panabiker

I have a 2002 Max with 180k miles. Everything is fine except that I have to pour in a qt. of oil every month (about 1300 miles) . I do oil change myself and don't see any leak or smell any oil burning in the exhaust or see any smoke. Could it still be burning oil when driving? Is it a known issue on this engine?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Has been for a very long time. There are many different opinions. So, use the search and see your options. If you want to keep the car, get a low mileage engine and drop it in. A rebuild is always an option, but IMO, sometimes a bigger pain.

george__

iTrader: (1)

New engine time

ateick

iTrader: (1)

Don't listen to George. He knows nothing. Replacing the engine on a maybe $3000 car is just ridiculous advice. Do some reading. You are not the only one. It is a known issue. Try some different oils. For example lots of Subaru guys use Shell T6 5w-40 because the turbo's tend to burn a lot. They say it cuts the consumption.

Spending 5-10 bucks a month for the next 2 or 3 years seems to make a lot more sense to me than spending $1000+ on an engine swap.

george__

iTrader: (1)

^
But a Gen 5.7 swap would be AWESOME

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...vq35-info.html

car5car

2 possible reasons:
1. Oil rings are stuck.
2. Valve seal.
Check spark plugs. If they are oily, clean them by torch.
Install spark plugs and mark them by paint to know their position. Run engine for a few minutes, remove plugs and check them. If valve seals are bad, plugs will have black on one side, toward exhaust valve.

colt149

iTrader: (1)

My advised , is to install a pcv oil catcher, see this link
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...52205/10002/-1

You need a 3/8 PCV tubing not fuel line tubing, attached the end of the tube to the pcv valve and the other end to the IN of the PCV OIL Catcher. The second tube attached the end to the OUT of the PCV Oil catcher and the other end to the intake manifold. This way you minimized the blow by of oil going to the intake manifold contaminating the fuel thereby lowering the octane level.

JonBlz

iTrader: (11)

When i first got my 02 6 speed I started burning alot of oil checked everything to make sure I didn't have a leak and it turned out my piston rings were done I got my hands on an 05 engine for $300 bucks and slapped it in and I haven't had any oil issues for over 2yrs now

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

End of story if you want to keep the car and not spend much.

silver5andahalf

Does this really help the oil consumption?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

That might help for knocking (spark knock), not for oil consumption.

Though there are advanced systems out there that actually tap into the oil pan and return the blow by oil back to the pan. Little more T&E than I would like to spend, but an

FX35 forums have quite a list of options on this.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

I would disagree with the used engine fix....although cheap..9 times out of ten the used engine is going to drinking oil(vqreality)..so unless your doing the install yourself,you'll spend a lot more on a mechanic for installing and removing engines until you find the good one...hopefully on the first try but if you were that lucky you'll win the lottery and this wouldn't be an issue,

ateick

iTrader: (1)

OP the magic questions for you are:

a) how long to you expect to keep the car?
b) what is your budget to fix the burning issue?

No sense talking engine swap if you are only hanging on short term or don't have the $'s.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

JonBlz, from my research, hasn't won the lottery, and I don't even think he plays. But, maybe he should buy a ticket soon....

Also, mine doesn't burn much oil at all even at 140k. Tuesday's our lotto picks, I know what I'm doing this coming week.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Success stories with a used engine are out there i know...just like aliens and big foot but they just don't show that often.

colt149

iTrader: (1)

PCV oil catcher prevent the blow by oil contaminating the combustion area thereby end result ,engine will run smoother and efficient.less stress to the piston and piston ring. For high mileage VQ35DE, oil consumption is a known problem 2nd to blow by, try to use a high mileage oil 5w/30w in Winter time and 10/30W in Summer. I used BG MOA oil additive during summer time.Every fill up on my 2002 Maxima SE with 110,000 miles , I will empty 2oz of blow by oil on the PCV oil catcher.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

You must be new around here, there are more success stories with used engines than any other option, in all 3 of the 4th, 5th, and 6th gen (VQ's) forums.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

