty on it .
Alignment isn't needed since you won't be adjusting or removing the outer tie rod lock nut,BUT if you never had one done, this is a good excuse to get one , to reset the toe back to factory specs
Alignment isn't needed since you won't be adjusting or removing the outer tie rod lock nut,BUT if you never had one done, this is a good excuse to get one , to reset the toe back to factory specs
Did tranny fluid leak during replacement?
Haha! I have bought one of these (well, the MT equivalent) and had to send it back twice before I asked for my money back. All three were **** out of the box. I'd check those joints before you get it home. Just rotate it a couple times. On all three that I tried the outer joints were extremely stiff and had a popping feel when rotated. Ended up with a reman from O'reilly (also lifetime warranty). Haven't had any problems since.
Aside from that it's a fairly straight forward job.
Aside from that it's a fairly straight forward job.
Thanks for sugeestion I will check it out.
#8
Yes. And it wont stop leaking until you put the new axle in. I laid the new axle across my chest when I pulled the old one out. Makes it a little quicker to put in. Also, I recommend putting the tranny in neutral before putting the new axle in. This way you can rotate it so it slides in nice and easy. If it doesn't slide in, turn the axle and try again.
Also, the FSM says you 'have' to remove the passenger side axle before you put in the driver side axle. I didn't, nothing's broke yet.
Also, the FSM says you 'have' to remove the passenger side axle before you put in the driver side axle. I didn't, nothing's broke yet.
#9
It only says this because there is no place to pry the axle out on the AT. They expect you to pound it through from the passenger side. I had more problems getting the passenger side out with that damn bearing support seized.
#10
I bought a NEW axle from AutoZone. I didn't like the way the outer joint felt so I took it back. They couldn't get me another for several days but Advance was happy to overnight one. Got the NEW axle from Advance and it felt the same. I thought maybe I was wrong and it was supposed to feel like scraping forks across a cheese grater. I put this one on the car and pop pop pop around every corner. I went to Advance and bought a second one (I didn't want to take the one off of the car yet because Red Line MT-85 is expensive ****). When it came in it had the exact same feel. I just told them to send it back and got my money back. Went across the street to O'reilly's and ordered a REMAN axle. Worked great, slapped it in and haven't had a problem since.
#11
I replaced both axles & seals on my 97 auto last Oct and only had a few drips. I just replaced the left axle on my 2000 auto Monday and didn't have any oil until I popped the oil seal out. Then I had oil dribbling out until I got the new seal in place.
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