Really odd...need input.
#1
Really odd...need input.
Hi all,
I’ve got a weird issue. I’ll lay out the particulars, then ask my question(s).
1. I park outside.
2. The temperatures here rarely get very low.
3. Over the last two to three weeks, we’ve had temperatures as low as 3 degrees Fahrenheit; for several days (almost a week?) it didn’t get above freezing.
4. One morning, after our 2nd day and night of our “deep freeze”, I started the car and the battery and brake lights came on. I hadn’t started the car for two days.
5. I immediately got out, checked the belt (which is only three months old), and all was well. I figured the cold had taken off some of the charge. I drove for about 10 minutes and the lights went out.
6. All was well for a day or two, as temps rose above freezing.
7. Now, whenever the temps get below 35 or so, when I start the car first thing in the early morning those lights come on. They always stay on about 10 minutes, regardless of how far or fast I drive.
8. The car ALWAYS fires up first try, good and strong.
9. I had the battery load-tested, the alternator tested, and the starter tested at three different shops, and they all said things were good.
10. The car has 241,000 original owner miles (all me!), but has been well-maintained.
Here were my last test results:
- Battery without car running: 12.78 volts, 683 CCA (out of 750 rated), at 58 degrees.
- Starter draws 10.97 volts for 710 milliseconds at start.
- Alternator output with no load: 14.17 volts
- Alternator output with full load (high beams, fogs, stereo, defrost/AC, full fan, all interior lights on) : 14.06 volts.
- Voltage ripple (average): 34mV
Two of the shops suggested it could be a “bad sensor”.
So my questions are:
1. Does anyone think I have an actual battery or alternator issue?
2. IS there a voltage or charging sensor somewhere that I can replace?
3. What else should I investigate?
Thanks guys. I know I *could* ignore the lights, but that’s just not my thing.
Jack
I’ve got a weird issue. I’ll lay out the particulars, then ask my question(s).
1. I park outside.
2. The temperatures here rarely get very low.
3. Over the last two to three weeks, we’ve had temperatures as low as 3 degrees Fahrenheit; for several days (almost a week?) it didn’t get above freezing.
4. One morning, after our 2nd day and night of our “deep freeze”, I started the car and the battery and brake lights came on. I hadn’t started the car for two days.
5. I immediately got out, checked the belt (which is only three months old), and all was well. I figured the cold had taken off some of the charge. I drove for about 10 minutes and the lights went out.
6. All was well for a day or two, as temps rose above freezing.
7. Now, whenever the temps get below 35 or so, when I start the car first thing in the early morning those lights come on. They always stay on about 10 minutes, regardless of how far or fast I drive.
8. The car ALWAYS fires up first try, good and strong.
9. I had the battery load-tested, the alternator tested, and the starter tested at three different shops, and they all said things were good.
10. The car has 241,000 original owner miles (all me!), but has been well-maintained.
Here were my last test results:
- Battery without car running: 12.78 volts, 683 CCA (out of 750 rated), at 58 degrees.
- Starter draws 10.97 volts for 710 milliseconds at start.
- Alternator output with no load: 14.17 volts
- Alternator output with full load (high beams, fogs, stereo, defrost/AC, full fan, all interior lights on) : 14.06 volts.
- Voltage ripple (average): 34mV
Two of the shops suggested it could be a “bad sensor”.
So my questions are:
1. Does anyone think I have an actual battery or alternator issue?
2. IS there a voltage or charging sensor somewhere that I can replace?
3. What else should I investigate?
Thanks guys. I know I *could* ignore the lights, but that’s just not my thing.
Jack
#3
Hmm, if that's true, why would it pass all the tests, make the battery light go away, and have what seems to be a built-in time of 10 minutes?
The battery has been fully charged, and the symptoms return whenever the temps drop below 35-40 degrees.
Thanks!
Jack
#5
Thanks for the quick reply!
Hmm, if that's true, why would it pass all the tests, make the battery light go away, and have what seems to be a built-in time of 10 minutes?
The battery has been fully charged, and the symptoms return whenever the temps drop below 35-40 degrees.
Thanks!
Jack
Hmm, if that's true, why would it pass all the tests, make the battery light go away, and have what seems to be a built-in time of 10 minutes?
The battery has been fully charged, and the symptoms return whenever the temps drop below 35-40 degrees.
Thanks!
Jack
The blinking lights point to alternator and/or battery but these two do not operate in isolation. Assuming you checked your alternator belt and tensioned it properly when replacing the alternator. Did you also check your electrical connections making sure they are seated properly and I would remove your ground points clean them and reinstall them with dielectric grease if you have some? This goes for you battery terminals as well.
#6
Thanks.
I had it tested on the bench and in the running car. All the alternator connections are good, clean, tight...although I did see some corrosion on the battery terminals.
Thanks again!
Jack
I had it tested on the bench and in the running car. All the alternator connections are good, clean, tight...although I did see some corrosion on the battery terminals.
Thanks again!
Jack
Low temps add additional stress on the car. Like the previous post alternators can test good on a bench but still be 'bad' when operating in an engine bay. There are enough folks on the org who have had to replace alternators thrice before getting a 'good' one.
The blinking lights point to alternator and/or battery but these two do not operate in isolation. Assuming you checked your alternator belt and tensioned it properly when replacing the alternator. Did you also check your electrical connections making sure they are seated properly and I would remove your ground points clean them and reinstall them with dielectric grease if you have some? This goes for you battery terminals as well.
