5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Really odd...need input.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-07-2014, 08:49 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jsmith24's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 314
Really odd...need input.

Hi all,

I’ve got a weird issue. I’ll lay out the particulars, then ask my question(s).

1. I park outside.
2. The temperatures here rarely get very low.
3. Over the last two to three weeks, we’ve had temperatures as low as 3 degrees Fahrenheit; for several days (almost a week?) it didn’t get above freezing.
4. One morning, after our 2nd day and night of our “deep freeze”, I started the car and the battery and brake lights came on. I hadn’t started the car for two days.
5. I immediately got out, checked the belt (which is only three months old), and all was well. I figured the cold had taken off some of the charge. I drove for about 10 minutes and the lights went out.
6. All was well for a day or two, as temps rose above freezing.
7. Now, whenever the temps get below 35 or so, when I start the car first thing in the early morning those lights come on. They always stay on about 10 minutes, regardless of how far or fast I drive.
8. The car ALWAYS fires up first try, good and strong.
9. I had the battery load-tested, the alternator tested, and the starter tested at three different shops, and they all said things were good.
10. The car has 241,000 original owner miles (all me!), but has been well-maintained.

Here were my last test results:
- Battery without car running: 12.78 volts, 683 CCA (out of 750 rated), at 58 degrees.
- Starter draws 10.97 volts for 710 milliseconds at start.
- Alternator output with no load: 14.17 volts
- Alternator output with full load (high beams, fogs, stereo, defrost/AC, full fan, all interior lights on) : 14.06 volts.
- Voltage ripple (average): 34mV

Two of the shops suggested it could be a “bad sensor”.

So my questions are:
1. Does anyone think I have an actual battery or alternator issue?
2. IS there a voltage or charging sensor somewhere that I can replace?
3. What else should I investigate?

Thanks guys. I know I *could* ignore the lights, but that’s just not my thing.

Jack
jsmith24 is offline  
Old 02-07-2014, 08:52 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
iTrader: (51)
 
Fakie J Farkerton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KCK
Posts: 5,192
Your alternator is on its way out more than likely.

You can try to fully charge your battery or bring it in to rule that out, but I still say alternator is going poop.
Fakie J Farkerton is offline  
Old 02-07-2014, 08:56 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jsmith24's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 314
Originally Posted by Fakie J Farkerton
Your alternator is on its way out more than likely.

You can try to fully charge your battery or bring it in to rule that out, but I still say alternator is going poop.
Thanks for the quick reply!

Hmm, if that's true, why would it pass all the tests, make the battery light go away, and have what seems to be a built-in time of 10 minutes?

The battery has been fully charged, and the symptoms return whenever the temps drop below 35-40 degrees.

Thanks!
Jack
jsmith24 is offline  
Old 02-07-2014, 09:24 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
iTrader: (51)
 
Fakie J Farkerton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: KCK
Posts: 5,192
I've seen bad alternators test fine at the store.
Fakie J Farkerton is offline  
Old 02-08-2014, 05:53 AM
  #5  
i1k
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
 
i1k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 92
Originally Posted by jsmith24
Thanks for the quick reply!

Hmm, if that's true, why would it pass all the tests, make the battery light go away, and have what seems to be a built-in time of 10 minutes?

The battery has been fully charged, and the symptoms return whenever the temps drop below 35-40 degrees.

Thanks!
Jack
Low temps add additional stress on the car. Like the previous post alternators can test good on a bench but still be 'bad' when operating in an engine bay. There are enough folks on the org who have had to replace alternators thrice before getting a 'good' one.

The blinking lights point to alternator and/or battery but these two do not operate in isolation. Assuming you checked your alternator belt and tensioned it properly when replacing the alternator. Did you also check your electrical connections making sure they are seated properly and I would remove your ground points clean them and reinstall them with dielectric grease if you have some? This goes for you battery terminals as well.
i1k is offline  
Old 02-08-2014, 06:06 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jsmith24's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 314
Thanks.

I had it tested on the bench and in the running car. All the alternator connections are good, clean, tight...although I did see some corrosion on the battery terminals.

Thanks again!
Jack

Originally Posted by i1k
Low temps add additional stress on the car. Like the previous post alternators can test good on a bench but still be 'bad' when operating in an engine bay. There are enough folks on the org who have had to replace alternators thrice before getting a 'good' one.

The blinking lights point to alternator and/or battery but these two do not operate in isolation. Assuming you checked your alternator belt and tensioned it properly when replacing the alternator. Did you also check your electrical connections making sure they are seated properly and I would remove your ground points clean them and reinstall them with dielectric grease if you have some? This goes for you battery terminals as well.
jsmith24 is offline  
Old 02-18-2014, 05:18 PM
  #7  
Member
 
cjanderson3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ames IA
Posts: 196
Originally Posted by jsmith24
Hi all,

I’ve got a weird issue. I’ll lay out the particulars, then ask my question(s).

