I have this irritating habit of forgetting to close the rear windows and I didn't like having to put the key in the ignition and turn it on in order to operate the power windows.

So I decided to undo years of governmental nanny state-ism and have the windows work the way I want them to, not the way some bureaucrat wants them to.

Turns out this is an easy mod to do. You don't have to take anything apart if you don't want to. I did in order to get better photos.

In stock form, Nissan uses a relay to supply the power to the window motors. This relay is energized when the ignition switch is in the "ON" position. So all you need to do is to remove the relay and add a jumper in the relay socket.

The Power Window Relay is located on the right side of the in-dash fuse panel. Remove the access cover to the fuses and you will see the blue Power Window relay on the right side. Look on the lower corner of the relay and you see the locking tab that you must push in on in order to remove the relay.



With the lower dash panel removed (you don't need to do this), you can see that there is all kinds of room. FYI- the black thing to the right of the relay is the turn signal/hazard flasher unit.



Power Window relay removed.



You need to make a jumper wire. You want to use at least 14 gauge wire because this wire will carry a higher amount of amperage that most other wires in the car. 12 gauge wire is what Nissan has in the wire harness and if you intend to operate all the windows simultaneously, then you better use 12 gauge wire for this jumper. And if you do use 12 gauge wire, make sure the spade connectors can accept that size wire.

I cut a piece of wire to be 1 1/4 inch long. I stripped 3/16 of an inch of insulation off of each end and soldered a 1/4 inch wide male spade lug connector onto each end.



Bend the jumper into a U shape and plug into the lower half of the relay socket.

 

That is useful info. You can operate all windows without the key if you do this mod, right?

 

what about sunroof

 

If this keeps constant power to the switches won't it be a draw on the battery?

 

Great write up! I was hoping to come into this finding some awesome Dennis solution for my hella-slow rolling windows. seems like as soon as I try to roll up more than one if over-loads the master switch and they all slow down.

Anyways, way OT from this thread!! Cool mod, does it only get power when the door is open, or is this constant power even when the car is locked and off?

 

I wish there was a way to AUTO the rear windows like the fronts. That's next OK Dennis.... Lol

 

Awesome. Thanks Dennis.

I'm with the others... damn slow rolling up windows period. Worse if more than one. Maybe the bigger guage and elimin the relay will change that.

Mine have always been slow. I think it is the tint. I've cleaned and added grounds...so I don't think it is that.

Sunroof would be great too... must be a relay there too, that probably also would make the light work without the key.

As for the auto up, I would guess there is a switch difference. So you would need three more auto up switches. But not sure.

 

That is correct. That is what I wanted to accomplish.

Good question. I rarely use my sunroof so I never thought of trying it. Turns out that this mod changes nothing in regards to the sunroof. Electrically speaking, the sunroof is totally separate from the windows.

No. At least nothing additional to any draw already there designed by Nissan. There already is a wire with constant 12 volts going to the master switch before this mod.

This mod provides power all the time, with doors open or closed.

If your windows are slow now, they will be even slower with the engine not running because you will have only 12 volts pushing the current instead of 14 volts. When I got this car, one of my rear windows was extremely slow. When I took the door panel off to investigate, it moved like the others. It turned out that the weatherstrip piece attached to the door panel pressed so hard against the glass that it slowed down the window. I beat, pounded and pried on everything and was able to reduce the pressure of that weatherstrip. No scientific principles, just good old brute strength and ignorance and a lot of luck that I didn't break anything.

I don't know exactly how the auto function works. It's built into the switch. I have myself believing that the auto switch works on current load. When the window comes to a stop, the motor will draw more current as if it were a short circuit. The switch senses the high current and disconnects the power. That's my guess and I'm sticking to it.

The gauge of the wire that you use for the jumper won't change anything. You are restricted by the wire size used in the harness and how powerful the window motor isn't. If I understand the wiring diagram, when you use the master switch, it sends power to whichever window you are operating. But the other 3 doors also have a power feed to them which is used only when the switch in that door panel is pressed.

Is your window tint a plastic film? If so, the co-efficient of friction in the tint film has added too much friction against the door panel weather strip for the window motor to overcome. After my experience, what I would suggest that both you and Tuner do is to remove the door panel and operate the window. If the window is still slow, then all this stuff about the weatherstrip is just hot air.

I've had to replace 2 window motors in my 4th gen in the last 9 months or so. To remove the regulator, you have to remove the window glass itself. On re-installing the glass, I found out (at least in the rear door that I did last) that the glass does not go perfectly straight up and down. You have to position the glass towards the track that slopes. If it rides against the other track, it will bind.

I may take a look at the sunroof. I know that the motor for the sunroof is an electrical monstrosity. It is not only a motor, it has a microprocessor built in with it. It is almost like having the window master switch built into it.

To expand on the auto up feature that I answered to CauzinDrama, the window motor in the driver's door is more than just pure motor. It has a limit switch and an encoder built into the motor and sends signals to the master switch. So to have auto up on the other windows would require different motors that don't exist and different switches that also don't exist.

 

interesting insight into the slow roll up, however it doesn't explain why it's slower the more windows I roll up, that seems like a current issue to me. anyways I don't care a lot lol.

as for the auto windows, you actually need the auto motors in the doors, they have an internal limit switch, you will also need the switch. without both they will not operate automatically

 

I tried to answer the slow multiple window roll up when I talked about wire size. Your post tells me I didn't do too well. I agree that it is a current issue, but that would require re-wiring the complete window system. I don't know if the Infinity uses the same design, but in the Maxima, the master window switch may be the bottle neck.

 

I think that it is, and I'm sure your explain was fine, my read sucks lol I skimmed through as I was getting ready to leave