Brake Master Cylinder Ran Dry
07-18-2013, 08:15 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 18
Brake Master Cylinder Ran Dry
I was replacing calipers and being a noob, I didn't know I wasn't supposed to let the master cylinder run dry.
I guess now I have to do the master cylinder bleeding instructions in the master cylinder installation section in the FSM.
Is there an easier method of getting air out of master cylinder?
I guess now I have to do the master cylinder bleeding instructions in the master cylinder installation section in the FSM.
Is there an easier method of getting air out of master cylinder?
07-18-2013, 08:54 AM
#2
Not really. You have to bleed the system. What method you use to bleed it will determine if it is a pita or not.
A power bleeder and a gallon of brake fluid is the easiest, but the average Saturday mechanic doesn't have one. You can take the car to a shop (assuming it has enough brakes to drive) and have them do it or you will have to do the old, tried and true "pump the brake pedal" thing. Get the bleeder tool that attaches to the wheel cylinder and have plenty of brake fluid handy.
A power bleeder and a gallon of brake fluid is the easiest, but the average Saturday mechanic doesn't have one. You can take the car to a shop (assuming it has enough brakes to drive) and have them do it or you will have to do the old, tried and true "pump the brake pedal" thing. Get the bleeder tool that attaches to the wheel cylinder and have plenty of brake fluid handy.
07-18-2013, 10:02 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 18
Not really. You have to bleed the system. What method you use to bleed it will determine if it is a pita or not.
A power bleeder and a gallon of brake fluid is the easiest, but the average Saturday mechanic doesn't have one. You can take the car to a shop (assuming it has enough brakes to drive) and have them do it or you will have to do the old, tried and true "pump the brake pedal" thing. Get the bleeder tool that attaches to the wheel cylinder and have plenty of brake fluid handy.
A power bleeder and a gallon of brake fluid is the easiest, but the average Saturday mechanic doesn't have one. You can take the car to a shop (assuming it has enough brakes to drive) and have them do it or you will have to do the old, tried and true "pump the brake pedal" thing. Get the bleeder tool that attaches to the wheel cylinder and have plenty of brake fluid handy.
I emptied fluid from both rear caliper hoses, so the car probably can't be driven at all.
I have this but I'm assuming it's not gonna fly in this situation.
Should I buy a Motive power bleeder?
Is it ok to leave the M/C dry? Should I go pour some brake fluid in there until I can resolve this?
07-18-2013, 10:31 AM
#4
you will likely need to bench bleed the MC, or at least follow the same procedure without removing the MC which is the procedure in the FSM that involves disconnecting the lines and plugging/covering the ports.
dont see why leaving it would be a problem, unless youre thinking about leaving it for weeks, that might cause the film of fluid to dry up and give you issues. Even though the fluid all ran out there will still be some film on the inside of the cylinder and around the seals that will hang around for a little while. Of course, there wouldnt be any harm in adding some
dont see why leaving it would be a problem, unless youre thinking about leaving it for weeks, that might cause the film of fluid to dry up and give you issues. Even though the fluid all ran out there will still be some film on the inside of the cylinder and around the seals that will hang around for a little while. Of course, there wouldnt be any harm in adding some
07-18-2013, 02:39 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 18
you will likely need to bench bleed the MC, or at least follow the same procedure without removing the MC which is the procedure in the FSM that involves disconnecting the lines and plugging/covering the ports.
dont see why leaving it would be a problem, unless youre thinking about leaving it for weeks, that might cause the film of fluid to dry up and give you issues. Even though the fluid all ran out there will still be some film on the inside of the cylinder and around the seals that will hang around for a little while. Of course, there wouldnt be any harm in adding some
dont see why leaving it would be a problem, unless youre thinking about leaving it for weeks, that might cause the film of fluid to dry up and give you issues. Even though the fluid all ran out there will still be some film on the inside of the cylinder and around the seals that will hang around for a little while. Of course, there wouldnt be any harm in adding some
Anybody know which Motive power bleeder work with 2000 Maxima?
Last edited by jptmaxima; 07-18-2013 at 02:45 PM.
07-18-2013, 04:00 PM
#6
The strainer will pry out. It snaps into a recess at the bottom but comes out easy enough. You have you work it out, prying on one side then the opposite side. But be careful as the strainer has mesh material on the sides as well as the bottom.
I can't answer the question about which bleeder, never used one.
I can't answer the question about which bleeder, never used one.
07-19-2013, 06:01 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 18
I found this about another car. Does this sound like it'll work for our car?
Seems a lot easier than FSM method.
"Our cars have a dual crossed hydraulic system. This means that the master cylinder has two pistons and two separate fluid circuits. The primary circuit feeds brake fluid to the Left Front and the Right Rear simultaneously. The secondary piston circuit feeds the Let Front and the Right Rear simultaneously. Both pistons move together and the primary piston uses fluid to move the secondary piston. When you let the master cylinder run dry, you lost this hydro-mechanical separation.
When bleeding the brakes, you get all 4 corners solid and free of air, then you must "Center the Pistons" in the master cylinder bore. You do this by bleeding the rears on the same pump of the pedal.
Have your pumping partner ready and pump the system up (4 to 5 pumps of the pedal) and hold. Start with the RR caliper and open the bleeder. The pedal will fall about half way and stop. Then without moving their foot on the brake pedal, go to the other side and open the bleeder. The pedal will then fall to the carpet. Repeat this a couple of times and reverse the procedure (start with the LR and on the same pump, bleed the RR). This purges both circuits of the master cylinder and allows the pistons to be positioned in the right place and supply normal braking pressure to all 4 wheels evenly"
Seems a lot easier than FSM method.
"Our cars have a dual crossed hydraulic system. This means that the master cylinder has two pistons and two separate fluid circuits. The primary circuit feeds brake fluid to the Left Front and the Right Rear simultaneously. The secondary piston circuit feeds the Let Front and the Right Rear simultaneously. Both pistons move together and the primary piston uses fluid to move the secondary piston. When you let the master cylinder run dry, you lost this hydro-mechanical separation.
When bleeding the brakes, you get all 4 corners solid and free of air, then you must "Center the Pistons" in the master cylinder bore. You do this by bleeding the rears on the same pump of the pedal.
Have your pumping partner ready and pump the system up (4 to 5 pumps of the pedal) and hold. Start with the RR caliper and open the bleeder. The pedal will fall about half way and stop. Then without moving their foot on the brake pedal, go to the other side and open the bleeder. The pedal will then fall to the carpet. Repeat this a couple of times and reverse the procedure (start with the LR and on the same pump, bleed the RR). This purges both circuits of the master cylinder and allows the pistons to be positioned in the right place and supply normal braking pressure to all 4 wheels evenly"
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