FreshRichie

Hey guys, bought a 2001 auto GLE a few days ago and I've been loving the upgrade from my '97. However the car doesn't seem to be driving as well as it should.

On first startup when the engine isn't warm, the car starts fine, sounds a bit like a diesel for about 5 seconds, and then idles normally... But it hardly revs at first. I can literally push the pedal halfway down and it will only rev to like 1k RPM as if something is clogged up.. It chokes as if it's about to stall, but it never does. Then after the engine runs for a minute or two it revs up perfectly fine. When driving, it lacks power. Pressing the pedal hard causes the RPMs to go up but the speed hardly increases. Other than the poor acceleration, it drives very well. Smooth engine idle when warm (700 rpm), no engine knocking. There are no CELs. Here's a video I made with me revving the engine, it sounds like a whistling sound right before every rev.. maybe a vacuum leak?


And yeah yeah I know I should be holding the clip not the cable.. lol. I already swapped in a new air filter, no difference. Then I cleaned the MAF, caused the idle rpm to go from around 900-1000 to the normal 700, so that's good. But it just won't accelerate like I know a VQ is supposed to! Should I have the ECU scanned even though there's no CEL or would that be pointless? Any ideas?


Edit: Just had it scanned, no codes

FreshRichie

Ok today I had the code history checked and it gave me a P1211 code, TCS CU Performance Function. The car does need a rear right ABS sensor and the ABS, TCS and SLIP lights are all on. Sometimes I can hear a little wobbling-type sound when I brake at a high speed on the right side where the sensor is needed. Could the bad ABS sensor be causing the lack of acceleration?

TravisCadello

No Abs sensor won't cause this at all guy owned mine b4 cut one off lol i jus took out abs bulb i hate abs brakes.


as for your problem sounds like a bad MAF or possibly clogged injectors run some chevron techron injector cleaner with chevron 93octane fuel if it don't clear id replace maf.

Could also be bad tps sensor it reacts slowly mine revs immediately maybe ur runnin regular fuel? run premium always that's what mine does with reg unleaded.
how many miles?

FreshRichie

I ran 91 in it and it seemed to run a bit smoother. Went from like 60% to 75%. Still lacking power though. Like I said I cleaned the MAF so i'm a little hesitant to buy a whole new MAF unless I get a code that points to that... already used fuel injector cleaner too when I put in 91 octane in it for the first time after I bought it. 142k miles.

FreshRichie

Hey guys.. the problem still persists... there was a hole in my resonator so I just straight-piped it, acceleration is a little better. But the car still doesn't accelerate as quick as it should, and it still almost stalls on a cold start. It turns on, RPMs drop to like 400, almost stalls, and then it jumps back up. When I try to accelerate on a cold start the car hardly moves as if it's choking.

Should I get a new MAF and risk wasting $100 even though there's no MAF code?

2damax

Depending on your mileage the MAF may not be great so I would replace it. If that doesn't solve your problem then I would clean/replace throttle body.

FreshRichie

Can I get some more opinions guys?

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

If it were me and my car I'd check in the following order: do all ECU relearn procedures, bad spark plugs/coil packs, clogged fuel injectors (while I'm in there, more of a pain on the 3.5), clogged fuel filter, have battery and alternator tested, check/clean/replace MAF, replace TPS.

I always try to start with the cheapest possible cause of an issue and work my way up. To me, this issue seems to be either electrical or fuel delivery related. Whether it's a component of or the ECU throwing either off do to a bad sensor.

I am no expert, this is just how I personally would troubleshoot if it were my car.