When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I must of fudged up my 3m trans and pass mounts because my motor rocks like hell. I ended up buying energy suspensions 80a high performance liquid urethane and doing them over. I ordered black and it came in red :/
broke the tab on the quick release in the fuel pump container.
It still snaps in place though and now I have a new Filter in. What to do about the broken tab on the return line quick conntect?
Can I cut the whole return line out and use universal rubber tube or will it burn up from heat?
Just realized I can replace the quick connect tab. They are able to remove replaceable. They were so old they turned brown from years of fuel fumes.
Last edited by maximatech12; Nov 9, 2016 at 11:56 AM.
Yeah, it's kinda on the list. Too lazy to research if I should go spring/strut or coilover to solve it. Also too lazy to convince the wife it's worth the money. I'll probably do what I usually do and tell her it cost half what it actually did
Yeah, it's kinda on the list. Too lazy to research if I should go spring/strut or coilover to solve it. Also too lazy to convince the wife it's worth the money. I'll probably do what I usually do and tell her it cost half what it actually did
Finally finished cattman headers and ypipe install along with ES motor mounts. Not really a "what did you do today" but more like "what did you do over the last six weeks" lol.....could only work a few hours here & there on weekends, plus it was my first time so I was going SO slow......tough to find time between work, family, etc. And I pretty much had to do the job 3 times trying to get the ypipe not to hit the crossmember. But it's done, yay!
Oil lamp has been flickering lately, along with a ticking and puttering and some trouble codes (0011, 0021, 0031, 0051). Did some in depth research, put on my tinfoil hat and started drawing wildly uninformed connections between these culprit systems (A/F sensors and intake valves) and came up with this conspiracy theory that I have an oil pressure problem fouling everything up. So I researched causes of oil pressure problems and came to the conclusion that I need an oil pressure switch!
"Eureka! I've solved it," I bellowed at my cat. I jacked the beast up, got on my back and went in blind with the ten dollar replacement part in one hand and a 27mm socket in the other... I smoothly installed the thing with no hiccups. Never had such an easy time...
I know. I was so pleased with how things were going that I wasn't even that upset about the outcome. Gonna try a bottle of some engine treatment next and see if its just a sludge problem. Here's hoping.
I know. I was so pleased with how things were going that I wasn't even that upset about the outcome. Gonna try a bottle of some engine treatment next and see if its just a sludge problem. Here's hoping.
I'd be way too paranoid and have to pull the lower oil pan. There have been crazy things found in there...like paper towels. There's three possibilities for the oil light flashing. The sender is bad/clogged, pick up is blocked or oil pump is bad. It's highly unlikely to be the pump. Checking the pick up and running some detergent in the oil would be my actions. You replaced it, so that's not so good news. Pick up must be checked.
Given the codes and light you are absolutely dangerously low on oil pressure. I wouldn't drive it at all. Check for glitter in the oil/pan when you drain it.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Nov 27, 2016 at 05:27 PM.
I'd be way too paranoid and have to pull the lower oil pan. There have been crazy things found in there...like paper towels. There's three possibilities for the oil light flashing. The sender is bad/clogged, pick up is blocked or oil pump is bad. It's highly unlikely to be the pump. Checking the pick up and running some detergent in the oil would be my actions. You replaced it, so that's not so good news. Pick up must be checked.
Given the codes and light you are absolutely dangerously low on oil pressure. I wouldn't drive it at all. Check for glitter in the oil/pan when you drain it.
I dumped in a bottle of Rislone Engine Treatment. Smooth as a top. The changes were immediate. The oil light flickered once or twice more and stopped, the noises are gone. I'm kinda dumbfounded by how easy that was.
This problem has popped up in the past, always about a month before the next scheduled oil change: flickering light, same trouble codes, distinct puttering/ticking sound... usually goes away with an oil change but I decided to play around with it this time and try to verify what exactly is happening. I'm gonna open up the pan and take a look at it. Its gotta be some kind of blockage or fouling.
I dumped in a bottle of Rislone Engine Treatment. Smooth as a top. The changes were immediate. The oil light flickered once or twice more and stopped, the noises are gone. I'm kinda dumbfounded by how easy that was.
This problem has popped up in the past, always about a month before the next scheduled oil change: flickering light, same trouble codes, distinct puttering/ticking sound... usually goes away with an oil change but I decided to play around with it this time and try to verify what exactly is happening. I'm gonna open up the pan and take a look at it. Its gotta be some kind of blockage or fouling.
Replaced the lower control arms and sway bar end links yesterday. Ended up cutting the end links out after stripping them and having to torch out the control arm mount. Good times.
Got it all back together and took it around the block only to discover that I must have ****ed up my driver CV while working on it. Super.
In other news, shipped out my ecu to Murphys_law today to be tuned.
If I get the poly motor mounts will that stop my tranny and side mount from breaking?
Because there are my second ebay set all around and they keep breaking.
Will this happen again with poly motor mounts? I know it's going to be harsh but whatever.
If I get the poly motor mounts will that stop my tranny and side mount from breaking?
Because there are my second ebay set all around and they keep breaking.
Will this happen again with poly motor mounts? I know it's going to be harsh but whatever.
Just dont go with ebay one... i got the original one in it, passed something like 14 winters and summers and the still in mint condition..
Cleaned her inside and out today. Also swapped the fuel lever sensor from my daughters car to mine to see if that was the issue for the fuel needle not reading right. Well that wasn't it so l swapped the instrument clusters. Yup that did it. So apparently my cluster is bad.
There is a guy on ebay that does instrument cluster repair for the 5th gen maxima. Anyone used this guy before?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/2002-2003-2004-NISSAN-MAXIMA-instrument-Cluster-Repair-Speedometer-Repair-/171979577659?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
Did an oil change with M1 HM 5W30 & M1 filter, changed air filter (FRAM) and finally re-aimed the headlights. No more staring at the ground 6 ft in front of me!
