Check your lower control arm ball joint. I have had that kind of noise for a long time. I had a number of folks check out the noise but no one was able to identify the source. So, I started with new struts and mounts, and new swaybar links. The car handles better but the noise remained. I finally had a mechanic in Chicago check the longer control arm ball joint. He was able to use a large screw-driver to pry on the ball joint, and it moved about 1/4 inch. The manual says that there should be ZERO vertical play.

I have new control arms, and am waiting for a little bit of warm weather to change them. I will post an update after I change the LCA's.

 

Well I replaced my left side LCA tonight and it got rid of one sound, but not the major one. Will be checking the right side again soon I suppose since the other nouse is louder/more persistent now

 

Check/replace out your passenger side engine mount!

It has a tendency to fail on these cars, and when it does, it generates a good clunk. Do it first because it's not expensive to fix; I got mine from RockAuto.com (Anchor part #9031, now $26.89, reduced from $47 I payed for it last year).

BTW, it's not easy to tell that the mount failed - you have to take it out. My mechanic felt that my mount is OK, and only replaced it after I forced him to (thanks to feedback from these forums). Repeat: do not replace any other suspension components until you check the passenger side mount. Guess who has learned this the hard way ..... I spent over $1500 replacing most of front suspension which wasn't the major source of my clunking noise.

 

I had both of my LCA's, and outer tie-rod ends replaced, and that clunking noise remains. The next thing on the list is the passenger side engine mount, then the front mount, which I KNOW is bad as well.

I have to say that the car handles so much better with the LCA's and tie-rods ends replaced!

QUESTION on the mount replacement. Was that an easy, one man job?

 

Yes, all motor mounts can be one-man DIY.

 

I will take off my wheel some time soon and check for any OBVIOUS play just to be sure. My engine barely moves even when I floor it, but I supppose it could still be failing? Would you say its easy to replace the mount? I dont want to start it and not be able to finish. It took me about 4.5 hours to replace my LCA even with the help of a friend. The thing was rusted on there so well that it barely came off. I didnt have the tools to cut it off. My point is, other than that, I have no experience with mechanical replacements on cars..im pretty handy though and I suppose any tools I dont have could be borrowed or bought.

 

Hardest part about changing the passenger mount is getting the engine to the right height to line everything up. Floor jack helps.

 

My mechanic replaced my right engine mount in less than 20 minutes.

You can do it yourself: the FSM recommends using a second jack to support the engine, but I have read (here, on this forum) that many people did it without the 2nd jack. Just look into your engine bay, the mount is right there ........

 

Yup, takes about that long.

Make sure you have socket extensions. And a socket U-joint.

 

I appreciate all of the help!

So jack #1 lifts the car and jack #2 (if necessary )lifts the engine to align the holes for bolts?

 

Yes, that's the idea.

I would lift the front end and use two jackstands to support the car. Then, use a 3rd jack (perhaps with a piece of 2x4) to support/align the engine.

 

3 jacks?!! That's silly.

Jack #1 lifts the car. Jackstands hold the car up. Then Jack #1 lifts/aligns the engine.

This is not rocket science.

 

This is what I was implying

I dont even have 3 jacks haha. I actually have ramps too. I assume I could also use those instead of stands and just need a jack for alignment!

 

Wheel has to come off to get to the lower mounting bolt. Ramps wont work.

 

No need for 3 jacks. I suggested 2 jackstands + 1 jack.
You/everybody should have two jackstands. If not, buy a pair at Harbor Freight for $16.99.

 

Hmm. Okay thank you for letting me know.. that wouldve sucked haha

 

I have stands.

Your post said jacks.. maybe you meant jack stands.. but
Jack and jqck stands are two different things regardless...

 

Jesus. I didnt replac3 the LCA... I replaced the sway bar end link**** the noise was gone on the l3ft side but now clunks hard while turning and occasionally on bumps.. poasibly not tight enough?

 

Lol. Yea, not tight enough.

 

Ill report back tomorrow.

 

I tightened it as much as possible today. Drove it round the block without issue.. but we'll see if it comes back while im out tonight. I also noticed the tie rod had a fair amount of play at the end. Nothing major, but felt like it flexes more than it should. Would this make a clunk if failing?

 

I'm about to tackle my suspension. I currently have 225k on my max, do I HAVE to replace the springs, or are they still good? I'm definitely replacing the struts but I'm not interested in purchasing new springs, if I don't have to.

 

Springs do not go bad.

Don't forget about all the other auxiliary parts. Specifically strut mounts and OEM dustboots. Check my 'definitive' thread for all the details.

Where are you located? I do installs for local members in the NJ/NY/CT/PA/DE area.

 

Way down in A-town, Ga that is. I would take you up on that!

