Hello everyone, a few months ago I bought my first Maxima and first manual ever. I did learn the basics of driving a clutch on an old Volvo 850. I do miss that car actually, cool sound from the 5 cylinder but at 168 HP it wasn't exactly the speediest thing out there (At least not to someone who for many years has driven a supercharged 3800 motor with 240 HP). That said, my technique is still not great so I know that may not be helping the synchro problem.

On mine I notice that 3rd gear is the hardest to go into when under acceleration. I've also had 5th gear give me some trouble. I don't accelerate hard often, but when I do it really feels bad that I have to wait on the jump from 2nd to 3rd or else I get that grind. I asked my father who's more technical about cars (in understanding, but doesn't do any major car work) and he seemed to make it sound like I could just have the synchronizers replaced for the gears that are grinding. From what I'm seeing though, it sounds like basically rebuilding the transmission. My Maxima is an '03 with 145k miles, and I know the previous owner did great regular and preventative maintenance.

So the thing is, how much would rebuilding the transmission cost on average? I really love this car, but I don't want to get in over my head fixing every last thing and end up spending a fortune. I have the nasty rust around the back wheel-wells (It's not noticeable from a distance, but up close you can see it without needing to look inside the wheel-well itself). In a perfect world, I'd like to get the rust repaired (Can't do any bodywork myself) and fix the transmission so there is no grinding in any of the gears (also I'd maybe look into the heated seats - is it just mine or do the heated seats kind of take a long time to warm up and don't get super hot? All of the GM vehicles I've driven have excellent heated seats, but even my father's 6th gen Maxima has similar mediocre performing heated seats). I know I may not be an ace about driving a stick, but for kicks I drove a '13 Soul + with a clutch at a dealer and found that it didn't grind even under acceleration under any gears - so I know that it's not because I'm doing it wrong.

Any advice? I remember when I used to look at used cars all the time, I always wanted a Nissan 3.5 and a manual - be it an Altima, Maxima, or 350z - but I just about gave up since they were out of my price range, had 200k+ miles (And sometimes still out of my price range), or just flat out were no where to be found. Never thought I'd actually own one, so I'm just so happy to have found one. To be honest, as much as I love this car I'd like even more to have a 6th gen with a manual. I like the Altima SE-R and 350z as well, but insurance would probably put a hamper on that last one at my age.

Also any tips from you seasoned clutch drivers so I can prevent my other syncrhos from going out early? Actually, how long do synchronizers last in a transmission? I'm sure driving style contributes to early wear out, so no doubt in my Maxima's past someone probably drove it a bit hard from time to time (Makes sense since 3rd and 5th gears are the gears I could see someone slamming into the hardest). Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

 

I wouldnt replace just one synchro if i were you. You might as well get a rebuild kit and do all the bearings and synchros since you are going to be in there already. But you could just change your gear oil. That will help. It doesnt sound like its bad the way you describe it.

 

you are correct that replacing a synchro constitutes a transmission rebuild. 'transmission rebuild' is a vague term that people use, but to replace a synchro you have to take the transmission like 90% apart and then put it back together. how many parts you replace once you are inside the transmission depends upon their condition, your funds, the honesty and recommendation of your rebuilder, etc. regardless of if you replace a single synchro or every synchro, bearing, sleeve, etc, it's still a major undertaking.

depends on your area, labor rate of the shop, if you can get the trans out of the car and just take it to them or if you have to have them remove the trans too, etc, but you could probably be looking at $500 on the low end if you can get it out of the car and take it to them and do the minimum as far as replacing parts, to maybe $1500 on the high end if they have to do everything, replace lots of parts, and they are an expensive shop.

while you've got the trans out of the car, you'd want to consider if it makes sense to do your clutch at the same time.

you could try a different trans oil such as a redline, pennzoil synchromesh, etc to see if that reduces the grinding. it might help or it might not. also double clutching will significantly reduce grinding, some would consider it to make shifting more of a chore though.

 

Replace your gear oil regularly to make your synchros last, like every 1.5 years. On 4th gen Maximas like mine, they take GL-4 gear oil only. GL-5 fluid will eat the brass synchros. Check what you need for your 5.5 gen 6 speed manual, and stay away from those GL-4-5-6 compatible fluids. Whatever the one you need, stick to that grade only.

As suggested earlier, double clutching will help the synchros last, but is an incredible chore. Takes the fun out of driving stick.

The grinding could also be due to not pushing the clutch all the way out, and that could be due to the clutch being nearly worn out.

My car went to 192K miles before the clutch was replaced just in the past month. When it was dying, it was really dying. The throw-out bearing would whistle so loud that you could hear it in the mountains far away lol. Plus, I didn't realize this until afterthe change, but a tired worn out clutch does make pedal effort heavier. I guess those "splines" have to push from an ever increasing, and more difficult angle to dis-engage the clutch as it wears out.

Now with my new clutch, gear engagement is nearly as smooth and effortless as a Honda.

 

What do yall mean by double clutching? Same as rev matching?

 

I have the same problem shifting into 5th gear. Although I have an 01 5speed I'm pretty sure it's also the synchro. Double clutching as in releasing the clutch pedal in neutral and then depressing it again to move from neutral to 5th completely resolved the problem. Unfortunately it is difficult to shift quickly in this manner.