So my clutch on my recently purchased 5.5 gen seems to be catching ever so slightly even when the clutch pedal is at the floor. Guy I bought it from replaced it, but it looks like a cheapo one, not sure if it isn't displacing enough fluid to move the slave cylinder all the way, thus making the clutch not fully disengage...

So I looked on courtesyNissan and they wanted ~$100 for an OEM Nabco built master cylinder. I found a "Nabco" Master and Slave for ~$90 on carpartsdiscount.com and ordered them... Do you think these are the real deal? I really just want this issue to be over, and if it still isn't disengaging my next plan of action is to purchase a new Clutch Assembly in hopes that my Clutch Plate is messed up.

Figured if I put a new Master, Slave, and SS clutch line in to replace the jungle gym of the OEM clutch line it would help.

Do you think this $50 Nabco master will do the job? It was still more expensive than all the other Master Cylinders. But my buddy told me it is probably a knock of "NABCO" that probably won't meet the exact specifications.



Link to courtesyNissan
http://www.courtesyparts.com/30610-c...957_2024_2026&

Link to carpartsdiscount ... https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut...tml?3593=75646

 

That master cylinder will probably work just fine but sounds like your having the same problem my wife's car had.

For it i needed to adjust the clutch free play and now it so smooth let me see if i can find that section of how to do it again in the factory manual.

 

The aftermarket master/slave cylinders usually work just fine. I used Beck/Arnley when replacing mine and haven't had a lick of problem. Chances are your problem is with the free play adjustment (as a33nismo has already mentioned) or you have air in the clutch line. It is a well known and often lamented fact that it's damn near impossible to bleed the disaster of clutch line that Nissan has installed in the Max. My suggestion would be to replace it with a single piece stainless steel line. I did this when replacing the cylinders. Took me 5 minutes to bleed it out and haven't had any problems whatsoever.

 

Alright cool. I actually tried adjusting the free play but now its engaging way up top and i'm a little worried that it is not relieving the throwout bearing of the load. No play at all.. But then again sometimes it feels like the engagement point move around.

And yea I tries bleeding it like 4 times. Probably ended up putting more air into the system if anything

But its good to know that it probably isn't in the clutch assembly.
Hopefully the new parts and the addition of the one piece SS line will help.

 

You might try to just adjust the clutch distance first before replacing that. Check the FSM out for how to do that.

Might want to bleed the clutch to see if there is air in the line as well....

I would do these things before replacing the master cylinder.

 

Bled it, and adjusted it, still hard to get into gear, and still seems likt its trying to engage or contact ever-so-slightly with pedal at the floor.

Had a friend "Assist" the slave by prying it out a little more when my foot was on the floor. Probably moved the slave another 1/4" and it was wayyyy easier to move the shifter into every gear.

Also, a buddy with a 2k2 max said my pedal feels wayy lighter than his does

 

I think you made the right choice man, they are relatively easy parts to install as well.

 

OP, any updates?

 

Just replied to your thread actually.

 

Fixed the issue.

Finished putting flywheel in. Looks like that fixed the problem. Also, my timing was at 8 degrees idle before i replaced everything... Now its back to 17 degrees, so my flywheel must have been causing that too?