As we all know, our Maxi has a problem with our parking brakes. I do have some experince of locked parking brakes in last winter.

Now I found everytime after I drove it, the two rear brake discs are unevenly heaten. Driver's side is very hot, passenager's side is relatively cool.

I wonder how I can fix it? Thanks.

 

determine if the parking brake cable is the culprit. if so, fix it, if not, fix or replace the caliper which is sticking on its own.

 

When I did a rear brake job late last year, one caliper was damn near impossible to compress. After a lot of cursing and elbow grease, it went in. When I took it for a drive after the brake job, the rotor on that caliper had a blue ring develop. That caliper was sticking so bad it destroyed the new rotor immediately. Moral of the story: change out the caliper before it destroys your pads and rotor.

 

OK, some updates.

I fully check my Maxi today. When there is no braking pressure applied, both rear wheels spinning freely, seems no signs of a seized piston. When brake applied, both rotor can not spin.

Visually checked brake hoses when my wife was stepping down brake pedal, no signs of leakage. Hoses are just the way they should be.

Brake pads comparison, driver's side(the hot pad side) IS thinner a little bit.

Molybdenum caliper grease applied, some cleaning jobs done.

No apparent changes, driver's side rear pad is still hotter than passenger's side. Only this time I doubt maybe driver's side is normal but passenger's side didn't clamp enough? I don't know.


ps. my rear calipers are aftermarket products which I purchased just 2 years ago. they only last that long ? any reliable calipers you recommend? Thank you.

 

Are both brake pads on the hot side worn thin or is one thin and the other thick? If you have the thick/thin combination, you have the pins that allow the caliper to center on the rotor are sticking and need to be lubricated or replaced.

Otherwise, the ABS actuator may be air-locked if you bled the brakes and did not follow the proper order specified in the service manual. Just bleed the brakes in the sequence the service manual provides.

 

updates: I bled right rear brake, some air bubbles found. after bleeding, nothing changed. maybe I should check pistons ? or do a total 4 brakes bleeding?

 

UPdates:

now I'm pretty much sure that rear passenger side has no or very slim brake power( in another word, driver's side seems at normal condition).

what could be the reason? does ABS actuator have any contribution to it?

I bled passenger side caliper, no air bubble signs. Piston is almost impossible to be pushed back. I tried to use " the Cube " to turn it back(still, with a lot of effort), the rubber anti-dust sleeve get bent. Fortunately I turned only 45 degrees, so I turned it back to its original (of course, counter-clock wise, I know it's not right, but I mean, 45 degree only, right?). After all these, nothing changed. helps are appreciated.

 

On the manual, it says, before bleeding, you should " disconnect the four electrical connectors from the ABS actuator ", where are these connectors? are they the four metal tube lines connected to the actuator module?

 

Don't disconnect the abs lines. Just pull the abs fuse and bleed normally. You don't want to touch your abs at all. Unless of course, your abs needs to be bled. Those four 'metal tube lines' are your abs 'brake lines.' If you disconnect those you'll have to bleed the entire abs system.

What is the condition of your rotors/calipers?

 

Thank you for your help. The rotor and calipers are just 2 years old. But, aftermarket products. I do have a problem pushing the piston back in(I used C clamp ), I don't know. I ordered a back wind kits and will try again later.

 

Another thing that bothers me: I connected a transparent tubing at the bleeding screw. Ok, when brake pedal is pushed down, fluid comes out, right. But when gently releasing brake pedal, I can see that fluid slightly goes back, for about 3 inches long in the tube. I was told that shouldn't happen.

 

Thats normal. Releasing the pedal should draw fluid/air back in unless you close the bleeder screw before releasing the pedal.

 

Its ok for that to happen as long as you don't suck in air too.