 

Had a coupon for a free suspension inspection. Well the main clunking noise that I hadnt been able to fix was due to my strut being blown. On top of that the rears are also blown. For some reason the front right showed no sign of damage but after their inspection fluid is leaking ftom the backside. I was quoted nearly $1400 and $1500 at another place to get new Monroe quick struts all around.. I dont feel that it should be this expensive.. but I may be wrong. I want to buy the parts myself for $500 and do it on my own.. but im intimidated by the fact that it took 6 hours to change the swaybar end link due to corrosion ad rust... im afraid ill get it halfway off and then a bolt will be stuck and ill be screwed. any suggestions?

 

Monroe Quick struts are about $400 for all 4. NO shop in their right mind should be charging a grand for what will be no more than an hour and a half of labor to swap in FULL assemblies. And that's if they take their time. I can do it in less than an hour WITHOUT a lift.

This is definitely a DIY job. I would take that route. Save the money. Or find a shop that will charge a reasonable price - no more than $300 for labor.

Here's some light reading to start researching how to swap the assemblies. Disregard the spring compressor / disassembly/reassembly part. It's just removal and reinstallation of the full assembly.

http://www.shiftice.com/strut_install.html

FYI, Quick struts are OK. Not great. Fine for really basic usage. For approximately the same price you can get GR-2's, with the necessary mounts and boots. Better handling with the KYB's than Monroes, but the tradeoff is the requisite assembly/disassembly for installation.

 

Thats what I figured..and unfortunately I dont get to choose what I get. I wanted to pick up some tein springs and struts to hold them. But since the cars in my fathers name im not allowed to put anything else on. Much appreciate my friend.

 

Very unfortunate

Find a fairer shop though. What they're charging for struts is roughly 30% of the value of the entire car.

 

Ill be quote shopping later on today haha. Ill share what I find. And I know! Even if I had the money.. I wouldnt spend 1700 on an Indiana car with 150k and thats 14 years old and isnt even worth 5 grand.
-_-

I just want to drive my car for a few months without any problems

 

I would call and say:

"I've got monroe quick strut assemblies in hand, brand new in box. All I need is for you to spend 2 hours, put the car on the lift, pull the wheels, swap the full suspension assemblies (NO spring compression/decompression need), put the wheels on, and align."

Then when they give you a price, get their hourly rate, and find out how the F they compute that number. Make them agree this job is max of two hours + whatever $80 alignment costs.

 

Thats a very smart idea. Plus I can try my luck at loosening the bolts up first that way. (No sense in paying someone else if im actually able to do it). I dont know if you might know the answer to this by chance.. but are the struts off a '03 the same as an '01 a local guy has a full set of monroes with 3k and papers to prove it and he only wants like $160 or $180..

 

For that price and your purpose, they will fit. Go for it. By full set, you mean full assemblies, yes? Quick struts?

FYI, the ONLY difference between 00-01 and 02-03 is the ABS line bracket. The line mounts to the strut in diff ways based on the version. VERY minor difference, easily remediated with a zip-tie. The strut/size/etc is all the same.

 

Ahh, perfect thank you!. Ill probably pick up the rears and do them myself.. just got two more quotes. 1500 and 1300
The cheapest for the front is $840.-_- maybe theyre upcharging me because Im younger?..
If it were up to me id buy the full used set and try to put them on myself. But pops thinks ill break the car in the front. I dont have much mechanical experience but really it doesnt seem to me like theres a whole lot that could go wrong. It may be a b**** to get off but regardless.. enough patience and muscle and id be good

 

Sorry to say this, but pops doesn't always know what's right.

If you can do the rears, there is no reason you can't do the fronts. There's full writeups and I've seen complete noobs do assembly swaps and more. Get the full set.

 

I agree with ya 150% ill report back after a final decision is made

 

@OP - swapping the front out isn't that hard.

What I learned...

- Put a blanket, towel or something to protect the CV rubber boot underneath the strut just in case
- Both front tires have to be off the ground
- use the shiftice site for howto guide http://www.shiftice.com/
- wear safety glasses and gloves

 

Both tires MUST be off the ground, AND off the car simultaneously. You cannot just jack up one side, take off the wheel, and leave the other wheel on the ground or on the car while you work on the other side.

- Jack up the entire front, place jackstands on both sides, remove both wheels, then swap assemblies.
- Put wheels back on when both assemblies are swapped.

 

Clunking noise is GONE after replacing the Passenger side engine mount.

Yesterday, I replaced the passenger side engine mount. The replacement process was pretty easy once I was able to break loose the nut that is on the underside of the mount. I was really surpised at how much I had to lift the engine to get the bolt holes to align. It must have been at least 3/4 of an inch.

I inspected the old mount after I removed it, and it was clearly failed, with multiple cracks and significant deformation in the rubber.

After I finished the repair, I took the car for a ride, and drove over the bumps that generate the clunking nosie. It was dead quiet, and the the ride was smoother than before.

Based on how bad that old mount was, I will be replacing the front and rear mounts, as well as the transmission mount.

 

As expected, great job!

Passenger is usually first to go, then rear mount. I've never seen a failed tranny mount, but I usually replace it as a 'good to do' since the others are getting replaced.

 

Congrats on the work and and the resolved issue!