So basically im trying to figure out if I need a new clutch or is it something else. The shifter is pretty much letting me shift alright. No huge difference. However when im shifting it seems like its a little sluggish then sputters? into right gear i guess? Like ill be driving and i sense a little sputter/juke. Sorry if im bad at describing this. I'll shift into a gear and it will be sluggish then like picks up as it usually should....but even after that sometimes when im driving it will like jolt/sputter not to the point where its moving me and im like falling out my seat but yeah its just like a quick feeling...like you can feel it...if i had to describe that feeling...its like it slows down and picks right back up basically at the same time(for lack of better words). I've learned a lot on this forum but this is new territory for me(clutch issues). If not what could it be? I'm getting some engine stuff done and he will have the flywheel exposed so if i need a clutch I want to get it done while he has it open.

 

Lots going on here...

When you say it is sluggish, do the revs increase independent from the car accelerating?

One way to check a clutch is to apply the parking brake select the highest gear and let out the clutch. The engine should stall immediately. If it does, you may have something else going on.

 

The revs doesnt increase....here is the thing though....i just got a new engine put it and it drives strong though....its kinda doing the same thing that it was doing before I got the engine put it so i feel really confident in saying its not an engine related issue.when i say sluggish i dont mean the car drives sluggish in general i just mean it does a quick jerk. my rpm gauge isnt working tho but my mechanic is realigning the flywheel because he set it wrong. he set it on retard because he forgot there is a difference between my manual flywheel and the automatic flywheel from the donor car. But yeah sometimes when I shift i dont automatically feel that power increase. its like halft a second of kinda sluggish and then i get it. I also felt like my cat might be clogged( gonna get a high flow cat) but im not sure if that might be causing it. But yeah considering i kinda had the issue before i got this new(61k) engine which in generals pulls real nice and strong. I think its something other than that. Id like to state that the car isnt fully driving bad...its just that you can feel it being a little jerky/sputter while driving at times like it wants to loose power but that feeling is like 1/2 a sec long then back to regular power.

 

I just watch a "EricTheCarGuy" video on youtube about diagnosing a slipping clutch and like he said when your clutch first starts to slip he said one thing is you notice that when you shift gear you might notice that you dont get that immediate power to the wheels. He also said that it will first start to slip into higher gears. So yeah its more so like that when i shift. Like not that immediate power sometimes... Unfortunately I my tachometer(rpm gauge) isnt working right now so I couldnt base it off rpm's and give that info.

 

kinda seems like an evap leak. just from what i have seen and whats your explaing.

 

evap....thats like air/fuel related right? the codes i have right now are crankshaft position sensor/02 sensor/ VIAS Open something something i think P1800 i think.

 

Put the car in 3rd gear and try to start off, give it decent throttle (more than normal).

If it stalls out easily it passes that test.
If it just bogs down and starts moving the clutch is slipping and needs replacement.

Do this same test in 4th gear to verify.

You will notice a clutch slipping normally on the highway when pulling a hill in 5th. The RPM will climb but you will not pick up speed. That is a sure-shot way to tell the clutch is toast.

 

Something told me to check into the VIAS code.....so from what ive read, the VIAS can cause power issues and sputtering? Sputtering during drive that is.

 

Step 1: deal with your codes - fix everything and dont assume things
Step 2: Make sure your car is properlly running, IE fluids are changed and fresh.
Step 3: Start to diagnose your cars problems.

First off, if you have a mechanic swapping over your engine etc, he should be able to tell you if your clutch is slipping in 5 seconds of testing.

Second, if you are having problems with hesitation or lack of power for a second, but once the power hits and your car takes off, your clutch is probably fine. If when the power hit and the revs spiked and the car didnt launch off, then you might have a clutch issue. Like everybody else said, if you are able to sit in the car, yank the parking brake on good, get in third gear and release the clutch like you are normally taking off. If it stalls, you are PROBABLY good. If the engine keeps going, you are hooped.

GL

 

i totaly forgotttt. make sure they sanded the surfaces down. the grounding threw the mating surfaces... it happened to me i had to take it allllllllll the way back out to sand it all down and all said and done it wored fine.

2. its throwing them codes maybe you jumped time. justing this out there. you do have another motor in it. possiblity

 

So its raining retardedly hard right now and I kinda had to check quick. I tested it wrong, i drove 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear...at 3rd gear i let the car come to a stop and around 5mph it stalled out in 3rd gear...I dont know if that is still a way of testing it but um yeah does that mean its probably not the clutch? Tomorrow ill do what he said and try to start the car in 3rd.

 

 

As he said the best way to check ur clutch is to aply tge emergency brake then select thehighest gear and let the clutch go
Car must stule right away

 

I've never heard of putting the brake on

 

UPDATE:
So i've tried both brake up and down. With the brake down it moved very little but stalled almost a sec after moving. With brake up It stalled in 3rd as well. I guess that means its not the clutch. HOWEVER, me doing some research on my break today. I looked up more VIAS threads, then somehow I started reading one that mentioned the maf. So basically his maf was going out and was faulty triggering the VIAS Code. So I said to myself...if I had these symptoms before I got my new engine and had a VIAS code, It's weird that I have the SAME code on this new engine(w/ 61k...old had 215k). I started thinking with the old exhaust issue and having a CAI, the filter seems a little beat up...Maybe my MAF might be going out. I mean my engine isn't revving higher when power loss..it's more of a power/restricted feeling when the feeling happens. So im thinking my next thing is to replace MAF with 2000 5th gen MAF(Been reading up on MAF SWAP threads). and also replacing CAI with a JWT Pop Charger from Cattman or something instead of just replacing the air filter on my CAI. So am I on the right track?

