You know you can buy loctite putty or just dip in blue loctite and let it dry in if your that worried

 

Well nuts...my tranny started slipping again this morning. 2nd to 3rd gear only at this point. I checked the fluid level and it was ok, maybe a 1/4 of a quart low.

I doubt it's the solenoids since it has been less than a year since I replaced them. Not showing any codes and there were no residual codes when I used my scanner. Maybe the speed sensor or TCM at this point? I'm trying to find the part number and price for the speed sensor, but can't find it. Anyone have that info?

Cr*p...I just had the axles, hubs, one engine mount, one LCA, and all tires replaced two months ago.

 

^
I learned to just live with it... Even with the transgo kit it does it

 

Yeah, I don't have transgo kit, but I do have the VB mod which is probably why my tranny has lasted this long. I honestly don't think it is a physical wear issue since I had the VB mod since 20,000 miles and been using a tranny cooler synthetic ATF since then. Never got to a point where my ATF was burned or dark red before I dropped the pan or flushed it.

I'm thinking of just dropping the $100 on the speed sensor (revolution sensor) and see if that takes care of it. If not, oh well at this point...it will be $60 to $70 just to drop the pan because of the syn ATF. Might as well go revolution sensor since my ATF is still bright red.

Doesn't look like the TCM as that is more of a 1st to 2nd slip issue.

 

So...really weird, the slipping seems to have stopped the past few days. At worst, it is intermittent.

Any ideas? Maybe something in the fluid or loosened up and clogged?

I'm wondering if should even drop the pan at this point.

 

I wouldn't. I'd wait it out if it's not too annoying. I feel at times I'm in the same boat since it's a bit pricey just to drop the damn pan sometimes.

 

Yeah I hear you...because of the synthetic fluid its about $70 to just drop the pan. I'll wait it out, it doesn't bother me...almost used to it now.

Just hoping my Max can make it till the end of this year....of course, I said that last year.

 

Well, you've done everything you could for that thing to last, and I think it might be an electrical problem because they're not known to tank even when used aggressively with the 3.5L, and all the signs saying it's fine, AT cooler, synthetic fluid and of course the color of he fluid says a lot.

 

Hmm....I wonder if...I ran a ground line from my negative terminal on the battery direct to transmission housing to take care of a starting issue. I wonder if that may be impacting the transmission? I'll disconnect it and see if that impacts the transmission.

My max has shown electrical bugs here and there since the guys that installed the remote start did a crappy job on the wiring. Hmm...

 

This seems pretty common I think. Mine will do this on cold start
It'll have a delayed shift 2-3rd it'll hang at 2,000rpm unless I give it more gas.
but after a bit it'll shift normal.

I wonder why autos are so weak.

 

On cold starts yes it is common in higher mileage. Mine has been happening even after warming up.

 

Dumb question but there isn't any autos from new altimas/maximas that'll work right?

 

New? No. I don't even think the 2k2 and 2k3 auto tranny's fit a 2k or 2k1. However, older models tranny's do fit the 2k and 2k1. I think back to 97, but I don't know for sure. I'm sure someone else can confirm that.

 

you might be able to modify altima auto into maxima

 

Most namely because of the CAN system on the newer models.

 

Re4f04b

 

Updates on Tranny problem??? I got the same problem recently and about to change the solenoids myself, now i'm thinking what if its A ground or electrical thing instead and I'm gonnna waste my $$

 

Any idea on when solenoid a we're last changed? If they are original and you got a lot of miles is change them. You won't know for sure until you do unless you drop the pan and see a bunch of shavings. If the shaving are there it probably isn't the solenoid a.

That's part of the problem...if you drop the pan you commit to the money for the ATF which isn't cheap. And if you still don't fix the issue you drop it again to change the solenoid and that's another chunk of change. That's why I just took the chance on replacing the solenoid when I dropped my pan. I'm glad I did because my pan looked pretty damn clean and my fluid wasn't cooked so I figured it was the solenoids.

 

If you can be without the car for a while consider dropping pan first to see what it looks like. If it's clean and your fluid isn't cooked then it's probably your solenoids. You can order solenoids at that point, but you'll be without the car until you get them in.