The blinking lights point to alternator and/or battery but these two do not operate in isolation. Assuming you checked your alternator belt and tensioned it properly when replacing the alternator. Did you also check your electrical connections making sure they are seated properly and I would remove your ground points clean them and reinstall them with dielectric grease if you have some? This goes for you battery terminals as well.
#7
Hi all,
I’ve got a weird issue. I’ll lay out the particulars, then ask my question(s).
1. I park outside.
2. The temperatures here rarely get very low.
3. Over the last two to three weeks, we’ve had temperatures as low as 3 degrees Fahrenheit; for several days (almost a week?) it didn’t get above freezing.
4. One morning, after our 2nd day and night of our “deep freeze”, I started the car and the battery and brake lights came on. I hadn’t started the car for two days.
5. I immediately got out, checked the belt (which is only three months old), and all was well. I figured the cold had taken off some of the charge. I drove for about 10 minutes and the lights went out.
6. All was well for a day or two, as temps rose above freezing.
7. Now, whenever the temps get below 35 or so, when I start the car first thing in the early morning those lights come on. They always stay on about 10 minutes, regardless of how far or fast I drive.
8. The car ALWAYS fires up first try, good and strong.
9. I had the battery load-tested, the alternator tested, and the starter tested at three different shops, and they all said things were good.
10. The car has 241,000 original owner miles (all me!), but has been well-maintained.
Here were my last test results:
- Battery without car running: 12.78 volts, 683 CCA (out of 750 rated), at 58 degrees.
- Starter draws 10.97 volts for 710 milliseconds at start.
- Alternator output with no load: 14.17 volts
- Alternator output with full load (high beams, fogs, stereo, defrost/AC, full fan, all interior lights on) : 14.06 volts.
- Voltage ripple (average): 34mV
Two of the shops suggested it could be a “bad sensor”.
So my questions are:
1. Does anyone think I have an actual battery or alternator issue?
2. IS there a voltage or charging sensor somewhere that I can replace?
3. What else should I investigate?
Thanks guys. I know I *could* ignore the lights, but that’s just not my thing.
Jack
I’ve got a weird issue. I’ll lay out the particulars, then ask my question(s).
1. I park outside.
2. The temperatures here rarely get very low.
3. Over the last two to three weeks, we’ve had temperatures as low as 3 degrees Fahrenheit; for several days (almost a week?) it didn’t get above freezing.
4. One morning, after our 2nd day and night of our “deep freeze”, I started the car and the battery and brake lights came on. I hadn’t started the car for two days.
5. I immediately got out, checked the belt (which is only three months old), and all was well. I figured the cold had taken off some of the charge. I drove for about 10 minutes and the lights went out.
6. All was well for a day or two, as temps rose above freezing.
7. Now, whenever the temps get below 35 or so, when I start the car first thing in the early morning those lights come on. They always stay on about 10 minutes, regardless of how far or fast I drive.
8. The car ALWAYS fires up first try, good and strong.
9. I had the battery load-tested, the alternator tested, and the starter tested at three different shops, and they all said things were good.
10. The car has 241,000 original owner miles (all me!), but has been well-maintained.
Here were my last test results:
- Battery without car running: 12.78 volts, 683 CCA (out of 750 rated), at 58 degrees.
- Starter draws 10.97 volts for 710 milliseconds at start.
- Alternator output with no load: 14.17 volts
- Alternator output with full load (high beams, fogs, stereo, defrost/AC, full fan, all interior lights on) : 14.06 volts.
- Voltage ripple (average): 34mV
Two of the shops suggested it could be a “bad sensor”.
So my questions are:
1. Does anyone think I have an actual battery or alternator issue?
2. IS there a voltage or charging sensor somewhere that I can replace?
3. What else should I investigate?
Thanks guys. I know I *could* ignore the lights, but that’s just not my thing.
Jack
#8
Check the brake fluid level. You may be right at the point low that with the colder temps and everything shrinking that it is causing the brake light to come on. After you use them a few minutes and everything expands, the light quits coming on.
#9
I too had my battery and alternator tested at autozone yet my battery would die after 15 minutes of radio and my tail lights and interior lights would be dimming at red lights and would get brighter once i reved the engine and both items passed the autozone test, guess what a new alternator and battery fixed both issues, those tests are not 100% in my opnion.
#10
I just bought an 02 6 speed maxima 2 weeks ago and I have the exact same problem (sure wish the scumbag dealer would've disclosed this issue). Anyway, the alternator might make sense, but if that's the case why does the brake light come on right along side the battery light? They are both on when the car is cold, and like the original post, both go out after about 10 minutes of driving. Can anyone shed some light on this? Is this something obvious I'm missing because I'm new to the 5th gen maxima?
As for the original question. My lights kept coming on randomly and going off. I never had it tested, but it went off and didnt come on for 2 weeks! Problem solved? Of course not!! The alternator went out on a first date and left us stranded, and left me looking like an idiot.
Ive also heard of alternators being bad even after good test results.
#12
In my experience I had to replace my alternator two times within the same month. The first shop that replaced it would not do it again even though my Maxima showed the same symptoms. A few weeks later I took it to another shop and they replaced the alternator and no more issues.
Needless to say I don't go to the first shop anymore...it was Firestone, FYI.
Needless to say I don't go to the first shop anymore...it was Firestone, FYI.
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catalinvint
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
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09-16-2015 07:48 PM