 

Yes you are... See my above post for the 3 step program for sucess.

It sounds like your clutch is fine. Deal with ALL of your codes and I will bet your car will run a whole lot better.

If you are running a CAI depending on your filter you run the risk of having oils etc getting on your maf and then dirt sticking to your maf etc. You can try cleaning it first, or just replace. DO NOT USE EBAY MAF's. Shell out the $$$ and buy OEM.

 

^good advice

 

Are you using the same VIAS setup on this newer engine? If ur still using ur old upper intake manifold with the same VIAS setup on it of coarse its gonna throw the same code.

 

I believe the VIAS is new

 

Update: So i replaced the MAF with an 2000-2001 MAF and did the IAT swap from the 02. Plus bought a JWT Pop Charger w/R2C filter from Cattman. Still same issues... Car still has lack of power, little sputter/surging/hesitation on acceleration still. No difference in revving and stuff, just still like its holding back or something. sometimes fine but now mostly driving like this. Would the VIAS cause these symptoms? I have been searching for days on VIAS symptoms but everyone just talks about fixing it. Anyone know what the symptoms would be? Oh and would a clogged catalytic converter cause these symptoms? I temporarily bought a front precat until I get headers and seems to be running fine. However the old one was TOAST and also caused me getting a new engine. Im thinking maybe the main catalytic converter might be clogged too, but would it cause these symptoms? It feels like the car is being restricted or something, I don't think the car could rev high in gear if I wanted to.

 

Is your car still throwing codes???

I doubt your cat is causing you these problems. VIAS is probably a good place to start. But still there are a hand full of other things I could think of off the top of my head. Fuel filter, pump or fuel related issues. Coil packs, even plugs.

 

Didn't get to scan it...I did the maf and Pop charger last night and i work the next few days. But still researching right now on my break what are the symptoms of VIAS going bad. Going through all the threads on VIAS as we speak.

 

Save yourself a lot of time of diagnostics and scan your car. It will shorten your search for the solution x100000. Trust me!

 

You can even do the home test. Just search for how you do it, and you can get the codes even without a scanner.

 

I take that back, apperently you cant on 5th gen... OOOPS!!!

 

You can however buy one for cheap from ebay!

 

Lol back to the search button until I can take it to the shop on Monday. I just want to try to get the part ahead of time. Whatever it is.

 

To me it sounds like a bad injector or bad coil. Its basically a misfire.
Mine felt exactly like I imagine a bad clutch would. Jerky, intermittent.

Get a scanner on the thing and check codes.

Once it was a coil.
Last time I put in Seafoam in when mine starts doing that, it stops doing it immediately and hasn't done it in 6 months. I prob. have a bad injector.

BTW I Seafoam once a year, using the 1/3 can in brake booster 1/3 in gas and 1/3 in with the oil. Then I change the oil within a few days.

350+km and runs perfectly.

 

make post like Yoda you do.

 

UPDATE
Bought a Soliport ELM327 bluetooh obdII. I know all the codes when he first replaced engine though,but I know i have an o2 sensor code. Can't seem to find symptoms for VIAS. PLus the Crankshaft Position Sensor(which we believed is caused by the flywheel misaligned which he will fix)Um.....So I'm reasearching. I'm going to replace my battery terminals because they are loose. Plus I'm going to go ahead and order a new o2 sensor for that front precat that got fried. Mechanic said when he replaced the engine the old precat and o2 was like charcoal lol. Anyone know a reputable sight for inexpensive o2 sensors? Um, instead of getting a high flow cat(since they are all too long on ebay) I think ill post in the Classified section for WTB a Cat Converter. It's been raining so much UUUGGHHH!! Can't do much #AtlantaWeather

I might just buy the NWP BOP anyway for the VIAS because they aren't super expensive. And people say you only FEEL a slight loss of on the low end. But I won't be doing any racing ANYTIME soon and I usually shift at 2.5 anyway.

 

DAMNIT I KEEP HAVING TO EDIT BECAUSE I TYPE SO FAST! DAMN YOU PROOF READING!!!!!

 

You mentioned sputtering and power loss then it would go away and you would regain power. I had a similar issue with my max (93 5speed) where I encountered these symptoms as a result of an exhaust leak. Installing new warpspeed y-pipe and drilling out five broken manifold studs cured the problem. You may have a different problem or set of problems but since you replaced the engine it might be good to see if the exhaust needs work too.

 

Update:
So I just came from autozone from buying the battery terminals. Im assuming I was right about the MAF causing the VIAS code because I only have that Crankshaft code and the P0057 o2 sensor code Bank 2 sensor 2. Im assuming it has to be the o2 because when i first got my car back i felt like it was a brand new car and I only had VIAS code and Crankshaft code. Of course everything was disconnected during engine swap. Now....so after a little bit of driving I noticed this problem again. Like I had before swap. Then I took the car back and I had an o2 sensor code. Like I said in the previous post. He said my old precat was literally TOASTED and he said the o2 was basically black too but re-used the old o2...so...here I am...Im going to still replace my main cat and that o2.

Btw im writing in like journal style just incase someone else comes across a similar issue as me and be able follow along to possibly help them.