As the title says, in the next few weeks when I have time, parts and courage I will be replacing my valve covers on my 2003 Maxima SE AT that has about 130,000 miles on it. I have noticed a pretty significant oil leak along most of the back (facing the firewall) of my rear valve cover.

I've read as many threads as I could find on the subject but I just wanted to ask for any last tips or advice on what I may expect doing this job and ways to avoid any problems.

I will be following the "greg's" how to in removing the IM that I found posted here. It seems pretty straight forward, just take my time. And I noticed that the valve covers need to be torqued down in IN.-lbs. not FT. - lbs.

I have ordered the '04 valve covers and gaskets and I have ordered a new plenum gasket

1) What do I use to clean both surfaces before installing the new gaskets?

2) Since I have a leak going down pretty much the whole back side of the rear cover would it be ok to add a thin amount of Permatex Ultra-Grey along with the gasket to help prevent this in the future? If I did, do I put it on top of the gasket or on the part of the engine (sorry don't know what it's called)

3) What do I do if I notice oil on the coils/plugs? How do I remove any oil in there if there is?

4) Is there any easy way to remove the little round clips that hold the electrical wires in place or just yank 'em? I was hoping not the break them.

5) I've replaced the plugs at 100,000 miles. I wish I knew about the ORG and the problems with the rear valve covers before I had that done. Should I be doing any other job while I have the UIM off?

6) I noticed in "greg's" how to remove the UIM he said some coolant might leak out when I remove a certain hose. Could I use a hose clamp to prevent any coolant from leaking?

I know I had a few more questions but can't think of them right now. So if anyone can share their experiences hopefully this job will go smoothly.

Sorry for writing a novel, I'm a relative noob at this and just a little apprehensive. I want to do it right the first time.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

I've also converted "greg's how to" into a pdf, it's in landscape so it has bigger pics and is great for looking at it on an ipad while doing the work. I've also assembled a PDF of the valve cover and IM torque specs and such from the FSM into one document. if any one is interested in those PDF's just PM me and I can email it to you.

 

6) Those would be the two coolant hoses that run through the throttle body. Don't bother pinching them. Only a little bit of coolant will leak out so just grab some towels and you'll be fine.

3) Oil in the plug tubes comes from leaking spark plug tube seals, and those are built into the valve cover. Since you bought a new valve cover, you'll be fine. You can use a rag to get the oil out of the tube, just be careful not to drop anything into the cylinder if you take the spark plug out.

5) If you have the cash, it would be a great time to do the NWP spacers, but besides that there isn't really anything else. Just take a look at the spark plugs and make sure they're ok.

4) The backside of those wire clips have tabs that you have to squeeze together, and then the clip slides out. If you have the patience you can try and undo them, or you can break them and use new zip ties after. Up to you.

2) The FSM recommends putting a bead of gasket sealant around both corners on one side (the front side where the oil filler cap/pcv valve are) of the valve cover where the gasket has to dip downward. Some people like to go a little bit further and put a bead all the way around, but that's up to you. Make sure you use a razor blade to clean any old sealant/gunk off of the mating surface.

 

I just got done having both VC gaskets replaced at the shop. So I got new plugs, 2 new VC gaskets, and 1 new coil = $ 600. Maybe could have gotten done a little cheaper, not sure. The coil part cost was $ 100. Was this a fair price? Also they did it in one day.

 

Should have done it yourself... It isn't that bad

I used rtv black and sealed the entire rubber thingy with it (both sides)... I was paranoid about leaks.

Make sure to clean clean clean clean clean clean clean with brake fluid or something the old stuff (on the rear valve cover), cover those three holes with something, get a new gasket for the upper intake manifold.

Might be a good idea to replace spark plugs while you are at it.

I used this guide http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how...placement.html...

If you have issues with the silver clip things holding the tubes, use pliers and shake the clip backwards

 

Thanks 02pearlmax and george!

I just had the spark plugs replaced at 105,000 miles, I currently have close to 130,000 miles on it, do you still think i should replace the spark plugs? Maybe i should get some just in case and can return them if i don't use them. my car runs pretty smoothly right now, i would hate to mess anything up.

I think I would like to add a little extra RTV around the gasket just in case, especially the rear gasket. I was worried I would ruin something if i put it all around.

I don't know what NWP spacers are and what they would do for me but i will research them and see if that's something i want to do.

thanks again and if you can think of anything else, let me know.

 

I just got doing my second max valve covers last week as well. Its not hard, just take your time with everything. Allow yourself extra just in case. No rushing it because your fixing a leak and dont want it to leak again. The front valve cover is cake. Depending on what plugs you put in before and if you want to spend the extra on putting in new plugs as a piece of mind. Like the other poster said, make sure to clean the mating surfaces really well especially the corners that need the rtv. I first used a wet cloth to remove any big debris then a cleaner. I used a old blade but took my time with everything. I used rtv on the corners as well as a thin film on the gasket itself when bolting it down. Dont over torque them since the cover is plastic. The rear is the same except for the intake manifold. I didnt even take the intake off the car. Once it was unbolted, I just pushed it to the side . If you do find oil in the rear and many people will tell you cylinder 5 is known for leaks. Just try to soak up as much oil with a rag then take out the plug and let the excess drain into the engine. The excess oil will be burned off upon starting. Wipe down the everything.

 

@OP - no point doing spacers if you don't need / want more performance

Spark plugs are probably just fine!

 

thanks guys!

maxx0831 how did you get your valve covers off without taking off the IM? did you remove certain hoses and left others on?

which plugs are the best to get for our car or should i just go to nissan and get OEM? rockauto usually has good prices on plugs.

yeah, i don't think i need the spacers right now. my car is pretty much stock and i don't really need the extra performance. would love to do all i can to get better MPG though, but i'm sure we're all like that.

this is great info. i certainly want to put a little film of RTV around the whole valve cover especially on the rear so i won't have to worry about this again (knock on wood). and i will take my time and take lots of pics before so i remember which hose goes where.

 

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there's one hiding behind the engine cover

 

Sorry if I was hard to understand. I did take the intake off to get to the rear valve cover but what i meant to say was you dont have to disconnect the coolant hoses or unplug the throttlebody. What I just did was unbolted the 5 bolts in front of the intake and the 2 in the back. Lifted with everything still attached and positioned it at the side where the intake is.As far as plugs, I went with NGK iridiums. I love them.

 

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That is safe? Maybe I'm paranoid but I removed all my hoses and made sure it didn't touch anything on the car.

 

Ive done it twice on 2 maximas and have had no problems. But its just personal preference. I just didnt want to have any issues with the throttlebody or idle relearn. Hope it goes well for you.