tgran07

Hey guys...I have an 02 Nissan Maxima GLE. Just bought it a couple of months ago with about 130,000 miles on it.

I was driving home from work and the last half mile my engine started clicking and there was a noticeable difference when I pressed on the gas; it definitely felt "off" whenever I pressed on the gas, almost like I had a flat tire.

Anyway, I got home and pulled the codes. I got P0301 which is Cylinder 1 Misfiring Detected and some other code for an EVAP leak which I've had since I bought it. Obviously, the P0301 is related to the clicking sound and I even took a video:

So is it just a bad spark plug or is it rod knock? If it's rod knock, am I gonna have to get a whole new engine? Will my car be alright driving 5 miles to the mechanics?

Please help!

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

its fine to drive 5 miles, but i hate to say it that does sound like a bottom end knock. best to get a new engine if it is indeed bottom end knock

tgran07

Damn this was my fear. Appreciate the response. I'm gonna try to get it to the mechanics tomorrow.

Any other opinions on what it could be?

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

You didn't mention anything about oil. You could have easily checked the oil and realized it was low and avoided ruining your engine. Live and learn, sometimes the hard war. Sorry for your loss.

tgran07

The previous owner changed the oil when I got the car. I've only driven ~500 miles since getting the car, so I'm not sure my negligence towards the oil level is the main cause of this issue. I will check the oil level tomorrow morning though when it's light out.

I'm a total car newbie and this is my first car I'm owning so I am learning on the spot.

QueensMAX

change the ignition coil and see what happens.

colt149

iTrader: (1)

Make it a habit, before you drive, open the hood, pull out the dipstick and check the oil level.
VQ35DE engine can last up to 300,000 miles as long as you maintain it and with normal engine oil level (means not underfill or overfill). The best way to check the oil level is to warm the engine to its working temperature, turn off the engine. Wait for 10 minutes, then pull out the dipstick, wipe with a clean rug. reinsert and check the oil level. Change the ignition coil #1 and sparkplug . Change oil, use a high mileage oil 5/30W. If you still have the knock, you need a new engine but if you can hold a master mechanic not a technician, it can be fixed by pulling out the involve rod under the engine. Best of luck

tgran07

It is confirmed rod knock.

I found a motor from a trusted source with a very reasonable price but it's 300 miles away. I want to have it shipped up to me so it can get installed, although if I can somehow get the car down to him he can install it for a total of ~$1500 (including parts, labor, fluids, fees, etc.). Seems like a very good price but that's not counting towing which could be anywhere from $400-$600 or more even, so my number one option is having it shipped up here and paying for installation from a local mechanic.

How much should installation cost to swap motors on average? I got one estimate of $1200 which is too pricey and I'm waiting for a few calls back from other mechanics but should I expect a similar quote from everyone?

Claybob86

iTrader: (3)

I'd expect the cost to be between 12 and 15 labor hours. Actual cost depends on the mechanics rate.

george__

iTrader: (1)

You would be in good position to do some mods with the engine out

tgran07

Any recommendations?

george__

iTrader: (1)

Do you know what car the engine is coming out of?

L_U_D_I_AMaxima

iTrader: (3)

and another 3.5 blown... call me a hater but I really start to dislike the 3.5s... sure more power than the 3.0 but no way in hell I will ever get myself a 5.5 gen maxima... most likely like all of them do it ran low on oil and then guess what happened???
someone hare said "Make it a habit, before you drive, open the hood, pull out the dipstick and check the oil level." no offense but get yourself 3.0 and have an engine you can trust...

george__

iTrader: (1)

^
Aren't the older (newer?) generations okay though?

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Yea well if it burned oil or leaked or whatever 500 miles down the road you don't know that so when you buy a new car you never know what's going on. I bought a nice toyota pickup from a dealer with good maintence documents and guess what, after I did an oil change it spun a bearing. Must've been gunked up and the fresh oil cleaned it out and probably clogged up a crankshaft oil journal. Can't wait to stuff a 5vz/trdsc in there with crawler gears, trd locker, supra rear lsd for the front, etc.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Yea, supposedly. 3.0l just has more metal holding everything together so they tend to be stronger stock. 3.5 is nice, you just gotta rebuild it before you put it in. I just bought one that burned oil according to the previous owner/member. But he hooked me up with everything I wanted including 6spd and all the parts I wanted to make it fit in my 4th gen.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

It is very simple to swap a engine on these cars. You can do it first time in one day, and if you work SLOW then over the weekend. Trust me, you can save $2,000 doing it yourself. Things like this make me want to buy a plane ticket and do it for you and take your $2,000. I (or we) can easily talk you through it.

george__

iTrader: (1)

^
help the OP out with headers while you are there :P

Claybob86

iTrader: (3)

Why dont we just help a fellow org-er get his car up and running instead of trying to spend money that isnt our on mods that dont affect us?

gapboi210

Labor guides call for 16.7 hours. Most shop will probably round that up to 18 hours. Labor rates vary but are generally around the $100 per hour mark. So $1800 in labor. You could probably throw in another $500 pretty quickly for seals, fluids, spark plugs, various hoses, etc.

gapboi210

Really you can easily talk someone through an engine swap?

colt149

iTrader: (1)

Try this company, they are selling remanufactured engine
http://www.jasperengines.com/index.php

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i will never buy a 5.5 gen max, this is like the 6 or 7th one i've seen do this. i had a blue 2002 i was going to buy with 160,000 0n it but it was smoking and leaking oil like crazy. did'nt have that noise tho, get a 95 and you'll be good till 300k plus.

L_U_D_I_AMaxima

iTrader: (3)

My point exactly... I love my vq30 in my 5th gen... aside from the those damn gray dot ignition coils i had to buy and the idle control valve that went bad on me I had 0 issues with the engine what so ever... oil changes every 10K miles with mobil 1 full synthetic and mobil extended performance filter and no worries what so ever... actually I have seen a few vq30 engine will well over 400K all stock and original... there is member here with a 2000 SE that just broke almost 415K on his maxima...

1992maximase30

^^ I agree with you. I'm not one to brag and not happy about it. But its been a minute since I changed the oil on my 3.0 and reason being in and out of the hospital and between work and family.

george__

iTrader: (1)

Maybe spend it on a new car

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

That sounds terrible.

Mine sees 7100 RPM at least daily and has 143k, oil changes every 10-12k, add a quart every 3-4k and has been a solid engine/car. Just as solid as my 95.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

proof!!!!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

You might have misread, but 95 = 03 for reliability. I have both, I can attest. 03 > 95 as far as everything else.