New yes!Some might say. im glad i never had to search the swap threads but I'll start doing so.
With that been said,you can't lead me to believe every(all gen you mentioned) or more than 70% of All swaps worked with the first used engine.To me i think is fair to say thats a successful investment.
On the other hand how much $ difference can it be from 500(on the cheap end low miles) used plus install x2 or 3(hopefully one)rather than 500 used new pistons,rings,cams,etc polished inside out,resurfaced everything and install yourself.?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

This is a Maxima forum, not a Chevelle forum. With that said, most of us use these as a DD and can't afford the downtime of doing a rebuild.

Some have done blue printed/bore/rebuild/pistons/rings, etc, but 98% of those situations documented on here are 100% performance oriented and are obviously not on a DD, or at least most weren't. Deckdout2/Ceffy/Dandy/BigDogJonx/TurboS13 to name a few.

But, recenlty, memnbers have shown that they can make as much or in most cases more than those full on builds have produced by using a used A35 engine. But that's besides the point of this thread.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Precisely^^^ she's my dd as well and drinks oil like a baby goat does milk.I'm giving the op another option.buy it used reman and install when ready those are my plans.
I even read the mother of all piggyback thread twice. yet again another topic.

SicOne

mine is the pan, im sure im burning with 210K and it has been for the last 70K that Ive known the car. Another thing is the oil cooler seal behind the filter. also the rear valve cover(check the coil pack that you can get to without removing intake) I would deal with a quart every 1300. I just add half a quart about every 300. keep oil in her and she will continue to run. New engine is not necessary. just use trip B as a add oil indicator

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Since we're here, I've manged to add over 5% better fuel economy using the SAFCII.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Nice since op never came back I'll say it.Can't wait till i get that far.
Im torn between
1.eu+Lc1+aux box
2.eu+AEM uego

SicOne

I am buying one of these. How did you manage this?

off topic I know but im intrigued considering im getting 15 mpg average.

LabbRat

Sorry for bein such a newbie, just tryin to learn about these motors, because I think my "new" 03 might have a oil burning problem, but what do these abbreviations and accronyms mean?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Ahh ... hmmmm , in an attempt not to confuse you, those acronyms have nothing to do with oil consumption. And the reason being is because we have totally veered the direction of this thread.

The 4" MAF and 440cc injectors needed lot's of conditioning, but I had a lean condition at 30% throttle, and about 2500-2700 RPM, in order to compensate for this, I added fuel at that area, but this caused a rich condition between 1800-2300. So, I just changed throttle points, and left the RPM points alone.

Being that I spend a lot of my time cruising at that RPM (90mi round trip to/fro work), this worked out fantastic, obviously. I'm on my 2nd tank with the same result (+/- 0.2 MPG).

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Will pm you with a question...

panabiker

I am the OP. Sorry I was busy today because I was snowed in yesterday. Thanks to all those who replied.

Regarding the questions some of you asked, I don't have intend to put more than a few hundred $ for this particular problem on a 180k+ mile car. I am ok with adding 1 qt of oil a month. I also have a newer Murano but decided to keep driving the Max because the gas mileage is better and because it feels more powerful and more nimble than the Murano.

It just puzzles me where the oil goes. If the leak is from the #5 spark plug area, or the oil cooler, wouldn't I see some dripping of oil, on the driveway? I don't. So does that point to burning rather than leaking? I assume burning is caused by the internal problem that only rebuild or replace can solve. If that's the case then I will just add oil until it get too hungry.

I will do a more thorough check to find the leak in the rear spark plug area. In fact, I never changed the spark plugs since I bought new because it's a pain to do it and it doesn't seem to have any ignition, rough idle problems. So maybe this will force me to do the plug change. But I still have to wait till the weather is a little warmer.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Yes im doing the same. just keep the oil at a good level and at that rate no oil change needed since your burning perfectly good oil,just the filter after a few months.jkjk