Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

I was going to replace my bad wheel bearing today, but the lca ball joint was givin me problems. I put a open end wrench on it and it completely stripped the nut out so I ended up having to use a vice grips. Once I got the nut unscrewed far enough, i had to pop the ball joint loose from the knuckle so I could unscrew it the rest of the way. But after I popped it loose, the bolt for the ball joint would just spin so I can't loosen the nut any more! What's up with this??

Mikel81

It's probably stripped and spinning. I just did a control arm yesterday. A lot of people say they have to remove the axle to get a socket on it. I got lucky with pb blaster, heat, and a flare nut wrench. You are probably going to have to cut the bolt if you cant get it off with force. First, try wedging a pry bar under the bolt to put pressure against it while you turn it.

BlackThornDemon

Just pop the control arm down, get a pair of vice grips under the nut then loosen.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

Yea I tried using a pry bar and the bolt still spun. But I don't understand why it was loosening up perfectly fine until I freed up the joint from the knuckle.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

How do I pop the controller arm down if I can't get the ball joint unbolted?

imported_Nismo_max

iTrader: (5)

If i were you i just use a dremel to cut the bolt off.. then continue doing your wheal bearing fix..and then get new ball joints..cause if you did fine a way to get the nut out..chances are when you put the nut back onto the bolt it'll spin on you..making it even harder for you to tighten it.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Bro you gonna need a new balljoint just face it!

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

Ok I can cut it off and get a new ball joint. But I read that it needs to be pressed into the Lca? Can somebody explain to me how to replace it?

imported_Nismo_max

iTrader: (5)

go to an autozone store and rent the ball joint press..pretty easy diy..

BlackThornDemon

Because you took off all the pressure on it. The ball joint is literally a ball in a socket. When you get your new ball join you'll be able to see it.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

I think I might just bring the car in. cuz i feel like i'm gunna spend more on tools than I would If I brought it in. Do u guys think I would be able to drive it like 1 mile on the loose ball joint?

BlackThornDemon

I drove it 32 miles on a bad ball joint. Don't go very fast. The lca will shift and pull your car to one direction pretty bad. Then it will reset. Doable, but be careful.

rbaksi

iTrader: (3)

Don't bother replacing just the ball joint. Easier to replace the whole LCA. They are only 60 shipped on eBay. I just did one and am about to do another

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

Yea but the only problem with ordering stuff is that I need my car on Monday. And I would guess that the ball joint on the eBay control arm won't last long
Oh yea and I just took another look at my car and noticed the radiator is leaking and it looks like the gear box is a little wet with a drop of gear oil on it, and It also has had a little oil leak for a while. I love this car but its turning out to be a Money pit and a pain

BlackThornDemon

You are now a certified Nissan owner. Enjoy.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

Seems like right at 120k miles u have to replace a lot of stuff on these cars. I bought the car for $5300 last september, and I put more than $600 into it for maintenance, and $550 in performance and cosmetic stuff. But I love the 2nd gear pulls and the thought that It can take most 4 door family cars on the road. Whoops I meant to say on the track haha

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I don't know how you think you are going to save money by taking the car to a shop and having them do it. Renting tools is cheap - like nothing.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

Cuz the closest place to rent tools is like a half hour away, I bought a $20 socket, need to buy a torque wrench, then the ball joint puller, I might need to get something to cut the ball joint bolt off if a hand saw wont work. it would already be $40 for me to bring the hub in and get the old bearing pressed out and my new one in.
but on second thought, maybe it wouldn't be that bad since I already have it apart idk

kingofny1997

iTrader: (2)

Take off the 2 lower strut bolts
push out the axle
Put socket on top of ball joint bolt, loosen
bang on side of ball joint
It will just pop out
Take off control arm

But in your case just cut the bolt, don't pay someone to do this, it too easy

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Are you a half hour away from a rental store or an auto parts store? Just about every auto parts store rents tools. You put a deposit on the tool, which is usually the retail price of the tool and when you return it, you get the deposit back. They rent pretty much every tool, including sockets.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

I went to both the auto parts stores in town napa and carquest said they didn't rent parts, but I might just go to autozone today and rent the ball joint press.

BlackThornDemon

You have a harbor freight around? They sell a lot of mechanic tools. I bought a ball joint press on sale for $60.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I just went and rented the press at oreilley. and I got a new tie rod end and a new ball joint.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

I got the whole hub/knuckle off. but with the press, smallest receiving tube on the press is too small and the medium one is too big and I can't figure it out!

requiem4488

This is what you need:

Matches
Lighter Fluid
Cliff

Douse the outside and inside of the vehicle with copious amounts of lighter fluid. Then with the windows down, toss a lit match into the car through said open windows. While the car starts to catch, have a friend help you push it off the nearest cliff.

IMHO, do it right. New control arm with already press fit ball joints in place. Rock Auto has them cheap, or even hit a junkyard if you need the car that bad during the few days it ships. As for the other maintenance, get it done now. Preventative maintenance now will save you headaches and money later on. I have a 2000 with 160k on the clock running like it's brand new because of this philosophy.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

Ok but what's the point of replacing the whole arm for $130, if I can just put my new ball joint in for $30. I feel like getting a whole new lca would be doing it wrong and wasting money. And I have the ball joint press, but I just need to figure out how I can get one of the receiving tubes to fit.

BlackThornDemon

What press did you get?

The receiving cup in my kit is 2 1/2" x 2" (length x inner diameter).

Mikel81

Rock auto has control arms for as low as 49 (I ended up getting the moog for 79) Autozone wanted 40 for just the balljoint. It really saved a big headache as you can see, it took me under an hour to change one side.

DjHackStyle

Usually theres no correct size in that set to properly push the ball joint out. So i usually put the arm in a vice grip and knock the ball joint out with a sledge hammer. Remember to remove the snap ring!! It'll never move with the snap ring in place.

There is correct sizes to press the ball joint in, but if u assemble it right the opening sometimes is not long enough. In that case use the flat part to drive the back of the ball joint in at least half way until u are able fit both driving and receiving cups. - sounds conplicated but go for it it'll make sense. U wont be able to use a regular wrench to turn the driving screw , hold it on a vice grip and use a breaker bar, be sure to grease up the ball joint outer ring to slide on better.

Keep an eye on the ball joint while its going in make sure its straight, if u see its going crooked just stop and hammer in that corner until its straight again and proceed.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

It is an evertough press. But I just got the old ball joint out cuz my dad found me a pipe that fit perfectly around the bottom of the joint! It pushed out pretty easy actually. Now I think I'm on track to be able to drive to work tomorrow afternoon!
Thanks for all the great advice everybody!!

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

I just got done bolting everything together, went for a drive and it still makes the same wow wow wow wow wow noise. When I turn left the noise gets louder, and when I turn right the noise is almost not even there! What's up with this?!

DjHackStyle

Well u said ur problem was the wheel bearing, then u had to change the ball joint. Did u replace the wheel bearing too? I dunno what ur problem might be but i assumed u did u research to pinpoint the bad part.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

Yep, got the new wheel bearing pressed in today. But the noise sounds basically the same. Mabey a tad bit quiter.

DjHackStyle

Well then that wasnt the problem. U need to do more diagnostic and less buying parts. Sometimes a small diagnostic fee from a shop helps out. My friend had a noise on his honda and replaced both outter tie rods and right ball joint and the noise was still there, we went to a shop and paid $25 diagnostic fee and they determined it was the upper control arm ball joint which was replaced 1 year before so we never considered it. After replacing that was the problem. Live and learn dont rule anything out just because you think it should be good.

Maxx6spd

iTrader: (2)

Yea atleast the passenger side it tight now