1. I park outside.
2. The temperatures here rarely get very low.
3. Over the last two to three weeks, we’ve had temperatures as low as 3 degrees Fahrenheit; for several days (almost a week?) it didn’t get above freezing.
4. One morning, after our 2nd day and night of our “deep freeze”, I started the car and the battery and brake lights came on. I hadn’t started the car for two days.
5. I immediately got out, checked the belt (which is only three months old), and all was well. I figured the cold had taken off some of the charge. I drove for about 10 minutes and the lights went out.
6. All was well for a day or two, as temps rose above freezing.
7. Now, whenever the temps get below 35 or so, when I start the car first thing in the early morning those lights come on. They always stay on about 10 minutes, regardless of how far or fast I drive.
8. The car ALWAYS fires up first try, good and strong.
9. I had the battery load-tested, the alternator tested, and the starter tested at three different shops, and they all said things were good.
10. The car has 241,000 original owner miles (all me!), but has been well-maintained.

Here were my last test results:
- Battery without car running: 12.78 volts, 683 CCA (out of 750 rated), at 58 degrees.
- Starter draws 10.97 volts for 710 milliseconds at start.
- Alternator output with no load: 14.17 volts
- Alternator output with full load (high beams, fogs, stereo, defrost/AC, full fan, all interior lights on) : 14.06 volts.
- Voltage ripple (average): 34mV

Two of the shops suggested it could be a “bad sensor”.

So my questions are:
1. Does anyone think I have an actual battery or alternator issue?
2. IS there a voltage or charging sensor somewhere that I can replace?
3. What else should I investigate?

Thanks guys. I know I *could* ignore the lights, but that’s just not my thing.

Jack
I just bought an 02 6 speed maxima 2 weeks ago and I have the exact same problem (sure wish the scumbag dealer would've disclosed this issue). Anyway, the alternator might make sense, but if that's the case why does the brake light come on right along side the battery light? They are both on when the car is cold, and like the original post, both go out after about 10 minutes of driving. Can anyone shed some light on this? Is this something obvious I'm missing because I'm new to the 5th gen maxima?
cjanderson3 is offline  
Old 02-18-2014, 05:43 PM
  #8  
Member
 
venturous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Johnson City, TN
Posts: 240
Check the brake fluid level. You may be right at the point low that with the colder temps and everything shrinking that it is causing the brake light to come on. After you use them a few minutes and everything expands, the light quits coming on.
venturous is offline  
Old 02-18-2014, 06:57 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
DjHackStyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bronx, NY
Posts: 973
Originally Posted by jsmith24
Thanks.

I had it tested on the bench and in the running car. All the alternator connections are good, clean, tight...although I did see some corrosion on the battery terminals.

Thanks again!
Jack
I too had my battery and alternator tested at autozone yet my battery would die after 15 minutes of radio and my tail lights and interior lights would be dimming at red lights and would get brighter once i reved the engine and both items passed the autozone test, guess what a new alternator and battery fixed both issues, those tests are not 100% in my opnion.
DjHackStyle is offline  
Old 02-18-2014, 08:40 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
King_Ten_Ahead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 684
Originally Posted by cjanderson3

I just bought an 02 6 speed maxima 2 weeks ago and I have the exact same problem (sure wish the scumbag dealer would've disclosed this issue). Anyway, the alternator might make sense, but if that's the case why does the brake light come on right along side the battery light? They are both on when the car is cold, and like the original post, both go out after about 10 minutes of driving. Can anyone shed some light on this? Is this something obvious I'm missing because I'm new to the 5th gen maxima?
The two lights coming on together indicate a failing alternator.

As for the original question. My lights kept coming on randomly and going off. I never had it tested, but it went off and didnt come on for 2 weeks! Problem solved? Of course not!! The alternator went out on a first date and left us stranded, and left me looking like an idiot.

Ive also heard of alternators being bad even after good test results.
King_Ten_Ahead is offline  
Old 02-19-2014, 05:59 AM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
TallTom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,799
Clean your ground contacts first and if it doesn't improve, replace the alternator.
TallTom is offline  
Old 02-19-2014, 07:21 AM
  #12  
Da Roller Coaster!
iTrader: (15)
 
foodmanry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 3,914
In my experience I had to replace my alternator two times within the same month. The first shop that replaced it would not do it again even though my Maxima showed the same symptoms. A few weeks later I took it to another shop and they replaced the alternator and no more issues.

Needless to say I don't go to the first shop anymore...it was Firestone, FYI.
foodmanry is offline  
Old 03-16-2014, 06:34 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jsmith24's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 314
Solved...you guys were right, it was the alternator.

Just had to wait till it finally died to make sure.

Jack
jsmith24 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MAXSE5SPD
General Maxima Discussion
33
09-17-2022 04:00 AM
Robert Schneeweis
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
31
01-11-2017 06:47 PM
catalinvint
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
2
09-16-2015 07:48 PM
Bonka
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
2
09-14-2015 11:18 PM
erictown
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
8
08-20-2015 08:01 AM



Quick Reply: Really odd...need input.



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:09 AM.