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Clutch pressure

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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 08:15 PM
  #1  
MaxinO2's Avatar
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Clutch pressure

So I've been having issues with my clutch losing quite a bit of petal and then slowly builds up pressure back to normal.. This happens a few times a month and has been ongoing for almost a year.

I decided to pay a shop $50 to bleed the line to hopefully get air bubbles out of the line.. Two weeks later it happens again. Did they not properly bleed the line or is my master cylinder going bad. The shop spend maybe 40 mins on the bleeding.

Any suggestions?

...The Clutch and Flywheel are brand new.

Last edited by MaxinO2; Sep 15, 2013 at 08:29 PM.
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 12:47 AM
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Could be the slave, maybe your clutch line is weak and bulging at a soft spot
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 02:12 AM
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Do you still have the OEM clutch lines? If it's similar to the 4th gen, the bleeding process is to bleed the slave first, thereby pushing any air upwards to the master cylinder, then to bleed the master cylinder, finally pushing the air up and out of the system. If that sequence wasn't followed, there may still be in air in the system.
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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Yeah I still have OEM clutch line. Should I look into replacing it? Also should I see if the shop will re-bleed it at no cost since maybe they didn't do it correctly.
Old Sep 17, 2013 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MaxinO2
Yeah I still have OEM clutch line. Should I look into replacing it? Also should I see if the shop will re-bleed it at no cost since maybe they didn't do it correctly.
If they didn't do it correctly the shop should be obligated to do it again. Even though many on the org hate the OEM lines and always go for the stainless steel replacements, I would keep OEM. Apparently the OEM clutch lines were made long and convoluted to promote heat dissipation. That makes a lot of sense.
Old Sep 17, 2013 | 01:48 PM
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That's a ridiculous statement. The stainless lines are the same length as the OEM lines, The only difference is stainless doesn't bulge like a rubber balloon.
Old Sep 17, 2013 | 01:56 PM
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I prefer to bleed the slave while its off the transmission so that I can have it well above the master and also to make sure there are no bends in the line that would allow air to camp out at a high point in the line. This has worked very well for me a number of times, while following the FSM procedure has worked well for me precisely 0 times

to answer your question though, it could be any of those (poor bleeding, bad master, bad slave, bad line) but it sounds to me like you either have a failing slave or worn out line. I would start with replacing the slave but if I had an OEM line id just replace the line at the same time
Old Sep 17, 2013 | 09:59 PM
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Ok, so how much of a pain in the *** is it to install SS lines and where should I order them from? I will just install myself and have someone else bleed since I don't wanna mess with it. ha
Old Sep 18, 2013 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxinO2
Ok, so how much of a pain in the *** is it to install SS lines and where should I order them from? I will just install myself and have someone else bleed since I don't wanna mess with it. ha
If u can i stall the SS clutch line then bleeding is 5 minutes cause its very simple to bleed this line.
Old Sep 18, 2013 | 07:20 PM
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Do the SS line from Master to slave or not?
Old Sep 18, 2013 | 08:14 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by MaxinO2
Do the SS line from Master to slave or not?
I bought the line and im going to install it soon just because my line has air in it and i bled it one time and it was the same (clutch grab point changes from low to high). Im just gonna unhook the oem lines and leave them there for future reference incase somebody wants to rehook them up or something.
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